Cloth diapering is an increasingly popular choice among modern parents for a variety of reasons, ranging from concerns for the environment, to a desire to save money, to simple aesthetic preference. Although PUL (polyurethane laminate) diaper covers are ubiquitous, wool soakers are a viable—and natural—choice. Surprisingly waterproof, and comfortable in all seasons, these are many parents’ go-to solution—in fact, they’re particularly popular among notoriously heavy-wetters. Most soakers are knit in one piece, but these can be almost impossible to get onto the wiggly infant or active toddler. My goal in designing Casica was to create a well-fitting wool diaper wrap which could be applied as easily as any PUL cover. Of course, if you don’t cloth diaper but you’re simply looking for a cute option for that newborn photo shoot, Cascia still fits the bill!

Cascia is named after a small town in Italy, which my husband and I visited on our honeymoon. Although I didn’t see any cloth diapers on the line, it’s easy for me to imagine the town residents using this natural diaper cover on their little ones, and so the name was inspired.

Cascia knits up quickly, taking only a dedicated evening or two for even the largest size. The wrap features a ribbed waistband and garter stitch border for a stretchy, comfortable fit. Instructions are given for a contrasting border worked in intarsia, but the border can easily be worked in the same color as the rest of the wrap by ignoring the distinction made between the two colors. Short rows worked in the seat of the wrap compensate for the bulk of a cloth diaper, and a ribbed crotch section allows for versatile but trim sizing. The wrap is finished using button closures, snaps, or a strong hook-and-loop closure. As an added bonus, and unlike most knitting projects, Cascia can actually save you money—coming in at under $10 for materials if you use a basic workhorse yarn, it is a bit cheaper than the average PUL cover, and costs significantly less than commercially-available wool soakers.

To be properly waterproof, a wool diaper cover should be made of 100% non-superwash wool, and must be lanolized before use.

Lanolize Tutorials

View a great picture tutorial or watch the video below.

Size

Sizes are given for newborn (small, medium, large, extra large).

To fit hip size 12-16 (13-17, 14-19, 15-21, 16-23)” or 30-40 [33-43, 36-48, 38-53, 41-58] cm.

Note that the number of buttons vary by size: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) used to fasten each wing.

Yarn

Any 100% non-superwash wool in a worsted or aran weight will be appropriate. A soft merino or merino blend is probably preferred for a newborn or young infant, whereas a hardier wool will better withstand toddler antics.

Sample is knit in Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams): 77115 New Denim (MC), 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) ball; 77309 Passion Heather (CC), 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) .

Needles

Size US 6 (4 mm): straight, or size needed to get gauge

Size US 4 (3.5mm): straight, or two US sizes smaller than size needed to get gauge

Notions

Two stitch markers; tapestry needle; four to sixteen 11/16”/18 mm buttons, or sew-on snaps, or Aplix, Touchtape link, or another soft, strong hook-and-loop tape (Velcro will be easily thwarted by a toddler); flat buttons or stiff fabric to reinforce button closures (optional, but recommended if you are using buttons to close); row counter (optional)

Gauge

20 sts and 28 rows = 4” [10 cm] in st st on larger needles

Pattern Notes

The pattern is worked in one piece from back to front. Instructions have been separated into sections for ease of understanding. Sections will typically begin with a description of the stitch patterns required, followed by instructions for working the piece (so do not immediately start working the rows as outlined; rather, read the description included with the instructions). If you do not wish to work the contrasting intarsia border, simply ignore the distinction between MC and CC. If a 0 or – is given in place of a number for the size being worked, ignore that instruction and move onto the next one; the instruction does not apply to that size.

Abbreviations

Please see our standard abbreviations.

Schematic

Diaper Cover

Back Waistband

Ribbing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 5 (6, 6, 8, 8) sts rem, k5 (6, 6, 8, 8).

Buttonhole Rows

Row 1 (RS): CC: k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), BO2 beg by knitting into the next st then passing over [removing] the 2nd (2nd, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd) st that you knit, k0 (0, 0, 1, 1), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, k1 (1, 1, 2, 2), BO2 as before, k1 (1, 1, 2, 2).

