This is the most basic of a Strong Heel, toe-up sock. It has all the more challenging parts for you to learn it, but it’s just a footie so it’s quicker to work.
Give one a try today!
Tutorials
Yarn
1 skein (166 yards) Patons Kroy Socks Yarn. The yarn usage will be close depending on the length of your sock so you may want to be safe and buy 2 balls (and keep the receipt!). You can always exchange it for another color if you only need the one ball. Better safe than sorry!
Needles
One pair of US #3 (3.25 mm) circular needles in your preferred length for magic loop. I prefer 24” for this so I can avoid a lot of sliding of the yarn on the cables, but many people prefer 32” or even 40”.
Gauge
28 sts and 36 rnds = 4”/10 cm
Notions
2 stitch markers
yarn needle
Socks
Toe
CO 8 sts on each needle using your preferred toe up cast on (my preference is the Turkish CO); 16 sts
Setup rnd: Knit all sts.
Rnd 1: (on each needle) K1, kfb, knit until 3 sts rem, kfb, k2; 10 sts per needle, 20 sts total.
Rep Rnd 1 until there are 16 sts on each needle (a total of 32 sts). Then:
Rnd 1: Knit all sts.
Rnd 2: (on each needle) K1, kfb, knit until 3 sts rem, kfb, k2; 18 sts per needle, 36 sts total.
Rep the above 2 rnds until there are 24 sts on each needle (a total of 48 sts).
Now that you’re done with the increases, knit all sts (no increases) for 6 rounds. The toe is complete!
Foot
Knit all sts until you’re 2.75” away from the end of your heel.
If you’re deciding between now and a ¼” longer, I suggest you start the heel now. A sock that’s too big doesn’t fit well and sock yarn stretches if it’s a bit snug.
Gusset
Setup Rnd 1: (needle 1) K1, lli, pm, k to 1 st rem, pm, rli, k1, (needle 2) knit; 26 sts on N1, 24 sts on N2.
Setup Rnd 2: Knit all sts on both needles.
Rnd 1: (needle 1) K until m, lli, sm, k to m, sm, rli, k to end, (needle 2) knit; 2 sts inc’d on needle 1.
Rnd 2: Knit all sts on both needles.
Rep above 2 rnds until you have 46 sts on needle 1.
Heel Flap
The heel flap is worked flat, only over needle 1 (the gusset needle). The other needle just stays unworked. Slip marker as you come to it (it’s placed in Setup Row 1). Remove the other markers you placed for working the gusset while you’re working Setup Row 1.
Setup Row 1 (RS): K23, pm, k2, ssk, k1, turn.
Setup Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p until m, sm, p2, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st bef gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st bef gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep above 2 rows until there are 2 sts rem unworked on each side of the gusset.
Optional: In order to make the footie a little smaller at the ankle, work 2 dec rows (a total of 4 sts will be decreased) on the right side by doing the below decrease row.
Decrease Row (RS): Sl1, k until 3 sts bef m, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, k until 1 st bef gap, ssk, k1, turn.
You should work this row when there are approximately 8 and 10 sts after the marker and bef the gap.
Next Row: Sl 1, k until 1 st bef gap, sssk. DO NOT TURN.
You’ll now be working in the round again.
Setup Rnd (half-round): Knit all sts.
Setup Rnd 2: K3tog, k to end; N2: Knit.
Rnd 1: K all sts on both needles.
The heel turn is done! You will have 44 sts (if you worked the optional dec rows) or 48 sts if you did not.
Your footie is almost complete!
Cuff
Return to knitting in the round. Knit 1”.
Ribbing
Rnd 1: *K2, p2, rep from * until end.
Rep above rnd 4 more times.
Rolled cuff
Knit all sts for 1”. BO using a stretchy BO such as the decrease BO.
Finishing
Weave in both ends and block. Make the second footie.
The heel flap is worked flat, only over needle 1 (the gusset needle). The other needle just stays unworked. Slip marker as you come to it (it’s placed in Setup Row 1). Remove the other markers you placed for working the gusset while you’re working Setup Row 1.
I have made the first part, I have 46 sts on needle 1 .
If I follow the instructions I work only 28 sts on needle 1 and I turn, I have 4 sts before the Marker. If I have to turn and go back, I do not have enough sts to go on working… or am I missing something?
Setup Row 1 (RS): K23, pm, k2, ssk, k1, turn.
Setup Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p until m, sm, p2, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 1: Sl 1, k until 1 st bef gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p until 1 st bef gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Rep above 2 rows until there are 2 sts rem unworked on each side of the gusset.
I don’t think this is correct.
I do agree that you’ll have 4 sts before the marker. But the gaps (what is referenced in Rows 1 and 2) are *after* the Marker.
You’ll be working one additional stitch with each row. So, you’ll be creating a triangle with the flat piece at the top. When looking at it, the tip will be at the base of the heel and then it will get wider as it goes up. Here’s a pic that shows you where the SM will be (approximately – I haven’t checked to make sure there are exactly 23 sts on each side)
Does that help?
If I wanted to do this in sock yarn how would I do it? Increase cast on to ? Then ? Also make a ribbed ankle.
BE STRONG AND CARRY
I’m not sure. It sounds like a pretty different sock tbh.
Hi! I’m looking for the PDF, or Print to PDF button for this pattern. Would you be able to tell me how to turn it to a PDF so I can use it when I am offline as well?
Thank you! 🙂
You can just Print to PDF. It doesn’t actually print, it just creates the PDF.