Fence Vest by Maria Leigh

Sizes

Finished Bust Size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)” to Fit Bust Size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)” – No Ease Recommended
Shown is size 36” – short length

Yarn

Zaol Canon (100% Merino wool; 95 yds (87 m) / 50 g): Color# 529
Short Length: 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9) balls, Long Length: 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) balls

Needles

US#7 (4.5 mm): 24″ circular
US#8 (5.0 mm): 24” circular
US G (4.5 mm) Crochet Hook (for crochet CO)

Gauge

16 sts and 20 rows = 4”, or 8 sts and 10 rows = 2” in staggered eyelet pattern after wet blocking.

Notions

Stitch markers; stitch holders; tapestry needle.

Chart

Abbreviations

Please see our standard list of abbreviations.

LKI (Left-leaning lifted incresase): Insert left needle into left loop of stitch two low below last completed stitch. Knit this stitch through the back loop. You can substitute this for m1L.
RKI (Right-leaning lifted increase): Insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below next stitch. Place it onto left needle and knit. Then Knit the stitch on needle. You can substitute this for m1R.

Please see detailed step-by-step instructions on the lifted increase here.

Pattern Notes

The body pieces have very narrow shoulders; wide neck and arm bands are added to the body during finishing to create the shoulder width.

The pattern includes options for two different lengths and instructions for how to re-size the pattern if you’re in between sizes, so, read the pattern carefully and let’s knit.

Side Shaping

Note: Side shaping is identical on front and back.
Dec Row (RS): K1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1
Inc Row (RS): K2, LKI, work to last 2 sts, RKI, k1

Staggered Eyelet Pattern

(multiple of 4 sts plus 2)
Setup Row 1 (RS): K
Setup Row 2: P

Rows 1, 5 (RS):K
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 (all WS rows): P
Rows 3: K1,  *K2, k2tog, yo, rep from * until 1 st rem, k1
Row 7: K1, *k2tog, yo, k2, rep from * until 1 st rem, k1

Repeat Rows 1-8

How to get correct gauge?

It’s important to check the gauge in pattern.  Make a gauge swatch as follows:

Using the long tail method, CO 30 sts

Rows 1-6: Knit
Row 7 (WS): K3, p24, k3
Rows 8, 16, 24 (RS): K4, *k2, K2tog, yo* 5 times, k6
Rows 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 (WS): K3, p24, k3
Rows 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30: Knit
Rows 12, 20, 28: K4, *k2tog, yo, k2* 5 times, k6
Rows 30-35: Knit

BO all sts.

Count sts and rows within a 2” or 4” square after wet blocking.

Crochet Chain CO

This CO stitch is worked with a crochet hook 0.5 mm smaller than the main needle size. I selected this CO because it matches the look of the bindoff.

{View a slideshow of step-by-step images for this cast on}

Make a slip knot. Hold crochet hook in your right hand and hold knitting needle in your left hand.

Bring the yarn under the needle and grab a loop over the top of the needle using crochet hook.

Bring the yarn back under the needle in preparation for the next stitch. Repeat for desired number of stitches minus one. Move the loop from the crochet hook on right hand to the needle for the last stitch.

Pattern

Front and Back (both lengths)

Crochet CO 62 (70, 78, 86, 94, 102, 110, 118) sts with US 8 (5mm) needle and US G (4.5mm) crochet hook.
Row 1 (WS): K2, *p3, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 (RS): P1, *k3, p1 rep from * until 1 st rem, p1
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 2” from CO, ending with a RS row.

Next Row (WS): K15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29), m1R, *k16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30), m1R* twice, k15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) – 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121) sts.
Work Staggered Eyelet Pattern from chart, or as written below (note a single selvage st on each edge)

Rows 1, 5 (RS): Knit
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8: Purl
Row 3: K1(selvage st), *k2, k2tog, yo, rep from * until 4 sts rem, k3, k1(selvage st)
Row 7: K1 (selvage st), *k2tog, yo, k2, rep from * to end of row (note – selvage st is worked as a part of the last rep – no need to work a separate selvage st).

Cont even in patt until piece measures 3 (3, 3, 3, 3½, 3½, 4, 4)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Dec Row (RS): K1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 – 2 sts dec’d.

Short Version

Keeping continuity of patt, rep Dec Row every 4th Row an additional 5 times; 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts rem

Cont even in patt until piece measures 8 (8, 8, 8, 8½, 8½, 9, 9)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Inc Row (RS): K1, LKI, work until 2 sts rem, RKI, k1 – 2 sts inc

Keeping continuity of patt, rep Inc Row every 6th row an additional 3 times; 61 (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117) sts.

You will now folow separate instructions for the front and the back.

Back (Short Version)

Cont even in patt until piece measures 13 (13, 13, 13, 13½, 13½, 14, 14)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Back (Long Version)

Keeping continuity of patt, rep Dec Row every 6th Row an additional 5 times; 53 (61, 69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109) sts rem.

Cont even in patt until piece measures 10 (10, 10, 10, 10½, 10½, 11, 11)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row

Inc Row (RS): K1, LKI, work until 2 sts rem, RKI, k1 – 2 sts inc

Keeping continuity of patt, rep Inc Row every 6th row an additional 3 times; 61 (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 109, 117) sts.