Row 2 (WS): CC: k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), cable CO 2 bringing yarn to front of work before transferring second st, k- (-, -, 2, 2), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 1 (2, 2, 3, 3) sts bef BO, k1 (2, 2, 3, 3), cable CO 2 as before, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3).

Knitting instructions

Using a long-tail CO or the stretchy CO of your choice, CO 59 (62, 66, 74, 78) sts onto the smaller needles in CC, placing stitch markers after sts 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) and 41 (44, 48, 54, 58).

Rows 1-4: Work Ribbing Pattern.

Rows 5-6: If you are fastening the wrap using buttons, work Buttonhole Rows; otherwise, work Ribbing Pattern.

Rows 7-8 (7-8, 7-8, 7-12, 7-12): Work Ribbing Pattern.

If you are using a row counter, reset it to zero now. Switch to larger needles for the next section.

Back Wing/Seat of Wrap

Regular St St Rows

Note: You’re working the MC with CC bands on each edge for the buttonhole/hook and loop edges.

Row 1 (RS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: k until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

St St Short Rows

{see our tutorial on how to knit Short Rows}

Row 1 (RS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: k to second stitch marker, w&t.

Row 2 (WS): MC: p to stitch marker, w&t.

Row 3: MC: k until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, working wrap with st, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Row 4: CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, working wrap with st, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Buttonhole Rows

Row 1 (RS): CC: k3 (3, 3, 4, 4), BO2 beg by knitting into the next st then passing over [removing] the 3rd (3rd, 3rd, 4th, 4th) st that you knit, MC: k until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), BO2 as before, k1 (1, 1, 2, 2).

Row 2 (WS): CC: k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), cable CO 2 bringing yarn to front of work before transferring second st, MC: p until you reach 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) sts before BO, CC: k0 (0, 0, 1, 1), cable CO2 as before, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3).

Knitting instructions

Work on larger needles.

Rows 1-2: work Regular St St Rows.

Rows 3-6: work St St Short Rows.

Rows – ( – , – , 7-8, – ): If you are fastening the wrap using buttons, work Buttonhole Rows; otherwise, work Regular St St Rows.

Rows 7-8 (7-10, 7-12, 9-10, 7-10): work Regular St St Rows.

Rows – (- , – , – , 11-12): If you are fastening the wrap using buttons, work Buttonhole Rows; otherwise, work Regular St St Rows.

Rows 9-12 (11-14, 13-16, 11-14, 13-16): work St St Short Rows.

Rows – (15-16, 17-20, 15-18, 17-22): work Regular St St Rows.

Rows 13-14 (17-18, 21-22, – , -): If you are fastening the wrap using buttons, work the 2 Buttonhole Rows; otherwise, work 2 Regular St St Rows.

Rows 15-18 (19-22, 23-26, 19-22, 23-26): work St St Short Rows.

Rows – (- , – , 23-24, 27-30): work Regular St St Rows.

Rows – (- , – , 25-26, 31-32): If you are fastening the wrap using buttons, work Buttonhole Rows; otherwise, work Regular St St Rows.

Rows – (- , – , 27-30, 33-36): work St St Short Rows.

Remove your stitch markers as you work the next row.

Row 19 (23, 27, 31, 37): CC: ssk 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) times, k1 (0, 0, 1, 1), MC: k until 7 (8, 8, 11, 11) sts rem, CC: k1 (0, 0, 1, 1), k2tog 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) times. 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts dec’d.

Row 20 (24, 28, 32, 38): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

At this point you should have 53 (54, 58, 64, 68) sts on your needle. If you are using a row counter, reset it to zero now.

Back of Leg Hole/Crotch (Decreasing)

Unribbed Decreasing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: ssk, k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), MC: k until 5 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts rem, CC: k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), k2tog; 2 sts dec’d.

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Decreasing Short Rows

{See our tutorial on knitting short rows}

Row 1 (RS): CC: ssk, k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), MC: k33 (32, 34, 37, 39), w&t. 1 st dec’d.

Row 2 (WS): MC: p23 (22, 24, 26, 28), w&t.

Row 3: MC: k until 5 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts rem, working wrap with st, CC: k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), k2tog. 1 st dec’d.

