I cast on this shawl on my travels. I wanted to knit something interesting but still easy and fun that wouldn’t need much concentrating on difficult pattern making. This shawl is relaxing to knit, since most of it is garter stitch, easy enough to work while watching TV or chatting with your friends. This simple but fun design is perfect to showcase some of your favorite variegated yarns from your stash. Aglea is a variant of the Greek name Aglaia, meaning “beauty, splendor”. I received this yarn from my yarn dyer goddess, Lise, from TréLiz Yarns from Greece and wanted to name the shawl with the name that these colorways deserve.
Photographs by Tanu Kallio
Tutorials
Size
One size, wet blocked finished measurements approximately: top edge width (63”/160 cm)/depth from the deepest point 14”/35cm.
Yarn
TréLiz Zeus (100% Superwash Merino; MC (400 yds/366m/100g), Color Name bitch slap, 1 skein, CC (320yds/293m/80g), Color Name Middle Finger, 0.8 skeins
Needles
Size US 4 (3.5 mm): 30” circular
Notions
tapestry needle
Gauge
22 sts/30 rows = 4” [10 cm] in garter stitch (wet blocked swatch).
The exact gauge is not important in this pattern, however different gauge will affect to your yardage! This shawl was knitted with the exact yarn amounts given in the pattern.
Abbreviations
See our standard abbreviations.
cable CO: cable cast on – *insert the RH needle into the next st and knit the st but don’t drop it off from LH needle. Place the st on your RH needle to the LH needle.* Rep *-*.
garter st: knit on RS, knit on WS.
LH: left hand
RH: right hand
sl: slip
SSE: (see our tutorial on the SSE) Slipped st edge worked over 3 sts (note that it is done a bit differently depending on which side of the work you are):
RS rows: k1, sl1 pwise wyif, k1
WS rows: sl1 pwise wyif, k1, sl1 pwise wyif
w&t: wrap and turn (see our tutorial). Short rows can be completed using a number of different techniques. You may choose the technique you prefer. I used this method in this design: Work to the st for the short row to be placed and bring yarn in front of work. Slip the next st from the right needle to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back and slip the st from the left needle back to the right needle. Turn work and bring the yarn to back of work and continue normally. In this design you don’t pick up wraps on short-rows. Garter stitch will hide them nicely.
Notes
This is an asymmetric shawl, worked from side to side and shaped with short-rows to make the knitting interesting. There is a slipped stitch edge (SSE) on the other side and the shawl is bound off with an i-cord BO which continues to the cast on point.
READ BEFORE YOU START
- Do not cut yarn until it is said to cut yarn.
- In this design you don’t pick up wraps on short-rows. Just knit the wrapped st normally as the pattern says.
Directions
Section 1
CO and Set up
MC: CO 5 sts (e.g. long-tail cast on) with size US4/3.5 mm needles. Work flat.
BODY OF THE SHAWL
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, kfb, SSE; 6 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 7 sts.
Row 4 (WS): As row 2.
Rep rows 3 & 44 – 65 more times; 72 sts.
Section 2
Join CC on RS. Work eyelet rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 73 sts .
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep from * to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 74 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn!
SHORT-ROWS SECTION
Switch to MC.
Setup Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 75 sts.
Short-row 1 (WS): SSE, k1, w&t.
Short-row 2 (RS): Kfb, SSE; 76 sts.
Short-row 3 (WS): SSE, k to last w&t, k wrapped st normally, k1, w&t.
Short-row 4 (RS): K to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 77 sts.
Rep rows 3 & 4 – 33 more times; 110 sts.
Next row (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn.
Section 3
Switch to CC. Work eyelet rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 111 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep from * to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 112 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn!
SHORT-ROWS SECTION
Switch to MC.
Setup row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 113 sts.
Short-row 1 (WS): SSE, k1, w&t.
Short-row 2 (RS): Kfb, SSE; 114 sts.
Short-row 3 (WS): SSE, k to last w&t, k wrapped st normally, k1, w&t.
Short-row 4 (RS): K to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 115 sts.
Rep rows 3 & 4 – 52 more times; 167 sts.
Next row (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn!
Section 4
Switch to CC. Work eyelet rows as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 168 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep *-* to last 5 sts, k1, kfb, SSE; 169 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn!
Switch to MC. Work eyelet rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 170 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep *-* to last 5 sts, k1, kfb, SSE; 171 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end. Do not cut yarn!
SHORT-ROWS SECTION
Switch to CC.
Setup Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 172 sts).
Short-row 1 (WS): SSE, k1, w&t.
Short-row 2 (RS): Kfb, SSE; 173 sts.
Short-row 3 (WS): SSE, k to last w&t, k wrapped st normally, k3, w&t.
Short-row 4 (RS): K to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 174 sts.
Rep short-rows 3 & 4 above 40 more times; 214 sts.
Next row (WS): SSE, k to end.
Switch to MC. Work eyelet rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 215 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep *-* to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 216 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end. Cut MC.
Switch to CC. Work eyelet rows, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 217 sts.
Row 2 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyf, *yo, k2tog*, rep from * to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 218 sts.
Row 4 (WS): SSE, k to end.
Next row (RS): Sl1 wyf, k to last 4 sts, kfb, SSE; 219 sts.
Work I-cord BO on WS as follows:
CO 3 sts (e.g. cable CO) in the beginning of left hand needle, *k2, k2tog tbl (one loop of the i-cord and one loop of the shawl), sl 3 sts from right hand needle back to left hand needle, pull working yarn across the back of those 3 sts*, rep from * across the 218 live sts you have.
When you have the last st left without BO (3 sts on needle), continue applied i-cord as follows: **k2, sl1, yo, dip RH needle into the edge of the shawl, pick up & k, pass 2 sts (i.e. the slipped st and yo) over the st you just picked up & k (3 sts), sl sts to LH needle, bring the yarn from back** and rep from ** until across the side edge of the shawl until you have reached the CO edge. K3tog, cut yarn, pull through the final st to secure.
Finishing
Weave in all yarn ends. Let soak in lukewarm water for 20 minutes and wet block and pin the shawl into its measurements as it is in schematic picture.
About the Designer: Meiju KP
Meiju lives in Helsinki, Finland, with her husband and three boys. She has been knitting her whole life and started designing knitwear more seriously 5 years ago. Her patterns has been published in several magazines (Knitscene, Laine, Knitty) in addition to her self published line on Ravelry.
Please explain how to do the SSE – both on WS & RS of work. I’m slipping as if to Purl and on
WS at BOR WYIF, then taking yarn around from front to back and knitting 3rd st
RS at EOR WYIB, then knitting last st.
This doesn’t look right, although I’m just beginning.
It’s up in the abbreviations:
RS rows: k1, sl1 pwise wyif, k1
WS rows: sl1 pwise wyif, k1, sl1 pwise wyif
You should be knitting the SECOND stitch and slipping the third on WS rows.
Does that help clarify?
Yes, thanks! I wasn’t connecting the RS & WS explanations to the SSE. Thank You.
cool!
i just made a change to the formatting of the explanation to try and make it more obvious. let me know if that helps?