Apoorva is a seamless, bottom up kid’s vest, knit in the round with a central lace panel that features the double herringbone mesh stitch. Apoorva is named after my angel baby girl and means “never before”, “unique” or “unprecedented”.

The vest is available in 7 sizes, up to 6 years and requires minimal finishing. All shaping for the armholes and neck is achieved over knitted rounds or rows, without the need to pick up stitches. The smaller sizes (up to 2 years) include shoulder buttons for closure. Apoorva is a quick knit and makes for a great layering garment for babies and kids alike.

And a big thank you to all my test knitters! The pattern is much improved because of all of your input and suggestions!

Size

Finished Chest Size 14 (15.6, 18, 20.4, 22, 23.6, 25.2)” to fit chest 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

Age Preemie (0-6m, 6-12m, 1-2 yrs, 2-3 yrs, 3-4 yrs, 5-6 yrs)

0-1” positive ease recommended.

Yarn

Ganga Taj Mahal (100% superfine merino wool; 118 yards [108 meters]/50 grams): 06 Crayola, 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls

Thanks to Ganga Acrowools for the yarn sponsorship! Or check them out on instagram.

Needles

Size US 7 (4.5 mm): straight and 24” circular

Notions

Removable stitch markers, row counter, scrap yarn or stitch holders, tapestry needle or crochet hook to weave in ends and sew buttons; sewing thread; two 1/2” buttons (required for sizes 14”, 16”, 18”, 20” only),

Gauge

20 sts and 28 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking.

1 patt rep = 1.75” [4.5 cm] in patt st after wet blocking.

Abbreviations

G1, G2, G3, G4 – 4 garter st markers

L1, L2 – 2 lace patt markers

MOR – middle of round

Chart

Double Herringbone Mesh worked over 21 sts (on straight needles)

Row 1 (RS): K2, (yo, ssk) 3 times, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 4 times, yo, k2.

Even Rows 2-12 (WS): P all sts.

Row 3: K3, (yo, ssk) 3 times, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 3 times, yo, k3.

Row 5: K4, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 3 times, yo, k4.

Row 7: K2, k2tog, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2.

Row 9: K1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1.

Row 11: K2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, yo, sk2psso, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk.

Double Herringbone Mesh worked over 21 sts (in the round)

Rnd 1: K2, (yo, ssk) 3 times, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 4 times, yo, k2.

Even Rnds 2-12: K all sts.

Rnd 3: K3, (yo, ssk) 3 times, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 3 times, yo, k3.

Rnd 5: K4, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) 3 times, yo, k4.

Rnd 7: K2, k2tog, yo, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2.

Rnd 9: K1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, sk2psso, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1.

Rnd 11: K2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, yo, sk2psso, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in the round from the bottom up. The lace pattern is worked over 12 rounds or rows. Each size has a different set of pattern repeats to be completed to achieve the specific body or armhole length. I highly recommend using a row counter to keep track of pattern rounds or rows as you knit along.

Other Notes

1. All odd rounds (1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11) and all odd rows are lace rounds/rows. All even rounds (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12) are plain k rounds. All even rows are plain p rows.
2. In the pattern, the terms “left” and “right” refer to the left and right sides of the baby/child when worn.
3. Button holes and button bands are worked on either shoulder for the smaller sizes (14, 16, 18, 20)” only. For the bigger sizes (22, 23, 25)”, the shoulders are closed with a 3-needle bind off.

Vest

Using any preferred cast on method, CO 70 (78, 90, 102, 110, 118, 126) sts. Join in the rnd while being sure not to twist the stitches. Place a BOR marker.

Garter border

Work 7 (7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11) rnds starting with a RS rnd in garter st (k on RS rnds and p on WS rnds).In the next rnd, place markers as follows.

P7 (9, 12, 15, 17, 19, 21), pm L1, p21, pm L2, p7 (9, 12, 15, 17, 19, 21), pm MOR, p to BOR.

Begin Lace Pattern

Rnd 1 and all odd rnds: Sm BOR, k7 (9, 12, 15, 17, 19, 21), sm L1, work next rnd of patt using chart or written instructions, sm L2, k7 (9, 12, 15, 17, 19, 21), sm MOR, k to end.

