Eunice Ewe is sturdy enough to sit alone, and she’s so very cuddly – but that’s not all. She has the same dimensions of a very popular 18” doll (which has more than 8,000 clothing knitting patterns on Ravelry). You can select your favorites to make Eunice the best-dressed Ewe around.

This pattern assumes knowledge of basic knitting. You will need to know knit and purl stitches, how to cast on and bind off, and how to increase and decrease. In addition, some intermediate techniques are used: I-cord, short rows (see our tutorial), knitting in the round, the seaming of flat pieces, Magic Loop, and simple embroidery. Experience in knitting toys would be very helpful in making this pattern, but the detailed directions and photos I’ve supplied throughout the pattern should help if you’ve never made a stuffed animal before.

If you prefer videos, I recommend the site knittinghelp.com for instructional videos for all of the techniques mentioned above.

Happy Knitting!

Yarns

All these yarns are readily available in yarn shops or internet sites.

Yarn A: Cascade Yarns “Magnum”. Color 0010, White. One skein.

Yarn B: Plymouth Yarns “Arequipa Aventura”. Color 01, Ecru, two skeins; or Henry’s Attic “Mikado lll”, Natural. One Skein.

Yarn C: Brown Sheep Lanaloft Bulky Weight 100% wool, Color 01, Cottage White. One skein.

2 yards of scrap yarn, black bulky, for embroidering the face.

A strong worsted weight scrap yarn of a similar color as Yarns A and B for seaming, if necessary.

Needles

Size 11 circular needles, 24 inch

Size 9 needles, straight or circular

Size 7 double pointed needles

Size 7 needles, straight or circular

Gauge

9 ½ stitches and 15 rows = 4”/10cm, with a swatch made with Yarns A and B held together.

Notions

Tapestry needle

Row/Stitch markers

20 oz. bag of polyester fiberfill for stuffing

Although it is not strictly necessary to do a gauge swatch since this is not a garment, getting gauge will ensure that your animal is made with a nice tight fabric which will not show stuffing through the stitches. Better yet, if you meet the gauge, your animal will be the correct size to borrow knitting patterns from 18-inch dolls.

Abbreviations

Please see our standard abbreviations.

Sewing Hints

When using yarn that threatens to pull apart, add strength by twisting it. If the yarn still proves too delicate, use a stronger, similar-colored yarn from a different project.

When seaming flat pieces, I bend the edges in and hold them together with my left hand while I stitch with my right hand – this puts less pressure on the sewing yarn. Since the pieces are knit in reverse stockinette stitch, I pass the needle through purl stitches offset from each other on either side, like a zipper. The sewing yarn should not be visible.

Pattern Instructions

Head

The back of the head is worked in reverse stockinette stitch (purl stitches are facing). The sheep’s face is worked on smaller needles with Yarn A only, in regular stockinette stitch.

Starting at the back of the head, with size 11 needles, CO 8 sts with yarns A and B held together. Knit first seven rows fairly loosely.

Row 1 (RS): Purl

Row 2: k1, (k1, m1) 6 times, k1; 14 sts

Row 3: Purl

Row 4: (K2, m1), 6 times, K2; 20 sts

Row 5: Purl

Row 6: k1, (m1, K3) 6 times, k1; 27 sts

Row 7: Purl

Row 8: Knit

Rows 9-14: Rep rows 7 and 8

Cut Yarn B and work with Yarn A only. You will now be working stockinette stitch instead of reverse stockinette stitch. Change to size 9 needles.

Row 15:  Knit

Row 16: Purl

Rows 17-20: Rep Rows 15 and 16

Row 21: SSK, k2, ssk, k2, ssk, k7, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog; 21 sts

Row 22: Purl

Row 23: SSK, k2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k2, k2tog; 17 sts

Row 24: Purl

Row 25: SSK, ssk, k9, k2tog, k2tog; 13 sts

Row 26: Purl

Row 27: SSK, ssk, k5, k2tog, k2tog; 9 sts

Row 28: Purl

Row 29: SSK, k5, k2tog; 7 sts

Row 30: Purl

Cut yarn, leaving a nine-inch length to seam with. Draw yarn through all stitches two times to form the nose. (See photo) Pull tight, being careful not to break the yarn. If Yarn A is too delicate, try using Yarn C.

