I’ve always had a fascination with argyle, but I’ve never knit it because I have an aversion to intarsia. In comes the Textured Argyle Vest: the best of both worlds! It’s an argyle pattern, but it’s all texture, no intarsia! The combination of my hand-dyed yarn in the Into the Woods colorway with the argyle texture really reminds me of the forest, which I love. However, the argyle pattern is subtle, so if you want something more bold, go for the Textured Diamond Vest, knit in Knit Picks Main Line. Both vests are knit bottom-up in the round with feminine waist shaping and overlapping square ribbed shawl collars. At the neckline and armholes the vests are divided into three sections: left front, right front, and back, which are worked separately and then grafted together at the shoulders. They’re a quick knit and great to toss on over a crew-neck or a long-sleeved shirt.
XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL)
Finished Bust Size 28.5 (32, 35.5, 39, 42.5, 46.25, 49.75, 53.25)” to fit bust 30 (32, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54)
Shown in size 35.5”
Textured Argyle Vest: Fiber Fiend Yumm (100% fine wool; 250 yards [229 meters]/125g): Into the Woodlands, 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins
Textured Diamond Vest (pictured): Knit Picks Main Line (75% pima cotton, 25% merino wool; 82 yards [75 meters]/50g]: Dusty Lavender, 5 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) balls
Size US #8 (5mm): double-pointed and 29-inch circular
18 sts and 26 rows = 4 “ in argyle or diamond texture pattern
Stitch markers of two different colors, waste yarn or stitch holder, tapestry needle
For the Argyle Texture Chart and Diamond Pattern Chart, use the numbers on the right side when knitting in the round and use the numbers alternating left and right when knitting back and forth.
To make the Textured Argyle Vest, use the Argyle Texture Chart and to make the Diamond Vest, use the Diamond Pattern Chart.
CO 128 (144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240) sts using circular needle. Place marker and join, being careful not to twist. Work in k1 p1 ribbing until piece measures 2”, placing a different colored marker after working 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120) sts on the last rnd worked. Work the Argyle Texture Chart or Diamond Pattern Chart 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) times around, decreasing every third rnd 9 times; 92 (108, 124, 140, 156, 172, 188, 204) sts remain.
Decrease rnd: Read this entire section before decreasing. Work one st in pattern, decrease one st in pattern, work until 3 sts before m, decrease one st in pattern, work one st in pattern, sl m, work one st in pattern, decrease one st in pattern, work until 3 sts before end of rnd, decrease one st in pattern, work one st in pattern.
Determining which type of decrease to work
When working a decrease after a marker, if the st 2 sts in on the chart is a knit, work a ssk. If that st is a purl, work a p2tog.
When working a decrease before a marker, if the next st on the chart is a knit, work a k2tog. If that st is a purl, work a p2tog.
Note: After rnd 3, read the sts as they lie at the sides of the sweater to see how to work the next rnd of the pattern because you won’t have a whole pattern repeat to work with anymore. Shorten the stitch pattern before and after each stitch marker with each decrease. After the waist you’re going to add those sts back in with increases. The front left decrease chart for the Textured Argyle Vest has been provided as an example for how to work the decreases in pattern. For sizes XS, M, 1X, and 3X, the pattern chart will be split in half across the right side marker, which might complicate things a bit. Just look at the sts below and work new sts as you think they should look according to the chart. After decreasing 9 times, it’s time to start the bust increases.
When working an increase rnd, count out the number of sts you’ve decreased, subtract one, and start the rnd with that st in the chart (e.g. on the first inc. rnd. work the 8th st in the chart as the first st in the rnd), m1L and skip a st in the chart, work across until 1 st before mkr, m1R, skip 1 st in the chart, work one, sl m, add one st back into pattern and work it, m1L and skip a st in the chart, work until 1 st before end of rnd, m1R, skip a st in the chart, work 1 st.
XXS: Inc. every other rnd 7 times, then every rnd twice; 128 sts.
XS: Inc. every other rnd 9 times; 144 sts.
S: Inc. every 3rd rnd 2 times, then every other rnd 7 times; 160 sts.
M: Inc. every 3rd rnd 3 times, then every other rnd 6 times; 176 sts.
L: Inc. every 3rd rnd 5 times, then every other rnd 4 times; 192 sts.
1X: Inc. every 3rd rnd 5 times, then every other rnd 4 times. Work 1 rnd; 208 sts.
2X: Inc. every 3rd rnd 8 times, then every other rnd once; 224 sts.
3X: Inc. every 3rd rnd 5 times, then every other rnd 4 times. Work 1 rnd; 240 sts.
On the last rnd you work, work 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56) sts, pm denoting start of V neck, work to end of rnd.