Rnd 2 and all even rnds: K to end.

 

Size 14: Work 2 patt reps.

Size 16: Work 2 patt reps, then work rnds 1-6.

Size 18: Work 3 patt reps.

Size 20: Work 3 patt reps, then work rnds 1-6.

Size 22: Work 4 patt reps, then work rnds 1-6.

Size 23: Work 4 patt reps, then work rnds 1-6.

Size 25: Work 5 patt reps.

 

Over the next few sections, you will work the armhole garter band and do the armhole shaping. The armhole garter band and armhole shaping instructions differ slightly for each of the sizes, so see the instructions for your specific size. I recommend highlighting or marking your specific size and row numbers for easy reading.

 

Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

You have completed 24 (30, 36, 42, 54, 54, 60) rnds, so far.

Sizes 14 (16)” only

Next rnd (RS): Same as Rnd 1 (7).

Next rnd (WS): Same as Rnd 2 (8).

Place 4 garter st markers, 4 sts before and after the BOR and MOR markers. Slip markers as you come to them and keep track of which rnd you’re working in the st patt. Over the following 4 rnds (2 garter ridges), you will be knitting the armhole garter band.

Next rnd: K4, pm G1, k3 (5), sm L1, work Rnd 3 (9) of patt, sm L2, k3 (5), pm G2, k4, sm MOR, k4, pm G3, k to 4 sts before BOR, pm G4, k4.

Next rnd: P4, sm G1, k3 (5), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k3 (5), sm G2, p4, sm MOR, p4, sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, p4.

Next rnd: K4, sm G1, k3 (5), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k3 (5), sm G2, k4, sm MOR, k4, sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, k4.

Next rnd: P4, sm G1, k3 (5), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k3 (5), sm G2, p4, sm MOR, p4, sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, p4.

Sizes 18 (20, 22, 23, 25)” only:

Place 4 garter st markers, 5 (6, 6, 6, 6) sts before and after the BOR and MOR markers. Slip markers as you come to them and keep track of which row you’re working in the st patt. Over the following 6 rnds (3 garter ridges), you will be knitting the armhole garter band.

Next rnd: K5 (6, 6, 6, 6), pm G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work Rnd 1 (7, 7, 7, 1) of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), pm G2, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), pm G3, k to 5 (6, 6, 6, 6) sts before BOR, pm G4, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

Next rnd: P5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm G2, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

Next rnd: K5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm  G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm G2, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

Next rnd: P5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm G2, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

Next rnd: K5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm G2, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, k5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

Next rnd: P5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G1, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm L1, work next rnd of patt, sm L2, k7 (9, 11, 13, 15), sm G2, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm MOR, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6), sm G3, k to G4, sm G4, p5 (6, 6, 6, 6).

ALL SIZES 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

You will now begin armhole shaping, for which you will split the vest for front and back, having 35 (39, 45, 51, 55, 59, 63) sts each. Place the back sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn and continue working the front.

FRONT

Over the next few rows, you will slip markers as you come to them unless you’re told to remove a marker. You will knit on the RS, following the lace pattern between the lace markers, L1 and L2. On the WS side, you will purl between the garter st markers. You will be removing the BOR and MOR markers, but retain the garter st markers until the armhole is complete.

Next row (RS): Remove BOR marker, BO1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3), k to L1, work next row of patt to L2, k to MOR, remove MOR marker, turn to WS; 34 (38, 43, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts

Next row (WS): BO1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3), k3 to G2, p to G1, k3 to end of row, turn work to RS; 33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57) sts

Next row: K3 to G1, ssk, k to L1, work next row of patt to L2, k to 2 sts before G2, k2tog, k3; 31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55) sts

Next row: K3 to G2, p to G1, k3 to end of row.

Next row: K3 to G1, ssk, k to L1, work next row of patt to L2, k to 2 sts before G2, k2tog, k3; – (33, 37, 41, 45, 49, 53) sts

Next row: K3 to G2, p to G1, k3 to end of row.

Sizes 14 (16, 23, 25)” only:

Cont to work the next 2 (6, 6, 6) rows in patt.

All Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”:  

Remove the lace markers L1 and L2, and the front garter st markers G1 and G2 markers.

Next row (RS): K to end, turn work to WS.

Next row (WS): K3, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k21, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k3, turn work.

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k21, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k3

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3, BO15 (15, 17, 19, 21, 21, 21), k3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3

Left front

Next row: K to end, turn work.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3, turn work.

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3

Sizes 18 (20, 22, 23, 25)”:

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, – (-, p4, p5, p6, p8, p10), k3

Sizes 20 (22, 23, 25)”:

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p5 (6, 8, 10), k3

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p5 (6, 8, 10), k3

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p5 (6, 8, 10), k3

Next row: K to end.

Sizes 22 (23, 25)”:

Next row: K3, p6 (8, 10), k3

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p6 (8, 10), k3

Next row: K to end.

Place the live sts on a st holder.  Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch long tail.

Left shoulder button hole – Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20)”

Next row (RS): K to end.

Next row (WS): K to end.

Next row: K3 (4, 4, 5), k2tog, yo, k3 (4, 4, 5)

Next 2 rows: K to end.

Next row: BO all sts.

Right front

Rejoin yarn and rep as for left front.

Right shoulder button hole – Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20)” only:

Rep as for left shoulder button hole.

Back

Place the 35 (39, 45, 51, 55, 59, 63) sts from the stitch holder back onto the needles. Over the next few rows, you will knit on the RS and purl on the WS, between the back garter st markers G3 and G4. Slip markers as you come to them.

All Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”:

Next row (RS): BO1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3), k to end; 34 (38, 43, 48, 52, 56, 60) sts

Next row (WS): BO1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3), k3 to G4, p to G3, k to end; 33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53, 57) sts

Next row: K3 to G3, ssk, k to 2 sts before G4, k2tog, k to end; 31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55) sts

Next row: K3 to G4, p to G3, k to end

Sizes 16 (18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

Next row: K3 to G3, ssk, k to 2 sts before G4, k2tog, k to end; 33 (37, 41, 45, 49, 53) sts

Next row K3 to G4, p to G3, k to end

Size 14 (16)” only

Cont to work the next 2 (6) rows.

All Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

Remove the back garter st markers G3 and G4.

Sizes 20 (22, 23, 25)”

Next row (RS): K to end.

Next row (WS): K3, p to 3 sts before end of row, k3.

Repeat the above 2 rows an additional 2 (2, 5, 5) times (a total of 6 (6, 12, 12 rows)).

All Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25)”

Next row (RS): K to end.

Next row (WS): K3, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k21, p2 (3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), k3.

Rep above 2 rows one more time (a total of 4 rows).

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3, BO15 (15, 17, 19, 21, 21, 21), k3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3

Right back

Next row: K to end.

Next row: K3, p2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10), k3

Rep above 2 rows an additional 1 (1, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4) times

Sizes 22 (23, 25)” only

K to end.  Place the live sts on a st holder.  Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch long tail.

Sizes 14 (16, 18, 20)” only

Right shoulder button band –

Knit 5 rows and then BO.

Left back

Rejoin yarn and rep as for right back.

Left shoulder button band

Rep as for right shoulder button band.

Join shoulders using 3-needle bind off

Transfer the left front and right front sts to two needles. Using 3-needle bind off, join left front and left back. Similarly, join right front and right back.

1. Hold the two needles with live sts such that their wrong sides are on the outside.
2. Holding the needles parallel in one hand and using a third needle, k into the first st of the needle closest to you, and without dropping the st, k into the first st of the second needle (the one that’s farther from you).
3. Wrap the working yarn around the third needle and pull through both sts and knit as one st. Now you have 1 st less on each of the left hand needles, and 1 new st on the working needle (in the right hand).
4. Repeat steps 2-3 again, so you have two sts on the third needle.
5. Now pass the first st on the third needle and over the second st as if to bind off.

Repeat steps 2-5 until you have worked all sts and have bound off all but one st on the third needle.

Pull yarn through.

Finishing

Block your vest gently to measurements. Weave in ends. Sew on buttons as necessary.