Sew the seam under the chin. Knot and cut sewing yarn, hide ends. Stuff the face and head with polyfill. Tie a new piece of yarn at the back of the head (on the wrong side) and sew through each of the original cast-on stitches. Pull together gently. Make two stitches to close it into a tight circle, then continue stitching the seam until the head is closed. Sew as neatly as you can and try to hide the stitches if possible. Knot the yarn and hide the end inside the head. I call this the “Ice Cream Cone Stage”.

Horns

Use Yarn C (Lanaloft), and size 7 double pointed needles.

Tips for horn making: Because of all the wraps, I find it almost impossible to locate my place in the pattern if I get lost (and I sometimes do). To combat this, I recommend keeping close track of which row you are on. I write down each row as I start it on a piece of scratch paper, and then cross it out when I’ve finished the row. I also count the stitches on my needles at almost every row.

The horns will look slightly different from each other; this is by design. It gives your sheep character.

Left Horn (with the head facing you)

Starting at horn tip. The purl ridges will be the front side of the horn. To begin, knit two rows of a 3-stitch I-cord on size 7 double pointed needles.

Row 3 (Still working as an I-cord): k1, m1, k1, m1, k1; 5 sts

Row 4 (Still working as an I-cord): K3, m1, k2; 6 sts

At this point arrange stitches on three DPNs, two to a needle, with a row marker to the left of the working yarn.

Row 5: K

Row 6: P1, K4, w&t, p3, w&t, K4

Row 7: K5, w&t, p4, w&t, K5

Row 8: P2, k1, m1, k3; 7sts

Row 9: K3, m1, k4; 8 sts

Row 10: P2, k5, m1, w&t, p6, w&t, k7; 9 sts

Row 11: K8, w&t, p6, w&t, k7

Row 12: P3, k5, w&t, p6, w&t, k3, m1, k4; 10 sts

Row 13: K7, w&t, p5, w&t, k8

At this point put a small amount of stuffing into the horn tip, as this will be very difficult to do later. Continue to add bits of stuffing as you progress, bending the horn gently counter-clockwise.

Row 14: K7, m1, k1, w&t, p7, w&t, k8; 11 sts

Row 15: P4, k1, m1, K3, w&t, p6, w&t, k9; 12 sts

Row 16: K7, w&t, p5, w&t, k6, m1, k4; 13 sts

Row 17: P6, K4, w&t, p6, w&t, k9

Row 18: K5, m1, k8; 14 sts

Row 19: k14

Row 20: P7, k7

Row 21: K14

Row 22: K14

Row 23: P8, m1, K3, w&t, p5, w&t, k8; 15 sts

Row 24: K9, m1, K6 (16 sts

Row 25: K12, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, m1, k5; 17 sts

Row 26: P8, k9

Row 27: K9, m1, k4, w&t, p7, w&t, k11; 18 sts

Row 28: K18

Row 29: K18

Row 30: P9, k9

Row 31: K18

Row 32: K15, w&t, p7, w&t, k11

Row 33: P10, k3, m1, k5; 19 sts

Row 34: K15, w&t, p8, w&t, k12

Row 35: K19

Row 36: P 10, k9

Row 37: K19

Row 38: K19

Row 39:  K11, w&t, p8, w&t, k16

Row 40: P10, k4, w&t, p9, w&t, k15

Row 41: K9, m1, k6, w&t, p8, w&t, k11; 20 sts

Row 42: K20

Row 43: P10, k10

Row 44: K20

Row 45:  K16, w&t, p11, w&t, k11, m1, K3; 21 sts

Row 46: P10, k7, w&t, p11, w&t, k15

Row 47:  K15, w&t, p10, w&t, k16

Row 48: P11, k4, m1, k2, w&t, p11, w&t, k17; 22 sts

Row 49: K22

Row 50: K22

Row 51: P12, k10

Row 52:  K13, w&t, p8, w&t, k17

Row 53: K22

Row 54: P11, k11

Row 55:  K15, w&t, p10, w&t, k17

Begin shaping the opening of the horn

Row 56: Remove row marker. BO3, k18. Turn work; 19 sts

Row 57: BO3, p15; 16 sts

Row 58: BO2, p6, k5, w&t, p8, w&t, k11; 14 sts

Arrange all stitches on two needles.

Row 59: BO2, P11; 12 sts

Row 60: BO2, P5, K2, w&t, P6, w&t, K8; 10 sts

Row 61: BO2, P7; 8 sts

Row 62: Bind off remaining 8 sts.

