Uda’s Jacket

If you’re looking for something warm and cozy that feels like fashion instead of a winter mumu, this deceptively simple sweater is the perfect project. Easy to knit and fun to wear, the sweater will be become your go to outer layer for the cooler months. Wide cables on the back give the body some texture while the same cables are featured on the sleeves. Seamlessly worked saddle shoulders allow the sleeve cables to continue all the way up to the neck which flairs into a deep hood.

Yarn

Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% Alpaca/50% wool [100g (3.5 oz)/198 m (215 yrds)] color #6285) 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 9) skeins.

Needles

US Size 8 (5 mm) 24” circular (cir) needle and set of double pointed needles (dpn). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions

markers (m)

split ring m

stitch holders

tapestry needle

8 toggles

G crochet hook

Gauge

16 sts and 22 rows = 4” in St st.

Pattern Notes

Piece is worked back and forth; circular needle is used to accommodate the large number of stitches. Pay careful attention to the Setup Rows in the Yoke section. These are important to keep the decreasing in one straight line.

“Work to” measurements are for unblocked yarn. Ultra Alpaca expands between 1 to 2 inches when wet blocked. 

Special Stitches

4/4 LC: Sl 4 sts onto CN pwise and hold in front. Knit 4 sts from left needle, knit 4 sts from CN.

4/4 RC: Sl 4 sts onto CN pwise and hold in back. Knit 4 sts from left needle, knit 4 sts from CN.

Pattern

Body

Using Backwards Loop Cast-On, CO 124 (132, 148, 164, 180, 200, 216) sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2” [2.5 cm].

For the setup row, you’ll be placing markers and shifting around a few knits and purls so they flow nicely into the cables.

Setup Row (size 30 only) (RS) K29, pm for side, k13, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, k6, p2, k16, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, k6, p2, k11, pm for side, knit to end.

(Sizes 33, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54 only) (RS) K31 (35, 39, 43, 49, 52), pm for side, k15 (19, 23, 27, 31, 36), p2, k8, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, k14, p2, k8, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, k13 (17, 21, 25, 29, 34), pm for side, knit to end.

After this setup row, slip all markers as you come to them.

Next Row (all sizes) (WS) Knit the knits and purl the purls.

Next Row (RS) K42 (46, 54, 62, 70, 80, 88) work Back Chart across next 40 sts, knit to end. Work 1 WS row even.

Dec Row (RS): *Work in pattern to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk; rep from *, work in pattern to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec Row every 6^th row 5 (5, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times—100 (108, 128, 144, 160, 180, 196) sts rem; 23 (35, 30, 34, 38, 44, 47) sts front; 54 (58, 68, 76, 84, 92, 102) sts back. Work evenly in pattern until piece measures 9” [22.75 cm] from CO edge, ending on a WS Row.

Inc Row (RS) *Work in pattern to 1 sts before m, rli, k1, sl m, k1, lli; rep from *, work in pattern to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc Row every 6^th row 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4) more times—120 (132, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216) sts total; 28 (31, 36, 40, 44, 49, 52) sts front; 64 (70, 80, 88, 96, 102, 112) sts back. Work evenly in pattern until piece measures 15” [38 cm] form CO edge, ending on a WS Row.

Sleeves

Make 1 of each sleeve (right sleeve and left sleeve)

Using Backwards Loop Cast-On, CO 30 (34, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Join for working in the round and pm for start of round.

Rnd 1: K1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), *k2, p2; rep from * to 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) sts from end, knit to end. Work in pattern for 3″ [7.5 cm].

Setup Rnd: (sizes 30, 42, 50, only): K8 (12, 16) sts, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, k6, p2, knit to end of rnd.

Setup Rnd: (Sizes 33, 38, 46, 52 only): K10 (10, 14, 18) p2, k8, sts, sl 2 sts pwise onto cable needle, hold in back, p2, k2 sts from cable needle, p2, knit to end of rnd.

Next Rnd (All sizes): K8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20), work appropriate Sleeve Chart (either Right or Left Sleeve Cables) over next 12 sts, knit to end.

Inc Rnd: K1, lli, work in pattern to 1 sts from end, rli, k1—2 st inc’d. Rep Inc Rnd every 10th rnd 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) more times—44 (48, 52, 56, 62, 66, 72) Sleeve sts total. Continue working in pattern until sleeve measures 16 (16, 16 ½, 17, 17, 17 ½, 18)” [40.5, 40.5, 42, 43.25, 43.25, 44.5, 45.75 cm] from CO edge. Next rnd K5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts. Break yarn leaving a long tail. Place first and last 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts of rnd on holder for underarm.