Armholes and V-Neck
Read entire section before proceeding.
V-neck shaping begins before armhole shaping in some sizes. Work evenly in pattern until piece measures 12.5(12.5, 12.5, 12.25, 12.25, 12.25, 12.5, 12.5)” from hem before beginning armhole shaping for the different sizes. All sizes will begin v-neck shaping when piece measures 12(12.25, 12.5, 12.75, 13, 13.25, 13.5, 13.25)”. The vest will be divided into three sections: left front, right front, and back, when v-neck shaping and armhole shaping begins. Each of the three sections is worked separately and then they are grafted together at the shoulders when complete. Once you start working the pieces separately you will work back and forth, reading the pattern chart back and forth. You will have to account for the bound-off stitches when figuring out where in the pattern to start the row after you’ve bound off for the armholes and v-neck.
Work until the m you just placed for start of V-neck, bind off 8 sts, work to end of rnd. You will now work left front and right front separately.
Left Front Neck Shaping: every other RS row: work until 3 sts before end of row, k2tog, k1. All WS rows: work in pattern.
Right Front Neck Shaping: every other RS row: K1, ssk, work across. All WS rows: work in pattern.
Work 12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 13) decreases on each side.
The beginning of the rnd starts with the left front of the vest. Before the first rnd of armhole shaping in all sizes: work until 4 sts before the beginning of the rnd. First rnd of armhole shaping in all sizes: work across until 4 sts before mkr, bind off 8 sts, work until end of rnd. You will now work the front and back separately.
XXS: Decrease 1 st at armhole first row and every other row 3 more times. 4 sts decreased.
XS: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 2 times and every other row 3 more times. 5 sts decreased.
S: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 3 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 3 times. 6 sts decreased.
M: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 4 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 5 times. 9 sts decreased.
L: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 7 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 5 times. 12 sts decreased.
1X: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 7 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 6 times. 13 sts decreased.
2X: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 8 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 6 times. 14 sts decreased.
3X: Decrease 1 st at armhole every row 9 times; Decrease 1 st at armhole every other row 6 times. 15 sts decreased.
Continue working each section in pattern until pieces measure 19.5 (19.75, 20, 20.25, 20.5, 20.75, 21, 21.25)”. If you’re getting row gauge, this is 49 (49, 49, 49, 49, 49, 52) rows after beginning v-neck shaping. Place each section’s sts on holder when section is complete.
Graft 8 (11, 14, 15, 16, 19, 22, 24) left front sts to back. Graft 8 (11, 14, 15, 16, 19, 22, 24) right front sts to back. Leave center 32(32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 34) back sts on holder to work collar.
Pick up and knit 50 (52, 54, 58, 64, 70, 76, 80) sts around each armhole. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing until ribbing measures 2”. Bind off in pattern.
With RS facing, pick up and knit 32 sts starting at the right edge (as you wear it) of the bound-off sts at the v-neck and going up the edge of the neckline, knit the held 32 (32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 32, 34) sts along the back, pick up and knit 32 sts around the neckline to the other end of the bound-off sts at the v-neck, leaving the bound-off sts untouched. Work 11 rows in 1 x 1 ribbing. Work 15 sts in pattern, pm, work until 15 sts rem, pm, work to end of row.
Note: To prevent a hole from forming when working short rows, the row after wrapping a stitch, work the wrap together with the wrapped stitch by either picking up the wrap and knitting it together with the wrapped stitch on a RS row or picking it up and purling it together with the wrapped stitch through the back loop on a WS row. For step-by-step instructions please see our short row tutorial.
Work to left marker, w&t. Work to right marker, w&t.
Work to 5 sts before left marker, w&t. Work to 5 sts before right marker, w&t.
Work to 10 sts before left marker, w&t. Work to 10 sts before right marker, w&t.
Work to 15 sts before left marker, w&t. Work to 15 sts before right marker, w&t.
Work to 20 sts before left marker, w&t. Work to 20 sts before right marker, w&t.
Work to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Work 1 more row, working remaining wraps together with wrapped sts.
BO all sts loosely in pattern.
Tack down collar ribbing to bound-off sts at front center of vest, creating an overlap. Weave in ends and block.
About the Designer: Margit Sage of Fiber Fiend
Margit Sage of Fiber Fiend lives in the San Francisco Bay Area with her husband and two energetic dogs. Half-time engineer, half-time knitwear designer and fiber/yarn entrepreneur (see fiberfiend.com/store), Margit chronicles her progress in dyeing, spinning, knitting, and the social politics of pack life at fiberfiend.com/blog.
Pattern and images © 2009 Margit Sage.