Cont even in patt until piece measures 15 (15, 15, 15, 15½, 15½, 16, 16)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Back Armholes (both lengths)

BO 7 (9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17) sts at beg of next 2 rows, and BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Dec 1 st at each armhole edge next RS row once, 4th row once, and 6th row once – 35 (39, 43, 47, 53, 59, 63, 67) sts rem.
Cont even in patt until piece measure 9 (9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10, 10½, 10½)” from armhole edge.

Back: AT THE SAME TIME, work Back Neck and Shoulder Shaping

Back Neck

Work even in patt until piece measure 7½ (7½, 8, 8, 8½, 8½, 9, 9)” from armhole edge.

Split for Neck (RS): Work 6 (7, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15) sts, rejoin new yarn, BO 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37) sts, work 6 (7, 8, 9, 11, 13, 14, 15)

Left Neck

Row 1(WS): Purl
Row 2 (RS): BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, k3 (3, 3, 3, 4,5, 5, 5)

Work even in st st until piece measures 1½” from back neck edge. Place rem sts on stitch holder or safety pin.

Right Neck

Row 1 (WS): Purl
Row 2 (RS): Knit
Row 3 (WS): BO 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, p3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5)

Work even in st st until piece measure 1½” from Back Neck edge.  Place rem sts on stitch holder or safety pin.

Front Neck

At the same time, begin neck shaping when work measures:

Short Version: 10 (10, 10, 10, 10½, 10½, 11, 11) ” from CO edge, ending with WS row.

Long Version: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12½, 12½, 13, 13) ” from CO edge, ending with WS row.

Sizes 32 (36, 40)”

Split for Neck (RS): K23 (26, 28) sts, join new yarn, BO 15 (17, 21) sts, k to end of row.

Right Neck

Row 1 (and all WS rows): P
Row 2: BO 4 (4, 5) sts, work to end of row .

Work evenly for 2 rows.

Rows 5, 9, 15 (Dec Row): Ssk, work to end of row.

Left Neck

Row 1: BO 4 (4, 5) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (and all RS rows): K

Work evenly for 1 row.

Rows 4, 8, 14 (Dec Row): Work until 2 sts rem, k2tog.

Short Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 13 (13, 13)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Long Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 15 (15, 15)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Sizes 44 (48, 52)”

Split for Neck (RS): K33 (36, 39) sts, join new yarn, BO 19 (21, 23) sts, k to end of row.

Right Neck

Row 1 (and all WS rows): P
Row 2: BO 4 (5, 5) sts, k to end of row.
Row 4: BO 3 (3, 4) sts, k to end of row.
Rows 6, 8, 12, 18: Ssk, k to end of row.

Left Neck

Row 1(WS): P
Row 3: BO 4 (5, 5,) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 5: BO 3 (3, 4) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 6, 8, 12, 18: Work until 2 sts rem, k2tog

Short Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 13 (13½, 13½)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Long Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 15 (15½, 15½)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Sizes 56 (60)”

Split for Neck (RS): K41 (45) sts, join new yarn, BO 27 (27) sts, k to end of row.

Right Neck

Row 1 (and all WS rows): P
Row 2: BO 5 (6) sts, k to end of row..
Row 4: BO 3 (4) sts, k to end of row.
Rows 6, 8, 12, 16, 22: Ssk, k to end of row.

Left Neck

Row 1(WS): P
Row 3: BO 5 (6) sts, purl to end of row.
Row 5: BO 3 (4) sts, purl to end of row.
Rows 6, 8, 12, 16, 22: Work until 2 sts rem, k2tog

Short Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 14 (14)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Long Version: Cont even in patt, working both sides of neck separately, until piece measures 16 (16)” from CO edge, ending with a WS row.

Front Armholes (both lengths)

BO 7 (9, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17) sts at beg of next 2 rows, and BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

Dec 1 st at each armhole edge next RS row once, 4th row once, and 6th row once – 3 (4, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5) sts rem.
Cont even in st st until piece measure 9 (9, 9½, 9½, 10, 10, 10½, 10½)” from armhole edge.

Finishing

Using mattress stitch, sew sides seams.  Using backstitch, sew shoulder seams.

Neck and Arm Band

Neck Band Pick Up Row: With RS facing, Pick up 80 (84, 92, 96, 104, 108, 116, 120) sts on Front and 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48) sts on Back using larger circular needle.

Arm Band Pick Up Row: With RS facing, pick up 60 (64, 72, 76, 84, 88, 92, 100) sts on Armhole using larger circular needle.

Place sm and work all bands as follows, working in the rnd:

Setup Row: Purl

3×1 Rib Pattern: *k3, p1, rep from * to end of rnd.

Work evenly in 3×1 Rib Pattern until ribbing measures ¾ (¾, 1, 1, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼)” from pick up edge. Change to smaller circular needle.
Work evenly in 3X1 Rib Pattern until ribbing measure 1½(1½, 1¾, 1¾, 2, 2, 2, 2)” from pick up edge. BO.

Tips for Custom Sizing

If your bust size falls in the middle of two sizes (e.g. 34”), you can easily adjust this pattern for a better fit as follows:

Add 4 sts to the CO count for each of the back and front.

For example: Size 34”

CO 66 sts.  When working the armholes, work an extra decrease on each side, and when working the neck, BO 2 additional sts when doing the Split for Neck row.

Neck Band and Arm Band sts can remain the same as a size 30”.

Schematic