Row 4: CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, working wrap with st, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Ribbed Decreasing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: ssk, k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), MC: work in est ribbing patt until 5 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts rem, CC: k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), k2tog. 2 sts dec’d.

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: work in est ribbing patt until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Knitting instructions

Rows – (1-2, 1-4, 1-2, 1-4): work Unribbed Decreasing Pattern. 53 (52, 54, 62, 64) sts rem.

Rows 1-4 (3-6, 5-8, 3-6, 5-8): work Decreasing Short Rows. 51 (50, 52, 60, 62) sts rem.

Rows 5-6 (7-8, 9-12, 7-10, 9-10): work Unribbed Decreasing Pattern. 49 (48, 48, 56, 60) sts rem.

Row 7 (9, 13, 11, 11): CC: ssk, k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), MC: p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 5 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts rem, CC: k3 (3, 3, 5, 5), k2tog. 47 (46, 46, 54, 58) sts rem.

Row 8 (10, 14, 12, 12): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Rows 9-26 (11-28, 15-28, 13-30, 13-32): work Ribbed Decreasing Pattern.

At this point you should have 27 (26, 30, 34, 38) sts on your needle. If you are using a row counter, reset it to zero now.

Crotch Section (Even Width)

Knitting instructions

Work as follows until piece measures 8 (9, 10.5, 11.5, 12.5)” or 20 [23, 27, 29, 32] cm from the center of the CO edge (measuring in the center will account for the additional length added by the short rows):

All rows: CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: work in est ribbing until 4 (4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Front of Leg Hole/Crotch (Increasing)

Ribbed Increasing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: k1, m1R, k2 (2, 2, 4, 4), MC: work in est ribbing until 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) sts rem, CC: k2 (2, 2, 4, 4), m1L, k1. 2 sts inc’d.

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: work in est ribbing until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Unribbed Increasing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: k1, m1R, k2 (2, 2, 4, 4) MC: k until 3 (3, 3, 5, 5) sts rem, CC: k2 (2, 2, 4, 4), m1L, k1. 2 sts inc’d.

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Knitting instructions

Rows 1-6 (1-10, 1-10, 1-10, 1-10): work Ribbed Increasing Pattern.

Rows 7-8 (11-12, 11-12, 11-12, 11-12): work Unribbed Increasing Pattern.

At this point you should have 35 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts on your needle. If you are using a row counter, reset it to zero now.

Front Flap

Knitting instructions

Work as follows until piece measures 12 (13, 15, 16.5, 18.5)” or 30 (33, 38, 42, 47) cm from the center of the CO edge:

Odd rows (RS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: k until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Even rows (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), MC: p until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Switch to smaller needles for the next section.

Front Waistband

Ribbing Pattern

Row 1 (RS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Row 2 (WS): CC: k4 (4, 4, 6, 6), k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), *p1 (2, 2, 2, 2), k1 (2, 2, 2, 2), rep from * until 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts rem, k4 (4, 4, 6, 6).

Knitting instructions

Rows 1-8 (1-8, 1-8, 1-12, 1-12): on smaller needles, work Ribbing Pattern.

BO loosely in patt. I recommend binding off using larger needles, or two needles held together, to ensure a stretchy edge.

Finishing

Weave in all ends. Sew buttons, snaps, or hook-and-loop tape onto wrap in desired position. You may wish to mark desired position with wrap on child for accurate placement. If you are using buttons, I strongly recommend affixing flat buttons or stiff fabric to the WS of the diaper wrap to reinforce; otherwise, the diaper wrap is easily pulled out of shape. Attach buttons or snaps in a position that will leave the diaper securely fastened around your child’s hips, or attach multiple buttons or snaps across the front for increased adjustability (like the pic on the right). If you are using hook-and-loop tape, I recommend affixing hook side to back wings and loop side to front panel. Additionally, you should place a piece of loop tape towards the middle of the back wings on each side to be used to secure the hook tape during washing (see diagram below).

At this time, you should wash and lanolize your diaper (see our links above). After lanolizing, shape and lay flat to dry.

If you used buttons or snaps, check these regularly to be sure that they are securely attached; loose buttons and snaps pose a choking hazard.