Add a touch of flair to your outfit with this colorful, crescent shaped shawl. Worked in fingering weight yarn, the main body of this shawl is worked from end to end with increases and decreases to make the crescent shape. The lacy border is worked back and forth along the curved edge once the main body is complete.
In The Garden is adjustable in length and depth.
Tutorials
Chain (CH)
Single Crochet (SC)
Double Crochet (DC)
Size
Finished size 27″ deep x 80″ wingspan [68.5 cm deep x 203 cm wingspan]
Yarn
Hazel Knits Artisan (90% merino, 10% nylon; 400 yards [366 meters]/120 grams): Atmosphere (MC), 2 skeins
Miss Babs Yummy 2ply (100% merino; 400 yards [366 meters]/115 grams): Perilous Voyage (CC), 1 skein
Hook
Size US 7 (4.5mm) hook
Notions
tapestry needle
Gauge
16 dcs and 8 rows = 4” [10 cm] after wet blocking.
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
Beg-ch: beginning chain
Ch-sp: space formed by chains
Picot: ch 3, ss to front loop of base stitch
Shell: 5 dc in stitch/space indicated
Sk: skip
Tch: turning chain
Pattern Notes
Turn at the end of every row unless indicated otherwise.
Tch does not count as the first stitch.
To change yarn colors in the Edging section, work the last stitch of the row leaving 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over hook with the new color and pull through both loops on hook. Turn and continue using the new color. Break previous color.
Shawl Instructions
Increase Section
Using MC, ch 5.
Row 1 (RS): 3 dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in last ch.
Row 2: Ch 4, 3 dc in first dc, ch 2, dc in last dc, dc in tch.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in tch.
Row 4: Ch 4, dc in first 3 dc, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, tr in last sc.
Row 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch1-sp, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, shell in ch2-sp] to last 3 dc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 4 dc in tch.
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in first 3 dc, ch 2, [sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2] to last 2 dc, dc in last dc, dc in tch.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] to tch, 4 dc in tch.
Row 8: Ch 4, dc in first 3 dc, [ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc] to last sc, ch 1, tr in sc.
Repeat rows 5 to 8 fourteen more times; 16 shells.
Center Section
Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch1-sp, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, shell in ch2-sp] to last 3 dc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 3 dc in tch.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in 2nd dc, ch 2, [sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2] to last 2 dc, dc in last dc, dc in tch.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] to last ch2-sp, shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in tch.
Row 4: Ch 5, sk 1 dc, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc] to last sc, ch 1, tr in sc.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 three more times.
Decrease Section
Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch1-sp, [sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, shell in ch2-sp] to last 3 dc, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, dc in tch.
Row 2: Ch 4, [sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2] to last 2 dc, dc in last dc, dc in tch.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc] to tch, dc in tch.
Row 4: Ch 4, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, [ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc] to last sc, ch 1, tr in sc.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 fifteen more times; 2 shells.
Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch1-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, dc in tch.
Row 2: Ch 4, sk 2 dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, dc in last dc, dc in tch.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, shell in ch2-sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, dc in tch.
Row 4: Ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc3tog, dc in sc.
Edging
Row 1: Working along the curved edge of the shawl, ch 1, 354 sc to beg-ch (approximately 5 sc for every 2 rows) join CC to last sc.
Row 2: Using CC, ch 3, 2 dc in first sc, (ch 2, sk 2 sc, dc in next 3 sc) to last 3 sc, ch 2, 3 dc in last sc, join MC to last dc; 71 ch-sp.
Row 3: Using MC, ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in ch2-sp, (dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in ch2-sp) to last 2 dc, dc in next 2 dc, dc in tch, join CC to last dc; 429 dc including tch.
Row 4: Using CC, ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, picot, (sc in next 4 dc, picot) to last 2 dc, sc in last 2 dc, sc in tch; 107 picots.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 5, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc) to end; 107 ch5-sp.
Row 6: (Ch 5, sc in ch5-sp) to last sc, ch 2, dc in last sc.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in dc, shell in first sc, (sc in ch5-sp, ch 5, sc in next ch5-sp, shell in next sc) to end, sc in 3rd ch of tch; 54 shells.
Row 8: Ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, (ch 4, sc in ch5-sp, ch 4, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc) to last sc, ch 2, dc in last sc, join MC to last dc; 108 ch-sp including tch.
Row 9: Using MC, ch 3, 2 dc in ch2-sp, dc in sc, (4 dc in ch4-sp, dc in sc) to end, 3 dc in tch, join CC to last dc; 537 dc including tch.
Row 10: Using CC, ch 1, sc in first 2 dc, picot, (sc in next 4 dc, picot) to last 2 dc, sc in last 2 dc, sc in tch; 134 picots.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (ch 5, sk 3 sc, sc in next sc) to end; 134 ch5-sp.
Row 12: Ch 8, sc in ch5-sp, picot, (ch 5, sc in ch5-sp, picot) to last sc, ch 5, dc in last sc; 134 picots.
Row 13: Ch 5, (sc in ch5-sp, ch 5) to end, sc in tch, ch 2, dc in 3rd ch of tch.
Row 14: Ch 1, sc in dc, ch 5, sc in ch5-sp, shell in sc, (sc in ch5-sp, ch 5, sc in next ch 5-sp, shell in next sc) to last ch5-sp, sc in ch5-sp, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of tch; 67 shells.
Row 15: Ch 8, (sc in ch5-sp, ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 5) to last ch5-sp, sc in ch5-sp, ch 5, dc in last sc.