Joining Row (RS): Start working on body, but you’ll be adding the sleeves in as well. Knit to 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) from m, removing m as you come to it place the next 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18) sts on holder for underarm, pm, work 34 (36, 40, 42, 48, 50, 54) Right Sleeve sts, pm, work in pattern to 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) from m, removing m as you come to it place the next 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18) sts on holder for underarm, pm, work 34 (36, 40, 42, 48, 50, 54) Left Sleeve sts, pm, knit to end—168 (180, 208, 224, 252, 268, 288) sts total; 23 (25, 30, 33, 37, 41, 43) Right Front sts; 34 (36, 40, 42, 48, 50) Right Sleeve sts; 54 (58, 68, 74, 82, 86, 94) Back sts; work 34 (36, 40, 42, 48, 50, 54) Left Sleeve sts; 23 (25, 30, 33, 37, 41, 43) Left Front sts. Work 1 WS row even.

Yoke

Body Dec Row (RS) *Work to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work in pattern to m, sl m, ssk; rep from *, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec Row every RS row 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times—160 (168, 192, 204, 228, 244, 260) sts rem; 21 (22, 26, 28, 31, 35, 36) sts front; 50 (52, 60, 64, 70, 74, 80) sts back. Work 1 WS even.

Shoulder Dec Setup Row (RS) Knit to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, ssk, work to 1 st bef m, sl st, rem m, replace slipped st onto left needle k2tog, pm, work to 1 st bef m, sl st, rem m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, ssk, work to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle k2tog, pm, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Work 1 WS row. Dec Row (RS) *Work m, sl m, ssk, work to 2 sts bef m, k2tog, sl m; rep from * one more time, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec Rnd every RS Row 9 (9, 10, 10, 12, 13, 14) times—12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 20, 22) sleeve sts rem.

WS Dec Setup Row (WS) Purl to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, p2tog tbl, pm, work in pattern to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, p2tog, work to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, p2tog tbl, pm, work in pattern to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, p2tog, purl to end—4 sts reduced on sleeves, 4 sts moved from sleeves to fronts and back. Fronts and back stitch counts remain the same.

RS Dec Row (RS) * Work to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work to m, sl m, ssk; rep from *, work to end—dec’d. WS Dec Row (WS) *Work to 2 sts before m, p2tog tbl, work to m, sl m, p2tog; rep from *, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec every row 10 (10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6) more times—64 (72, 100, 112, 136, 148, 160) sts rem; 9 (10, 16, 18, 23, 27, 28) sts front; 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 18, 20) sleeve sts; 26 (28, 40, 44, 54, 58, 64) back sts.

Shape Shoulders

Shape Shoulders using Short rows as follows:

Short Row 1 (RS) Work in pattern to 1 st bef second m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, ssk, turn.

Short Row 2 (WS) Sl st, work in pattern to 1 st bef m, sl st, remove m, replace slipped st onto left needle, pm, p2tog, turn. DO NOT WORK TO END.

Short Row 3 (RS) Sl st, work 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts, ssk, turn.

Short Row 4 (WS) Sl st, work 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts, p2tog, turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 0 (0, 5, 6, 10, 12, 13) more times—8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 14) Right Front; 25 (27, 34, 37, 43, 46, 50) Back sts rem.

Repeat Short-Row sequence for Left Shoulder—8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 14) Left Front; 24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 32, 36) Back sts rem. On last repeat of Row 4, Do Not Turn. Work in pattern to end. Work 2 rows even, ending on a WS row.

Hood

Set-up Row (RS) K28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 50) pm, knit to end. Work 1 WS row even.

Inc Row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, ril, k2, sl m, k2, lli, knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 4^th row 5 more times—68 (76, 84, 92, 100, 104, 112) sts total. Work hood evenly until hood measures 11” [28 cm] from shoulder, ending on a WS row.

Shape Crown: Dec Row (RS) Work to 4 sts before m, k2tog, k2, sl m, k2, ssk, work to end—2 sts dec’d. Repeat Dec row every 4^th row once more, then every other row 3 times—58 (66, 74, 82, 90, 94, 102) sts rem.

Next Row (WS): Work even.

Next Row (RS) Work to 4 sts bef m, k2tog, k2, sl m, k2, ssk, work to end—2 sts dec’d. Repeat Dec row every RS row 3 more times, ending on a WS row—50 (58, 66, 74, 82, 86, 94) sts rem; hood measures about 13 ¾” [35 cm] from shoulders. Place 25 (29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47) sts from each half of the hood on separate needles or two halves of the same circ needle, and graft sts at top of hood using Kitchener St.

Front Band

CO 15 sts. Sl 1 st kwise, *k1, p1; repeat from * 5 more times, k2.

P2, *k1, p1; repeat from * 5 more times, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until the piece is approximately the same length (when slightly stretched) as the entire front edge of sweater (both sides), including hood. Place stitches on holder. With the right side facing, stretch the band slightly and sew it to the front edge of the body, beginning at the lower right edge. Continue until the entire edge is sewn on, adjusting the length of the band by knitting or ripping rows as necessary. When the band is completely attached BO all sts.

Finishing

Block to schematic measurements. Weave in ends.

Using crochet hook, make 8 3” [7.5 cm] chains. Folding chains in half to create loops, sew loops to underside of Right Front Band. Tip: use split ring markers to space loops out before you do any sewing. Sew buttons to the top side of the Left Front Band at matching points to the loops.