This cozy duo was inspired by the ‘Bee Stitch’, in which a super squishy texture is achieved by knitting into the row below. The set also features an off-center chunky cable to catch your eye. Generally speaking, the idea of a Hive Mind is a collective through which to share knowledge and opinions to produce a cooperative intelligence. This notion seems, to me, to define the fiber arts community and the support and inspiration it provides. I wanted to create a chunky cabled hat that stands apart from other designs. When I discovered the Bee Stitch, with its plush and comforting texture, I knew right away that I wanted to use it as the main texture for this set, and ‘Hive Mind’ seemed to be the perfect name for a hat that incorporates the Bee Stitch. Through the development of this design, it has also come to represent my own journey as a designer and the process of overcoming challenges with the help and support of the friends I have made in the yarn-craft world.
20” (51 cm) around the brim.
+/- 330 yards (302 m) of chunky-weight yarn to make both the Hive Mine Hat and Cowl. Shown in madelinetosh Tosh Chunky (100% merino; 165 yards [151 meters]/118 grams): ‘Brickdust’ (3/4 of a skein for the hat – 2 skeins was just enough to make both the hat and the cowl)
US size 10.5 (6.5mm) 16” (40 cm) circular needle and DPNs (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- If you prefer the Magic Loop method to using DPNs, a 36” (92 cm) cable length or longer is recommended
US size 11 (7.5 mm) needle for a loose bind off – optional
15.5 sts and 22 rnds per 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch, worked in the rnd, after blocking
12.5 sts and 16 rnds per 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern stitch, worked in the rnd, after blocking
lh = left hand
rh = right hand
k1b = knit into the row below (see Special Stitches)
c3l (cable 3 left) = slip next 3 sts onto a cn and hold at front of work, k3 sts from lh needle, then 3 sts from cn.
c3r (cable 3 right) = slip next 3 sts onto a cn and hold at back of work, k3 sts from lh needle, then 3 sts from cn.
Knit into the Row Below (K1B): insert RH needle into the center of the st directly below the next st on your LH needle (you’ll be knitting into both the stitch below the next st on your LH needle AND the next stitch on your LH needle). Knit this st (with the st above it), dropping both loops from the LH needle.
The hat is knit in the round, from the brim up. DPNs are used for the crown-shaping decreases. You may use an alternate method (such as Magic Loop) instead.
Using your preferred method (I like the Chinese Waitress method), CO 60 sts onto 16” (40 cm) circular needle. Pm and join for knitting in the rnd, taking care to not twist sts.
*P1, k1* eight times, *p3, k3* twice, p3, *k1, p1* to last st, k1.
Repeat this rnd 9 times more.
M1, *p1, k1* twice, p1, m1, *k1, p1* twice, k1, m1, *p1, k1* twice, p1, m1, k1, pm (this will mark your NEW beg of rnd), *p3, k3* twice, p3, [m1, *k1, p1* twice, k1, m1, *p1, k1* twice, p1] twice, m1, *k1, p1* twice, k1, m1, *p1, k1* twice, rem the first m when you come to it, knit to new marker. (70 sts)
Rnd 2: P3, k3, c3r, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 3: P3, k9, p3, k2, k1b, *k1, k1b; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Rnd 4: P3, k9, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 5: P3, k9, p3, k1, *k1b, k1; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 6: P3, c3l, k3, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: P3, k9, p3, k2, k1b, *k1, k1b; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Rnd 8: P3, k9, p to end of rnd.
Repeat rnds 1 through 8 three times more, then Rnds 1 through 7 one time; for a total of 39 rnds.
Next rnd: P3, k9, p3 *p3tog, p10* four times, p3tog. (60 sts)
Change to DPNs when necessary.
Rnd 1: P2tog, p1, k9, p1, p2tog, *k1, k1b* six times, k3tog, *k1b, k1* six times, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* five times, k1b, k3. (54 sts)
Rnd 2: P2, k3, c3l, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 3: P2tog, k9, p2tog, k2, k1b, *k1, k1b* four times, k3tog, *k1b, k1* five times, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* five times, k3tog. (46 sts)
Rnd 4: P1, k9, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 5: P1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, p1, *k1, k1b* five times, k3tog, *k1b, k1* four times, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* five times. (40 sts)
Rnd 6: P1, sl 2 sts to cn and hold at front, k3 from lh needle, then 2 from cn, k2, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: P1, *k1, k2tog* twice, k1, p1, k2, *k1b, k1* three times, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* three times, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* four times, k1. (34 sts)
Rnd 8: P1, k5, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 9: P1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, *k1, k1b* four times, k3tog, *k1b, k1* twice, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* four times. (28 sts)
Rnd 10: P1, k3, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 11: P1, k3tog, p1, k2, *k1b, k1* twice, k1b, k3tog, k1b, k1, k1b, k3tog, *k1b, k1* three times, k1. (22 sts)
Rnd 12: P1, k1, p to end of rnd.
Rnd 13: *K3tog* twice, k3, *k3tog* twice, k4, k3tog. (12sts)
Rnd 14: P to end of rnd.
Rnd 15: *K3tog* four times. (4 sts)
Break your yarn, leaving a tail about 8” (20 cm) long. Thread your tail onto a tapestry needle and through the remaining live sts. Cinch these sts tightly and secure your tail on the inside of your hat using a tapestry needle.
Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of your work using a tapestry needle. Block lightly before wearing. I recommend wet blocking your hat and letting it dry over a 10” (25 cm) plate to achieve maximum slouch.
About the Designer: Erika Wine
A lifelong Oregonian, Erika passes the time between adventures with yarn in her hands. In addition to constant knitting, she enjoys her family (including her ridiculous bulldog), coffee, loud music, taking pictures, and puns. Her passion is yarn-craft, and she is driven to create patterns that inspire the same in others.