Compared to Ones from the Store
If you compare crochet socks to ones you buy in a store, they’ll likely be quite different. But, this doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t make them. You just need to alter your expectations.
Toe-Up or Top-Down?
Crochet socks can be worked in either direction, just like knitted ones.
Top-down starts at the cuff and works toward the toe. It’s easy to try on as you go, so you can get the leg length right. The catch is yarn: you won’t know whether you have enough for the foot until you get there.
Toe-up starts at the toe and works toward the cuff. It’s the better choice when yarn is tight, because you can split the skein in half by weight and keep going on the leg until you run out. (More on that in Yardage, below.)
Either way, the heel is where crochet socks differ most from knitted ones. The short row crochet heel is the most common heel for crochet socks, and it works in both directions.
If the parts of a sock are new to you, start with Anatomy of a Sock.
Choosing Stitches
Socks take more wear than almost anything else you’ll make, so stitch choice matters more than usual.
Dense stitches hold up best. Single crochet and half double crochet make a firm fabric that stands up to wear at the heel and toe.
Back loop only adds stretch. Working in the back loop gives the fabric more give and a ribbed look, which helps with the stretch issue below.
Save tall and lacy stitches for the leg. They look lovely, but open spaces and long posts wear through quickly underfoot. Keep the foot solid.
For cuffs, use post stitch ribbing. It’s the closest crochet gets to knitted ribbing. Try 2×2 post stitch ribbing or 2×3 post stitch ribbing.
Stretch
Crocheted Socks will likely not stretch as much as store-bought socks. You have a few options to help address this though:
- Use a stitch pattern that has greater stretch.
- Compensate for this and make the socks a bit larger than you might otherwise do. They should still have negative ease, but less than you might do on, say, a knitted sock. If you’re not sure about the size, I’d suggest doing 10% less than the circumference of the foot. This is called “negative ease”.
- Be sure not to work it too tightly because doing so will not allow the sock to stretch. Stretch is important if you’re working negative ease and it’s also important for the comfort of the wearer.
Hook Size and Gauge
Most crochet sock patterns call for a smaller hook than the yarn label suggests. The firmer fabric wears longer and feels smoother underfoot.
Just don’t go so small that the fabric loses its give. A sock that can’t stretch won’t make it over your heel.
This is where a gauge swatch earns its keep. Half a stitch per inch can turn into a sock that’s an inch too big or too small around the foot. Swatch in the stitch you’ll use for the foot, and measure it after it’s washed and dried.
Making socks for someone else? Common Sock Sizes has standard measurements to work from.
Thickness
Handmade socks are thicker (in most cases) than store-bought socks. As a general rule of thumb, thicknesses range in this order (from thinnest to thickest):
- Thinnest: Store-bought socks
- Mid-range: Knitted socks
- Thickest: Crocheted socks
Picking a Yarn
Fingering weight sock yarn makes the thinnest crochet socks, which helps since crochet socks run thick. Sport and DK weights work up faster and make cozy house socks.
Look for some nylon in the blend. Nylon adds strength, which is why so many sock yarns are a wool and nylon mix.
Superwash wool can go in the washing machine. That matters for something you’ll wear and wash often.
Yarn for Socks covers fibers and blends in more detail.
Yardage
Most yarn that’s called “sock yarn” is marketed for Knitters. This means that the put-up (the length of yarn in the skein) is often not-enough for crochet socks.
You might come across a yarn that says you can make a pair of socks out of one skein, but this will typically be assuming that you’re knitting that pair of socks. You’ll need more yarn if you’re crocheting the socks.
Or, weigh it, split the skein in half and work them from the toe-up. This way you can use up most of the yarn and avoid using more than half of the yarn for the one sock.
When in Doubt, Buy Extra
As always, refer to the pattern and match both the gauge and the thickness of the yarn. And if in doubt, I suggest that you buy an extra skein of the yarn just to be safe. Depending on the store’s return policy, you might be able to return it, exchange it or even make another pair of socks (likely a shorter pair).
Wearing Crochet Socks
Because crochet socks are thicker, they can feel snug in close-fitting shoes. They’re at their best as house socks, or with roomier shoes and boots.
The heel and the ball of the foot wear thin first. Working those areas in a dense stitch helps them last longer.
Crochet Socks FAQ
Are crochet socks comfortable?
Yes, when they fit. Choose a soft yarn, use a stitch with some stretch, and don’t work too tightly. Lumpy seams and tall stitches underfoot are the usual reasons they’re not.
Can you wear crochet socks with shoes?
You can. They’re thicker than knitted or store-bought socks, so they’re most comfortable in roomier shoes, boots, or slippers.
How much yarn do I need for crochet socks?
More than for knitted socks. A skein labeled “enough for a pair of socks” usually assumes knitting. Check your pattern, and buy an extra skein if you’re not sure.
Are crochet socks warmer than knitted socks?
Usually, yes. Crochet fabric is thicker and denser, so it holds in more warmth.
Ready to Make a Pair?
Put it all together with the Lotus Socks pattern.
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