Lace shawls don’t have to be worked in lace weight yarn. The chainette construction of this yarn and the loft of alpaca make for a pretty accessory with the femininity of a lacy shawlette but the warmth you need on a chilly day.
Finished shawlette measures 16.5” or 42cm deep with a 44” or 112cm wingspan
Valley Yarns Peru (84% baby alpaca/8% merino wool/8% nylon; 109 yards [99 meters]/50g): Color number 07 Silver Lake, 2 balls
We thank Webs for their generous yarn support!
Size 7.5mm. Note that there is no US equivalent. If using US sizes, a US 11 (8 mm) is the closest.
4 matching stitch markers – Markers A, darning needle for weaving in ends, you may also wish to use optional 4 further matching stitch markers different from markers A – Markers B
14 sts and 20 rows = 4” [10cm] in St st after wet blocking
12 sts and 18 rows = 4” [10cm] in pattern for Chart C after wet blocking
Please see our standard abbreviations.
pMA – place marker A
slMA – slip marker A
The shawlette uses two full balls of the suggested yarn when worked to pattern gauge. If you cannot get gauge, or if the balls of yarn you have may be a little underweight, you may wish to have a third ball available just in case.
The pattern is meant for experienced or adventurous intermediate knitters. Each chart only shows one half of each row. You should work all chart rows from right to left across the first half of the shawl and then back from left to right on the second half of the row to create a mirror image.
CO 3 sts. K 6 rows.
Next row: K3, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into first purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into second purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into third purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 3 sts from cast-on edge (13 sts)
You will now place markers A.
Next row: K3, pMA, pfb, p2, pMA, p1, pMA, p2, pfb, pMA, k3 (15 sts)
Slip all markers as you come to them.
Row 1: K3, work chart A row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart A row 1 from left to right, k3 (19 sts)
Row 2: K3, work chart A row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart A row 2 from left to right, k3 (21 sts)
Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central st and then from left to right from there to the last marker until all 28 rows of Chart A have been worked. (99 sts)
Row 1: K3, work chart B row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart B row 1 from left to right, k3 (103 sts)
Row 2: K3, work chart B row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart B row 2 from left to right, k3 (105 sts)
Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central stitch and then from left to right from there to the last marker until all 16 rows of Chart B have been worked. (147 sts)
You may wish to place the optional Markers B before the first pattern repeat and after the fifth pattern repeat on each side. All sts outside of the pattern repeat area (i.e. outside of the Markers B) are worked in stocking stitch.
Row 1: K3, work chart C row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart C row 1 from left to right, k3 (151 sts)
Row 2: K3, work chart C row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart C row 2 from left to right, k3 (153 sts)
Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central stitch and then from left to right from there to the last marker A until all 20 rows of Chart C have been worked, removing all markers on last row worked. (207 sts)
As previously mentioned, the shawlette uses almost all of two balls of Valley Peru yarn. If you are substituting yarn, if your tension means your yardage requirements are greater, or if your yarn supply is limited, stop Chart C after any even-numbered row to save yarn.
BO using your preferred stretchy method. I recommend the Russian BO, which is worked as follows.
K2, *sl both sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * across row until all sts have been bound off and only 1 st remains, break yarn, draw through final st and pull tight.
Soak the work thoroughly in tepid water with a little wool wash. Squeeze (don’t wring) excess water out of the work in a towel if necessary. Lay work flat and block evenly to open up the lace patterns.
Allow to dry completely. Weave in ends. Wear and enjoy!
About the Designer: Kirsten McTeer
Kirsten McTeer has been designing knits since 2014 but knitting for as long as she can remember.
She designs accessories, mainly shawls, scarves and socks, and particularly enjoys playing with lace and other stitch patterns.
She lives in London, UK, with her husband and their two sons.