Right Horn

Starting at tip; the purl ridges will be the front of the horn. Knit two rows of a 3-stitch I-cord on size 7 double pointed needles.

Row 3: (Still working as an I-cord): k1, m1, k1, m1, k1; 5 sts

Row 4: (Still working as an I-cord): K3, m1, k2; 6 sts

At this point arrange stitches on three DPNs, two to a needle, with a row marker to the left of the working yarn.

Row 5: K

Row 6: K4, w&t, p3, w&t, k4, p1

Row 7: K5, w&t, p4, w&t, k5

Row 8: K3, m1, k1, p2; 7sts

Row 9: K3, m1, k4; 8 sts

Row 10: K5, m1, k1, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, p3 ; 9 sts

Row 11: K4, w&t, p3, w&t, k7

Row 12: K5, m1, k3, w&t, p6, w&t, k4, p3 ; 10 sts

Row 13: K7, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, p3

At this point put a small amount of stuffing into the horn tip, as this will be very difficult to do later. Continue to add bits of stuffing as you progress, bending the horn gently clockwise.

Row 14: K3, m1, k3, w&t, p5, w&t, k9; 11 sts

Row 15: K4, m1, k2, w&t, p5, w&t, k10; 12 sts

Row 16: K7, w&t, p5, w&t, k5, m1, k1, p4; 13 sts

Row 17: K8, w&t, p6, w&t, k11

Row 18: K4, m1, k9; 14 sts

Row 19: K7, p6

Row 20: K14

Row 21: K6, m1, K2, w&t, p7, w&t, k6, p7; 15 sts

Row 22: K7, m1, K8; 16 sts

Row 23: K4, m1, K4, w&t, P7, w&t, k15; 17 sts

Row 24: K9, p8

Row 25: K6, m1, K2, w&t, P7, w&t, k16 (18 sts

Row 26: K18

Row 27: K18

Row 28: K9, P9

Row 29: K12, w&t, p9, w&t, k15

Row 30: K8, m1, k10; 19 sts

Row 31: K12, w&t, p9, w&t, k7, p10

Row 32: K11, w&t, p9, w&t, k16

Row 33: K19

Row 34: K8, p11

Row 35: K19

Row 36: K15, w&t, p8, w&t, k12

Row 37: K4, m1, k3, p12; 20 sts

Row 38: k16, w&t, p9, w&t, k13

Row 39: K20

Row 40: K7, p13

Row 41: K20

Row 42: K16, w&t, p9, w&t, k13

Row 43: K4, m1, k12 w&t, p9, w&t, p13; 21 sts

Row 44: K17, w&t, p11, w&t, k16

Row 45: K6, m1, k11, w&t, p11, w&t, k15; 22 sts

Row 46: K9, p13

Row 47: K22

Row 48: K22

Row 49: k17, w&t, p10, w&t, k15

Row 50: K9, p13

Row 51: K22

Row 52: K15, w&t, p11, w&t, k18

Row 53: K22

Begin shaping the opening of the horn:

Row 54: Remove row marker. BO3, k4, p14. Turn work.;19 sts

Row 55: BO3, p15; 16 sts

Row 56: BO2, k10, w&t, p8, w&t, k11; 14 sts

Arrange all stitches on two needles.

Row 57: BO2, p11; 12 sts

Row 58: BO2, p7, w&t, p6, w&t, k8; 10 sts

Row 59: BO2, P7; 8 sts

Row 60: Bind off remaining 8 sts.

Ears

The ears are worked with one strand of Yarn C and size 7 needles. You can make two at once.

CO 11 sts, with a 12” tail for sewing with later.

Row 1: Purl – this will be the inside of the ear

Row 2: Knit

Row 3: Purl

Row 4: Knit

Row 5: Purl

Row 6: K5, m1, k1, m1, k5; 13 sts

Row 7: Purl

Row 8: K6, m1, k1, m1, k6; 15 sts

Row 9: Purl

Row 10: K7, m1, k1, m1, K7; 17 sts

Row 11: Purl

Row 12: K2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k2; 15 sts

Row 13: Purl

Row 14: K2, ssk, k7, k2tog, k2; 13 sts

Row 15: Purl

Row 16: K2, ssk, k5, k2tog, k2; 11 sts

Row 17: Purl

Row 18: K2, ssk, k3, k2tog, k2; 9 sts

Row 19: Purl

Row 20: K2, ssk, k1, k2tog, K2 ;7 sts

Row 21: Purl

Row 22: K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1; 5 sts

Row 23: Purl

Cut yarn, leaving a seven-inch tail. Thread tail through stitches and pull tight. Make a stitch at tip where the edge rolls in and meets. Make a small knot, hide yarn, and cut end. I do this by threading the yarn through a few of the knit stitches that have rolled over at the edge. (See photos)