Row 16: Ch 8, (sc in ch5-sp, shell in next sc, sc in next ch 5-sp, ch 5) to tch, sc in 6th ch of tch, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of tch. Do not turn; 68 shells.
Using MC or CC, work along the neck edge of the shawl by working 3 sc in the leg of each dc and each ch-sp, ss to 3rd ch of tch from row 16.
Finishing
Fasten off and break all yarns.
Weave in ends.
Block shawl.
About the Designer: Cheryl Chow
Cheryl admits to being a crafting addict. She can be found knitting, crocheting, spinning, and sewing near Seattle, WA. In her spare time she enjoys being in the outdoors looking for inspiration and taking in the beautiful northwest scenery with her family. More of her patterns can be found on Ravelry.
Hi! Thank you for the beautiful pattern, it’s working up so nicely. I would just like to know where you recommend adding to it for larger size… during the increase/decrease or in the center section?
Awesome! I’m so glad you like it!
If the person you’re making it for is larger as well, I’d say to add it in the center section. That would give good coverage on the back of the person.
I actually found the answer back farther in the comments! Thank you!
Great! And you’re welcome 🙂
I have a different sort of problem than the others. My hands were broken and I can no longer use fine yarns. The least I can do is 4 wt. What issues would I meet if I used an H or I hook and # 4 or #5 weight to make this lovely shawl? I am making shawls for charity and just love this one.
It would work. You’d need more yarn and the weight of the shawl would be heavier. But it would technically work!
I think I made a mistake but I don’t see it. When you have the shawl triangle, should left and right be the same size, or are the a-symetrical? Any tips on where I went wrong?
They should be identical.
I honestly have no idea where you went wrong, but I have a few tips for you.
Given that you’re saying it’s asymmetrical, I suspect that you made the error a while back. If this is true, I would try to visually find where it looks like it IS symmetrical and the go closer to the end to try and find the offending row. Unfortunately, I don’t think there’s a way for you to fix the problem without ripping back to be before the bad row. 🙁
I wish I had some better news for you. But, I wish you tons of luck and good fortune with the next one.
I’m a little confused. When you start the edging do you actually make a chain that has 1354 chains then attach to shawl? Or is the chains attached to the shawl as you are making the chain?
from the designer: Ch1 and then 354 sc along the edge.
Hi. I would like to know where I can get this yarn since doesn’t seems to be on amazon.
It’s def not on Amazon.
You can get the Hazel Knits directly from Hazel Knits, or she has listed retailers here https://www.hazelknits.com/find-a-retailer/. Miss Babs is here https://www.missbabs.com.
They’re fingering weight yarns, so you could also use others too. But, both yarns are beautiful if you get them as well.
This looks so beautiful. Congratulations. I didn’t see the diagram of the pattern. Where can I find it? Thanks.
we don’t have one for this pattern.
I get a triangle shape how is that possible?
It’s actually a crescent, which is a gently-curved triangle. If you look at the schematic or the flatlay pic, it should show you what it actually makes.
I mean the part of row 4 in the edging where it says (sc in next 4 DC, picot) the 4 DC should be 3 DC. I did 4 and it only gave me 85 picots and then 5 dc and the tch left. I changed to (sc in next “3” DC, picot) and it worked out to 107 picots.
I understand that.
But I’m thinking that you might actually be working a picot that USES a sc. Our picot uses NO single crochet.
Said another way, the math works correctly if you use the right picot. We even looked at it again, and this is what we got:
There are 429 dc (including the tch) at the end of row 3.
Row 4 uses 2sc + (4×106) + 3sc = 429 sc and 107 picots
That’s why I’m guessing here and thinking that you’re making a picot that uses a sc. Our picot (above) is this:
Picot: ch 3, ss to front loop of base stitch
The math works out and the instructions are correct. I didn’t want you to think we didn’t read your concern though. Accuracy is a big thing for us!
Row 4 of the edging has a typo. In order to get 107 picots, you have to sc 3 not 4 before the picot.
We’re a bit confused by this.
Are you possibly using a picot that uses a SC? The picot that we’ve indicated here does NOT use any single crochets.
If you don’t use any for the picot, these should work as is. Let me know though?
Maybe I missed the “base stitch” part of the picot is why it worked out different for me. I am not using a sc in the picot, but am going into another stitch I suppose is how I mixed it up. Thank you for your explanation. And the shawl is coming out beautifully. Thank you so much for your time and pattern!
ok. Glad it worked out for you anyway!
To be clear to everyone else making this pattern – the pattern is correct and doesn’t need any changes. The picot *should not* have used up any new stitches. But, Angela found a way to make it work. While her way *will* result it less picots, I believe it will still look beautiful.
And really, making things work even when you’re having an issue is a GREAT skill to have! Kudos to Angela for making it work!
Please help me I did row 7 as it reads but when I get to row 8 I dont have enough dc??
(this is from Cheryl – the designer)
Hi Lisa … I’m assuming you are having trouble with row 8 of the increase section. This row is worked into the shells of row 7. Row 7 should have 14dc the first time it is worked. For row 8 the first 3dc are worked into the first 3dc of the last 4 dc from row 7, skip the next dc from those 4dc and skip the first dc of the next shell, work 3 dc into the center 3 dc of the shell then skip the last dc of that same shell. Keep working the 3dc into the center 3dc of each shell across the row. Hope that helps.
Hi, I really struggle with the first 2 rows as I am cannot figure out how to do a double crochet in the turning chain. Can you please help with more explanations? Thank you
Hey!
You just work the DC right in that chain. You could either do it through the chain or in the hole that the chain creates.
Does that help?