These cables take a bit of extra work, but they’re worth it! Both the 3/1/3 (just called 3) and 4/1/4 (just called 4) LC are worked the same way, so we give you 3 (4) in our instructions below.

You can do these in several different ways, but we prefer to do them using a combination of cabling without a cable needle AND with a cable needle. I know, it’s not my preference either, but IMO this is a good reason to break out a cable needle (or one of our listed alternatives below).

Materials

A cable needle (cn), or even a locking stitch marker or a short DPN. It’s just for 1 stitch.

How to work a 3/1/3 LC

And also, how to work a 4/1/4 LC (but we’ll show you a 3/1/3).

Step 1: Work up to the cables, leaving the working yarn to the back. Slip the first 3 (4) stitches to the RN.

Step 2: Slip the next stitch from the LN onto a cn and hold it to the back.

The next stitches on your LN are for the right-half of the cable.

Step 3: Knit the next 3 (4) stitches on the LN so they’re now on the RN.

Step 4: Knit the center knit stitch from the CN onto the RN.

You now have all the stitches on the RN in this order (going from left to right) center stitch, 3 (4) for the right-half of the cable, 3 (4) for the left-half of the cable.

Step 5: Temporarily remove the first 4 (5) stitches from the RN and hold them in the back.

Step 6: Slip the next 3 (4) stitches from the RN to the LN.

Step 7: Replace the 4 (5) stitches from Step 5 onto the RN.

Step 8: Knit the next 3 (4) stitches on the LN so they’re now on the RN.

You’re done! You’ve now done a 3/1/3 LC! (or a 4/1/4 LC)

Practice makes perfect

I suggest trying this out on a swatch. Start with some knitting that has at least 7 (9) knit stitches. Work a few rows after the cable so that you can really assess what it looks like.

Tip

You may feel that your yarn isn’t taut-enough, but given the twisting of the cables, there’s a good chance that it might be. Regardless, work up a swatch first by using our Practice Makes Perfect above.