Head Assembly

Attaching the horns

Locate the central line of stitches running up the nose. (See photo.) You want to sew the horns two purl rows up from the forehead, on either side of the central line, with the central stitch separating them (see photo). Make sure the horn is firmly stuffed near the opening, and that the horn is nice and rounded where it meets the head so that it will stand off the head a bit. Also, make sure you are sewing the correct horn on the correct side – the purl ridges should face the front of the head.

Begin sewing the horn onto the head with Yarn C, curling the edge of the horn underneath so that it is hidden from view. Do this by catching a stitch from above the edge. (See photo.)

Attaching the ears

The ears should have about a half-inch of rolled edges at the bottom. Using the long tail, stitch the rolled edges together with a few small stitches. Sew the ears, rolled sides toward the front, at the location marked with the blue string in the above photo.

Embroidering the face

Eyes: Using a length of dark gray scrap yarn (I use Lanaloft), count four rows down from the forehead and three stitches to the right and left of the central line of stitches. (See photo). Pull yarn through from a spot near the chin and out at the marked eye location. Make a stitch that is one and a half stitches wide but before pulling it through, wrap the working yarn five times around the needle to make a bullion embroidery stitch. Put the needle back into the same place and bring it out on the other side of the head, ready to begin eye number two. (See photo) Trim yarn ends.

Nose: The aim is to make a tidy embroidered satin stitch triangular nose over the final seven stitches of the head. Using the same yarn, make four neatly stacked, tightly packed stitches. The last tiny stitch will begin the mouth. (See photo).

Mouth: Make two stitches for the mouth, anchoring them below the nose. Trim all yarn ends.

Torso

Use yarns A and B held together. Starting at the neck and finishing at the bottom, CO 12 sts using size 11 needles.

Row 1 (RS): Purl

Row 2:  K2, (m1, k2) 5 times; 17 sts

Row 3:  Purl

Row 4:  K2, (m1, k3) 5 times; 22 sts

Row 5:  Purl

Row 6:  K2, (m1, k4) 5 times; 27 sts

Row 7: Purl

Row 8: Knit

Row 9: Purl

Row 10 (waist decreases): K6, ssk, K4, ssk, K5, k2tog, K6; 24 sts

Row 11: Purl

Row 12: K7, ssk, K6, k2tog, K7; 22 sts

Row 13: Purl

Row 14: (hip increases) K2, (m1, K4) 5 times; 27 sts

Both ends of Row 15 have several short rows to start rounding out the bottom

Row 15: P8, w&t, k8, turn, p7, w&t, k7, turn, p to end of row – picking up all wraps, turn, k8, w&t, p8, turn, k7, w&t, p7; 27 sts

Work hip joints

For next section work stitches 1 – 7 only.

Row 1: K7. Turn work.

Row 2: BO 2 sts, p4; 5 sts

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: BO 2 sts, p2; 3 sts

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: BO 1, p1; 2 sts

Row 7: BO remaining sts. Half of left hip joint made.

For this section work next 13 middle stitches only.

Join new yarn

Row 1: K13. Turn work.

Row 2: BO 2 sts, p10; 11 sts

Row 3: BO 2 sts, k8; 9 sts

Row 4: BO 2 sts, p6; 7 sts

Row 5: BO 2 sts, k4; 5 sts

Row 6: BO 2 sts, p2; 3 sts

Row 7: BO 1 st, k1; 2 sts

Row 8: BO remaining 2 sts.

For last section work the last 7 stitches.

Join new yarn

Row 1: BO 2, k4; 5 sts

Row 2: P

Row 3: BO 2, k2; 3 sts

Row 4: P

Row 5: BO 1, k1; 2 sts

Row 6: BO remaining two sts.

Weave in all ends.

Legs

Left Leg

Note: It’s the left leg as the body is facing you.

Starting at the foot, CO 18 sts in Yarn A on size 11 needles, leaving a 12” tail for seaming with later. Right and Left legs are the same through row 17.

