Please see our standard list of abbreviations.
sryo: sl st to right hand needle with yarn in front, then pull yarn over the needle – st looks now as if there are two sts, you are not making a yarn over, you just pull it to the back!
sryo double stitch: This double stitch is always knitted/purled together as one st. Do not make increases!
These socks are worked in the round cuff-down. However, if you prefer to work them toe-up or on two circulars, please, don't hesitate to do so.
If you do a gusset heel and are not opposed to patterned heels, you could work the 26 (28, 30) rows of the heel flap in pattern.
Note: If you use a sock yarn with reinforcement yarn, use the reinforcement on the heel and toe!
This pattern strongly encourages you to play with it and arrive at your perfect sock.
Using the long tail cast on method, CO 60 (64, 70) sts. Distribute evenly over 4 dpns and join to work in the round taking care not to twist, pm. Purl 1 round. Start working from chart on Round 1 and work 5 or 6 pattern repeats ending with last row of chart (or desired length).
Short Row Heel
The short row heel will be worked in stockinette stitch, back and forth, over half the stitches. (If you are familiar with a different short row heel or prefer any other heel – work your prefered heel).
After you have completed your last round on the leg, k 30 (32, 35) sts onto one needle. (You will work heel over these sts) Turn, make a sryo as described above. Put sryo onto spare needle. P 29 (30, 34). Turn, make a sryo as described above. Put sryo onto spare needle. *K to the end of row, turn, make a sryo, put sryo onto spare needle, p to the end of row, turn, make a sryo, put sryo onto spare needle.* Repeat until 10 (10, 11) sts are left on main needle, work one round over all sts 60 (64, 70). Keep pattern continuity on foot sts (those not worked for the heel). K across sts on main needle, k1 from spare needle, *turn, sryo, p across main needle, p one from spare needle, turn, sryo,* k sts of main needle including sryo st (double st worked as one), k1 from spare needle*, turn, sryo, p across main needle, p sryo double st as one, p one from spare needle, turn, sryo,*. Repeat * to * until all sts from spare needles have been worked; 60 (64,70) sts.
(shown in solid colored socks)
Row 1 (RS): K 30 (32, 35) sts onto one needle (sts are from needles 1 & 2), needles 3 & 4 are not worked for heel flap. K 26 (28, 30) rows as follows: sl 1 st, knit to end of row.
Work short rows as fol:
Row 1: K 15 (16, 18) skpsso, k1
Row 2: P 5, p2tog, p1
Row 3: K to 1 st before gap made by previous row, skpsso, k1, turn.
Row 4: P to last st before gap made by previous row, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all heel sts have been worked.
Gusset: rejoin for working in the rnd as foll:
Setup Rnd: With needle 1 knit heel sts, with needle 2 pick up and knit 15 (16, 18) sts along right side of heel flap, work 35 instep sts in pattern on needle 3, with needle 4 pick up 15 (16, 18) sts along left side of heel flap.
Rnd 1: K over all sts, being careful to keep continuity of pattern on needle 3.
Rnd 2 (decrease rnd): On needle 2, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, on needle 3 work instep sts in patt, on needle 4, k1, skpsso, k to end – 2 sts dec.
Repeat these two rnds until 60 (64, 70) sts rem.
Redistribute sts evenly over 4 needles 15 sts per needle (16 sts per needle, 16 sts on needles 1 & 3, 17 sts on needle 2 & 4). Put marker at middle of the heel, this is the beginning of the round. K sts on 1st needle, work in patt over needles 2 and 3, k sts on needle 4. Work in the round until foot is 2” (5 cm) shorter than desired length.
Work either of the following toes or your preferred one.
Size Small - Rnd 1: K2tog at beginning of each needle; 14 sts on each needle
Size Medium - Rnd 1: Work evenly; 16 sts on each needle
Size Large - Rnd 1: K2tog at beginning of needles 1 & 3, needles 3 & 4: k2tog at beginning, k 7, knit 2tog, k to end of needle; 16 sts on each needle.
Note: for the next 21 rounds, when 2 sets of numbers are given they are for S (M and L)
Rnd 2: [K2tog, k5 (6), k2tog, k5 (6)] on each needle
Rnds 3 – 7: K
Rnd 8: [k2tog, k4(5), k2tog, k4(5)] on each needle
Rnds 9 – 12: K
Rnd 13: [K2tog, k3(4), k2tog, k3(4)] on each needle
Rnds 14 – 16: K
Rnd 17: [K2tog, k2(3), k2tog, k2(3)] on each needle
Rnds 18 – 19: K
Rnd 20: [K2tog, k1(2), k2tog, k1(2)] on each needle
Rnd 21: K
Small Size Only
Rnd 22: K2tog
Medium and Large Sizes Only
Rnd 22: [k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1] on each needle
Rnd 23: K
Rnd 24: K2tog
Cut yarn and pull through all 8 sts.
Alternative Band Toe
(not shown in pictures)
Be sure that sts are divided evenly and decrease as follows.
Needles 1 & 3: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Needles 2 & 4: K1, skp, knit to end
Work decs on rows 1, 5, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17. From row 18 onwards work decs every row until 8 sts rem. Cut yarn and pull through all 8 sts.
Weave in all loose ends.