This lacy ankle sock is inspired by Dolly Levi’s admonition to “Put on your Sunday clothes when you feel down and out”. Romantic and feminine, these socks are sure to make everyone who wears them “feel as fine as they look.”

Pattern is a lace ankle sock with turned-down cuff that is worked from the top down using heel flap and gusset construction. Stitch pattern forms the scalloped edge. A lace insert flows down the top of foot to the toe. Suitable for the Intermediate knitter. Requires multiple increases and decreases, twisted stitches, lace, and understanding of sock construction.

Yarn

~400 yd/366 m yarn. Sample in: Verdant Gryphon Little Traveler (100% superwash merino; 560 yd/512 m per 113 g) 1 skeins in Gallifrey (discontinued but Hot Lava Love or Orange Assassin Bug are good substitutes).

Needles

US size1/2.25 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge) needles for small diameter knitting in the round (1 long circular, 2 short circulars, or 4 – 5 double pointed)

Notions

Tapestry needle
Stitch markers, 2 required (plus 2 extra if you want to mark lace repeats, optional)

Gauge

36 stitches and 40 rows per 4 inch/10 cm in stockinette stitch

Size

One size fits teens and adults 7 – 8.5 in/ 18 – 22 cm foot circumference. Lace on the foot allows for extra stretch. Length is customizable.

Hints for increasing foot circumference are included in the pattern.

Finished Dimensions

Lace cuff 8.5 in/22 cm circumference after blocking

Ankle 5 in/13 cm circumference after blocking measured flat and unstretched.

Foot 7 in/18 cm after blocking, measured flat and unstretched

Instep Lace Chart

Begin chart as directed in written instructions for Gusset.

Instep Lace Pattern Chart

Rnd 1 (and all following odd rnds): Knit.

Rnd 2: K15, Cluster 3, k15.

Rnd 4: K13, k3tog, yo, kfbf, yo, sssk, k13.

Rnd 6: K11, k3tog, yo, k2tog, yo, kfbf, yo, ssk, yo, sssk, k11.

Rnd 8: K10, (k2tog, yo) three times, k1-tbl, (yo, ssk) three times, k10.

Rnd 10: K11, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, k11.

Rnd 12: K10, (ssk, yo) three times, k1-tbl, (yo, k2tog) three times, k10.

Rnd 14:  K11, kfb, yo, ssk, yo, Work 5 tog, yo, k2tog, yo, kfb, k11.

Rnd 16: K13, kfb, yo, Work 5 tog, yo, kfb, k13.

Pattern Notes

The unusual construction of this sock makes the feminine turned down cuff possible. Don’t fret. I will hold your hand through the entire process.

All stitches are slipped purlwise (as if to purl) unless part of a decrease.

If you don’t want to bother with the math, you can increase the sock by using a gauge of 8.5 stitch per inch without affecting the durability of the sock.

Abbreviations

kfbf: Knit in front, back, and again in front of same st (Increasing 2 sts)
Cluster x: Slip x sts with yarn in back, bring yarn to front, slip same x sts back to left needle, carry yarn to back and slip same number of stitches again (x sts wrapped)
Work 5 tog: Ssk, k3tog, pass ssk over.

Instructions

CO 66 sts using your favorite flexible cast on. I used Long Tail Cast On.

Join to work in the round.

Cuff

Knit 1 rnd.

Rnd 1: *Yo, (K1-tbl, p3) five times, k1-tbl, yo, k1; repeat from * to end of rnd (72 sts).

Rnd 2: K2, *(p3, k1) four times, p3, k5; rep from * to  end, ending last rep with k3.

Rnd 3: *Yo, k1-tbl, yo, (k1-tbl, p3) five times, (k1-tbl, yo) twice; k1; repeat from * to end of rnd (84 sts).

Rnd 4: K4, *(p3, k1), 4 times, p3, k9; repeat from *  to  end, ending last rep with k5.

Rnd 5: *Yo, k1-tbl, yo, ssk, yo, (k1-tbl, p2tog, p1) five times, k1-tbl, yo, k2tog, yo, k1-tbl, yo, k1; repeat from * to end of rnd (81 sts).

Rnd 6: K6, *(p2, k1) four times, p3, k13; repeat from * to  end, ending last rep with k7.

Rnd 7: *K1-tbl, (yo, ssk) twice, yo, (k1-tbl, p2) five times, k1-tbl, yo, (k2tog, yo) twice, k1-tbl, k1; repeat from * to end of rnd (87 sts).

Rnd 8: K7, *(p2, k1) four times, p2, k15; repeat from * to  end, ending last rep with k8.

Rnd 9: K1, *(yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k1-tbl, yo, (k1-tbl, p2tog) five times, (k1-tbl, yo) twice, (ssk, yo) twice, k3; repeat from *  to  end, ending last rep with k2 (84 sts).

Rnd 10: K9, *(p1, k1) 4 times, p1, k19; repeat from * to  end, ending last rep with k10.