(Rows 1 – 6 are the foot)

Row 1 (RS): K

Row 2: P5, BO 8, p4 (you will have 5 sts, a gap of 8 bound-off sts, 5 sts on your needle)

Row 3: K5, skip the 8 bound-off sts, k5. Make sure to pull stitch tight between sections; 10 sts – note that there is no gap between the first 5 and last 5 sts.

Row 4: P10

Add Yarn B, work with both yarns held together from this point.

Row 5: P10

Row 6: Knit

Row 7: Purl

Rows 8-11: Work Rows 6 and 7 above

Row 12: Knit

Row 13 (Short rows for knee): P8, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p6 (to end of row)

Row 14: K1, m1, k8, m1, k1; 12 sts

Row 15: Purl

Row 16: Knit

Row 17: P1, m1, p10, m1, p1; 14 sts

Row 18: Knit

Now follow the below directions for the correct foot.

Upper Left Leg

Row 19: BO5, p9; 10 sts

Row 20: BO1, k8; 9 sts

Row 21: BO1, p7; 8 sts

Row 22: BO1, k6; 7 sts

Row 23: BO1, p5; 6 sts

Row 24: BO1, k4; 5 sts

Row 25: BO1, p3; 4 sts

Row 26: BO1, k2; 3 sts

Row 27: BO all 3 sts. 

Upper Right Leg

This section starts with 14 sts from the foot/knee section.

Row 18: BO1, p12; 13 sts

Row 19: BO5, k8; 9 sts

Row 20: BO1, p7; 8 sts

Row 21: BO1, k6; 7 sts

Row 22: BO1, p5; 6 sts

Row 23: BO1, k4; 5 sts

Row 24: BO1, p3; 4 sts

Row 25: BO1, k2; 3 sts

Row 26: BO all 3 sts

Foot Soles, Right and Left

Using Yarn A and size 11 needles. CO 3 sts.

Row 1: K2, m1, k1; 4 sts

Row 2: P

Row 3: (K1, m1) 3 times, k1; 7 sts

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: SSK, k3, k2tog; 5 sts

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: SSK, k1, k2tog; 3 sts

Row 10: BO 3 sts, leaving a 9-inch tail to sew with.

Assembling the Feet and Legs: With the length of yarn A left from casting on, sew the heel of the foot shut. (See photo) Sew sole to the foot, making sure that the knit rows line up front to back. (See photo) Stuff foot. Make eight wide stitches across the top of the foot (See photo) and then make three small stitches along the left edge to imitate the bind off stitches on the right side.

Sew seam up the back of the leg, adding stuffing as you go and making the seam one and a half stitches in on both sides to make the limb firm. Stop at the first row of bind-offs. Do the same with the other leg. Trim all ends.

Arms

Both arms are the same until row 22.

The arm starts at the “mitten” hand. I find that doing the magic loop technique using size 11 circular needles is the easiest method for the start of the hand, but you can use DPNs if you prefer. Be sure to keep your knitting loose during the first few rounds, it will make it easier to do the increases.

Using Yarn A, CO 4 loose sts. (For the arms, I cast on using both needles to form extra-wide loops) Work in the round, as if you were starting an I-cord. Slide your cast-on sts to the other end of the circular needles.

Row 1: Kfb each stitch; 8 sts – this step sometimes takes me two or three tries to get it right, but the results are worth it.

You’ll switch to Magic Loop to work in the round at this point. Slide work to center of circular needles and pull the circular needle cord through between stitches 4 and 5.

Rnd 2: K1, place marker, K8; 8 sts

Rnd 3: K2, m1, k4, m1, k2; 10 sts

Rnd 5: Knit

Rnd 6: K4, kfb, k5; 11 sts

You’ll now separate for the thumb

Rnd 7: K4

Working only on stitches 5 and 6

Thumb row 1: K2, turn

Thumb row 2: P2, turn

Thumb rows 3-6: repeat above 2 times

Thumb row 7: K2 (do not turn)

Row 7 continued from above: fold thumb in half, K5, making sure to keep connecting stitches tight; 11 sts

Rnd 8: K4, k2 thumb stitches (keeping tight), k5

Rnd 9: K4, ssk (the two under-thumb sts, k5; 10 sts

After this point the work will switch from working in the round to flat. The opening will be under the thumb. You will need to continue to use Magic Loop (or DPNs) for several rows.

