This shawl is easy enough for a beginner, but stimulating enough for an experienced knitter. The pattern alternates an easy lace stitch with garter stitch and is finished off with a chevron stitch.
It looks great with almost any kind of yarn: handspun, solid colors, gradients or tweeds. This shawl can also be made with a wide range of yarn weights: fingering to worsted weight.
Lion Brand Shawl in a Ball (61% Cotton, 34% Acrylic, 5% Other; 518 yards [473 meters]/150 grams): Color 300 Om Opal, 1 ball
Size US 6 (4 mm): 32” circular (for fingering/sport yarn)
Size US 7 (4.5 mm): 32” circular (for DK/worsted yarn)
Tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook (for ends)
17 sts and 25 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st on US 8 as given on Shawl in a Ball
You may choose from a range of yarn weights, fingering to worsted, and will require approx 420-520 yds
Please see our standard abbreviations.
The shawl is made from the tip to the wide end with increases made on every other row.
dd (double decrease) = slip 1 st as if to knit, k2tog, psso
cdd (centered double decrease) = slip 2 sts together as if to work a k2tog, k1, p2sso (or see our tutorial on the cdd)
This isn’t a chart for you to follow per se, but rather a few suggestions on how to incorporate the increases while still keeping the stitch pattern.
CO 2 sts. Work back and forth.
Row 1 (WS): K2.
Row 2 (RS): K1, kfb; 3 sts.
Row 3 (WS): Knit.
Row 4 (RS): Knit to last st, kfb; 1 st inc’d.
Rep rows 3-4 until you have 13 sts ending with a row 3.
Begin Chart A or follow written instructions below.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, kfb; 1 st inc’d.
The last 7 sts of each row will finish slightly differently as your shawl grows. Fill in the “extra” sts with knit sts. You can work a half rep if you have 4 sts rem (as long as you include the corresponding yo with the dec). You can finish with a yo right before the kfb (see charted example for more help).
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K2, *yo, dd, yo, k3*, rep from * to * to last st, kfb; 1 st inc’d.
Finish row 3 as you did for row 1 by “filling in” the extra sts with plain knit sts. Because of the double decreases, you cannot work a half rep for this row.
Row 4: Purl.
Rep rows 1-4 twice more (three reps total).
Row 1 (RS): Knit to last st, kfb; 1 st inc’d.
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Rep Rows 1-2 four times more (five reps total).
Rep Lace Stitch and Garter Stitch Sections ending with a row 4 of the Lace Stitch. The number of sts and exact amount of yarn you have left doesn’t really matter. You need enough yarn to work about 2-3″ or 5-7 cm more (plus the BO).
Begin Chart B or follow the written instructions below.
Notes: This section uses a cdd (centered double decrease) which is slightly different than the dd (double decrease) that you were making before. See Special Stitches above.
This section has edge sts worked at the beg of the RS row that are not shown on the chart.
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo *cdd, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, rep from * to close to the end (as with the Lace Stitch). Knit the rem sts to the last st, kfb; 2 sts inc’d.
Because of the cdd’s, you cannot work a half rep for this row.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Rep rows 1-2 until you nearly run out of yarn (leaving enough for the BO) ending with a row 2. BO loosely.
Weave in ends. Wet block and lay flat to dry pinning out the points along the BO edge (or block according to your fibre content).
About the Designer: Kelly McClure (Bohoknits)
Kelly has been knitting for 30 years and has been designing for 10 years. Her designs have appeared in stores across North America and she has even taught knitting in Nepal.
She usually knits all day long, but she also enjoys dyeing yarn and wandering around in the woods with her dog, Lois. She lives and works in Ontario, Canada.