Rnd 11: Slip 1 and transfer st to end of rnd for working final decrease, *(yo, k2tog) three times, k1-tbl, yo, (k1-tbl, p1) five times, k1-tbl, yo, k1-tbl, (ssk, yo) three times, S2KP; repeat from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 12: K9, *(p1, k1) four times, p1, k19; repeat from * to end, ending last rep with k10.

Rnd 13: *(k2tog, yo) twice, k2tog, k1, k1-tbl, yo, (ssk) twice, S2KP, (k2tog) twice, yo, k1-tbl, k1, ssk, (yo, ssk) twice, k1; repeat from * to end of rnd (66 sts).

Rnd 14: K1, transfer this st to end of rnd for working final cluster st, *k7, Cluster 5, k7, Cluster 3; repeat from * to end of rnd.

Slip last st worked to beginning of rnd.

Repeat Rnds 1 – 14 once (or number of repeats needed for desired cuff length.

Leg

Slip 3 sts and transfer to end of rnd, mark new beg of rnd, p to end of rnd.

Purl 2 rnds.

Next rnd: Knit 5 sts and transfer to end of rnd, mark new beg of rnd, knit to end arranging sts so there are 34 Instep sts and 32 Sole sts.

Knit 1 rnd.

• If you need a larger sock you may increase in multiples of 4 stitches on the knit round.

Work 1X1 ribbing (*k1, p1; repeat from * to end of rnd) until ribbing is the same length as cuff.

Heel

Heel Flap (worked over sole sts)

Row 1(WS): Slip 1, p 31 (leaving 34 sts held for instep).

Row 2 (RS): *Slip 1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Row 3:  Slip 1, p31.

Row 4: Slip 1, k2, *slip 1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Repeat Rows 1-4 seven more times.

Next Row: K1, p 31. (33 rows total; 16 slipped sts on each edge of heel flap)

If you increased sts for the sock, you will work the heel flap over half the total number of sts minus 2 and you will work the heel turn starting with half the total number of sts plus 2.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS):  K18, ssk, k1, turn (leaving remaining 11 sts unworked). (1 st decreased)

Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, p5, p2tog, turn. (leaving remaining 11 sts unworked) (1 st decreased)

Row 3: Slip 1, k to gap made by turn on previous row, ssk (closing gap), k1, turn.

Row 4: Slip 1, p to gap made by turn on previous row, p2tog (closing gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until 2 unworked sts remain on each end of heel flap.

Next Row: Slip 1, k to last 2 sts, ssk, turn.

Next Row: Slip 1, p to last 2 sts, p2tog, turn. (18 sts remain)

Gusset

Set Up Rnd: K18, pick up and knit 16 sts from slipped sts along the edge of heel flap, k16, k2tog, k16 across Instep sts, pick up and knit 16 sts from slipped sts along opposite edge of heel flap, k9, mark new beginning of rnd. (83 sts total; 33 Instep sts, 50 sole sts)

Rnd 1: K9, k13 tbl, k2tog, k1tbl, PM (Instep Marker), using either charts or written instructions below work Row 1 of Instep Lace pattern across 33 Instep sts, PM (Sole Marker), k1tbl, ssk, k13 tbl, k9. (2 sts decreased)

• If you prefer a stockinette stitch foot, work Instep stitches as K33.
• Slip all markers as you come to them.

Rnd 2: K to Instep marker, work next row of Instep Lace Pattern across Instep sts, k to end of rnd.

Rnd 3: K to last 3 Sole sts, k2tog, k1, work next row of Instep Lace Pattern across Instep sts, k1, ssk, k to end of rnd. (2 sts decreased)

Repeat Rnds 2-3 seven more times for a total of 9 decreasing rnds. (32 Sole sts)

If you increased the total number of sts, you will work the gusset back down to your preferred total number of sts.

Remove beginning of round marker, knit to end of Sole sts and mark new beginning of rnd.

Foot

Rnd 1: Work across Instep sts in established lace pattern, k Sole sts.

Repeat Rnd 1 until foot is 1.5 inches shorter than desired length.

Each lace repeat is approximately 1.38 in/3.5 cm long so plan your last lace repeat accordingly. You will be able to work no more than 6 rows of lace once you start decreasing for the toe so it may be necessary to work a few rows of plain stockinette st to get to the correct length for starting the toe decreases.

If you increased stitches, you will need to divide the stitches evenly on each side of the lace repeat. Just add one st to each side of the repeat for each 4 sts you increased.

Toe

Set up: K15, k2tog, k to end of rnd. (64 sts total; 32 each on Instep and Sole.

Rnd 1:  Knit.

Rnd 2: K2, ssk, k to last 4 Instep sts, k2tog, k4, ssk, k to last 4 Sole sts, k2tog, k2. (4 sts decreased)

Repeat Rnds 1-2 seven more times (32 sts remaining; 16 sts each for Instep and Sole)

Repeat Rnd 2 only four more times (16 sts remain; 8 each for Instep and Sole.

Graft toe together using Kitchener stitch or close with 3-needle bind of on WS.

Wet block stretching the lace cuff slightly to give it a nice shape but without stretching the lace panel on the Instep. Instead, pat the Instep lace motifs to smooth out the decreases but do not stretch them.