Add Yarn B. Hold both yarns together.

Row 10: (This row involves some back-and-forth): Purl 4. Turn work. K4. Remove row marker. K6. Turn work. You are now set up to work flat.

Row 11: Purl. (Continue to turn after each row.)

Row 12: Knit

Row 13: Purl

Rows 14-16: Rep Rows 11 and 12

Somewhere around Row 15, you can stop working magic loop (or stop using DPNs) and work back and forth in the usual manner.

Row 17 (Short rows for elbow): P8, w&t, k6, w&t, p5, w&t, k4, w&t, p7

Row 18: K2, m1, K8; 11 sts

Row 19: Purl

Row 20: K9, m1, K2; 12 sts

Put a marker of some sort on the thumb of the left hand to help you remember which arm it is.

Upper Left Arm (with the animal facing you)

Row 21: BO1, P10; 11 sts

Row 22: BO3, K7; 8 sts

Row 23: BO1, P6; 7 sts

Row 24 (short row to shape the shoulder): BO1, k3, w&t, p3, w&t, K5; 6 sts

Row 25 (short row): BO1, p2, w&t, k2, w&t, p4; 5 sts

Row 26 (short row): BO1, k1, w&t, P1, w&t, k3; 4 sts

Row 27: BO all sts

Upper Right Arm

You will already have worked rows 1-20 from above. You will start this section with 12 sts.

Row 21: BO3, P8; 9 sts

Row 22: BO1, K7; 8 sts

Row 23 (short rows to shape shoulder): BO1, p4, w&t, k3, w&t, p5; 7 sts

Row 24 (short row): BO1, k3, w&t, p2, w&t, k4; 6 sts

Row 25 (short row): BO1, p3, w&t, k3, w&t, p4; 5 sts

Row 26: BO1, k3; 4 sts

Row 27: BO remaining stitches

With a tapestry needle and Yarn A, hand-stitch 4 stitches to close both sides of thumbs. Stuff hands lightly. With same yarn or new yarn, close up arm seams, stuffing arms very lightly as you go. Put extra stuffing at the shoulders to make them rounded. Sew arms onto body, making sure that the thumbs are on the inside.

Assembling the Body

Torso: Fold sides in toward center, making sure that the purl side is out. (See Photo) Form the crotch by stitching together the two back pieces, then sewing them to the front. Continue this seam to ¾ up the back, folding two edge stitches on both sides inward as you go. Extra stitches have been allowed in the pattern for this. (See photo) The fabric should be stiff enough to more or less stand on its own.

Hips: Making sure the correct leg is in the correct hip socket (foot facing forward, torso seam at back), fit leg in torso and sew in place, twisting the yarn to make the joint stronger if necessary. (See photo) Leave the hip joint unstuffed, so that your sheep will sit nicely.

Stuffing the Torso: Pull out any stuffing that is still in the hip joint. Fill torso with stuffing. Pad the bottom area with extra stuffing. Train your animal to sit by bending the hip joints and sitting it on the edge of a table and bearing down gently on the torso.

Finish the torso seam along the spine, pulling in the edges about an inch on each side; the extra bulk of the seaming will add strength to the pose. I usually make the seam about three stitches out from both edges, especially in the small of the back. (See photo)

At the top of the back, sew through each of the original neck cast-on stitches and pull them together. Knot the sewing yarn and hide the end.

Hands and Arms: Draw the length of yarn left from casting on through the hand and out at the base of the thumb. Make two or three tidy stitches on each side of the thumb. (See photo) Push a small amount of stuffing into the hand. Continue stitching up the arm in the same manner the leg was stitched up. (See photo) Stop at the first row of bind-offs. Do the same with the other arm. Trim all ends.

Attaching the arms: Put a small amount of stuffing in the short rows of the top of the arm to round out the shoulder; add more as necessary as the arm is sewn onto the body. Making sure the correct arm is in the correct position (thumb toward the inside), position the arms so that they are along the center line and about an inch from the center of the neck. (See photo; looking down on the torso from above) Fold edge of arm under as you sew and pick up the stitch one away from the edge.

Stitch head to torso. Go around twice to give added strength.

You are finished!

Now, go find some of the eight thousand beautiful patterns for 18-inch dolls on Ravelry and dress your new friend. Look for patterns that have button closures.

Thank you! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.