The “Onda su Onda” shawl is knit top down.
Then the first section of the shawl is worked in a simple garter stitch.
The work continues with a high, lacey border that adds a touch of refined elegance to the shawl.
We updated the key for Chart C on January 5, 2021.
Size
70 ¾ inches (180 cm) – along the longer edge and 20 ¾ inches – 52 cm – along the center section (after blocking)
Yarn
JUNIPER MOON FARM Findley (50% wool and 50% silk; 730 m – 798 yd / 100 gr – 3.53 oz. skein): 23 Snow, 1 ball.
Needles
3.5 mm – US 4 with a 80 cm – 32 inches cable
Notions
Tapestry needle and accessories for blocking.
Gauge
18 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm – 4 inches in garter stitch (after blocking).
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
elastic BO: if this is new to you, please, have a look at my video (in Italian):
(the explanation is in Italian, but the pictures provide a good tutorial guide)
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked from the top down in one piece.
Charts
Chart A
Chart B
Chart C
Chart D
Pattern
Section 1 (increases)
CO 7 sts.
Row 1 (RS): kfb three times, k1, kfb three times; 13 sts.
Row 2 and all even rows (WS): k to end of row.
Row 3: k2, kfb nine times, k2; 22 sts.
Row 5: k2, kfb six times, k to 8 sts before end of row, kfb six times, k2; 34 sts.
Row 1a (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 38 sts.
Row 2a (WS): k to end of row.
Repeat rows 1a and 2a 52 more times; 246 sts.
Section 2 (increases – lace stitch A)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 250sts.
Row 2 and all even rows (WS): k2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.
Row 3: k2, kfb twice, k2, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times, repeat from * to 6 sts before end of row, k2, kfb twice, k2; 254 sts.
Row 5: k2, kfb twice, k4, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times*, repeat from * to 8 sts before end of row, k4, kfb twice, k2; 258 sts.
Row 7: k2, kfb twice, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 10 sts before end of row, p3, k3, kfb twice, k2; 262 sts.
Row 9: k2, kfb twice, p2, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 12 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p2, kfb twice, k2; 266 sts.
Row 11: k2, kfb twice, p4, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 14 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p4, kfb twice, k2; 270 sts.
Section 3 (increases – lace stitch B)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 274 sts.
Row 2 and all even rows (WS): k2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.
Row 3: k2, kfb twice, k5, [k1, yo] three times, k2tog three times, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times, repeat from * to 18 sts before end of row, ssk three times, [yo, k1] three times, k5, kfb twice, k2; 278 sts.
Row 5: k2, kfb twice, ssk twice, k1, [k1, yo] five times, k2tog three times, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times, repeat from * to 20 sts before end of row, ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, k1, ssk twice, kfb twice, k2; 282 sts.
Row 7: k2, kfb twice, p4, k3, p5, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*. Repeat from * to 22 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p5, k3, p4, kfb twice, k2; 286 sts.
Row 9: k2, kfb twice, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, repeat from * to 7 sts before end of row, p3, kfb twice, k2; 290 sts.
Row 11: k2, kfb twice, k2, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*. Repeat from * to * to 9 sts before end of row, p3, k2, kfb twice, k2; 294 sts.
Section 4 (increases – lace stitch C)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 298 sts.
Row 2 and all even rows (WS): k2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.
Row 3: k2, kfb twice, [k1, yo] three times, k2tog three times, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times, repeat from * to 13 sts before end of row, ssk three times, [yo, k1] three times, kfb twice, k2; 302 sts.
Row 5: k2, kfb twice, k2, [k1, yo] three times, k2tog three times, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times*. Repeat from * to * to 15 sts before end of row, ssk three times, [yo, k1] three times, k2, kfb twice, k2; 306 sts.
Row 7: k2, kfb twice, k2, p5, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, repeat from * to 17 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p5, k2, kfb twice, k2, 310 sts.
Row 9: k2, kfb twice, p1, k3, p5, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 19 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p5, k3, p1, kfb twice, k2; 314 sts.
Row 11: k2, kfb twice, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 318 sts.
Section 5 (increases – lace stitch D)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 322 sts.
Row 2 and all even rows (WS): k2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.
Row 3: k2, kfb twice, k4, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times, repeat from *to 8 sts before end of row, k4, kfb twice, k2; 326 sts.
Row 5: k2, kfb twice, k6, *ssk three times, [yo, k1] five times, yo, k2tog three times*, repeat from * * to 10 sts before end of row, k6, kfb twice, k2; 330 sts.
Row 7: k2, kfb twice, p2, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 12 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p2, kfb twice, k2; 334 sts.
Row 9: k2, kfb twice, p4, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 14 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p4, kfb twice, k2; 338 sts.
Row 11: k2, kfb twice, k1, p5, k3, p3, *p3, k3, p5, k3, p3*, repeat from * to 16 sts before end of row, p3, k3, p5, k1, kfb twice, k2; 342 sts.
Section 4 (band and BO)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb twice, k to 4 sts before end of row, kfb twice, k2; 346 sts.
Row 2 (WS): k2, p to 2 sts before end of row, k2.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 another 3 times; 358 sts.
Row 1a (RS): k1, *k2tog, yo, ssk*., repeat from * to 1 st before end of row, k1.
Row 2a (WS): p1, *p1, [p1, k1, p1] in the yo, p1*, repeat from * to 1 st before end of row, k1.
BO in purl stitch using an elastic BO.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block aggressively.
To block: wash the shawl in cold water with a small amount of gentle detergent; rinse. Squeeze the shawl between your hands, without twisting, to remove most of the water.
Spread the shawl out on a large towel and roll it up into a cylindrical form, then press it well to remove all of the excess water. Unroll the towel and spread the shawl out on a blocking board or large, flat, soft surface that you can poke the pins into.
Stretch the shawl to the finished measurements indicated in the instructions, using a tape measure to check the dimensions. Pin the shawl down to hold its shape, placing the pins about 1 inch apart, being careful to push them firmly into the surface (or blocking board if using).
As an alternative, you can use blocking wires which facilitate and speed up the blocking process.
Allow to dry.
About the Designer: Valentina Cosciani
I live in Trieste, Italy with my family. In the past I have been a painter, but now I dedicate all my time to knit and create new designs. I also teach in some of the largest Italian cities (Milan, Florence, Genoa, Bologna, Rome, …).
My activities are supported by my blog, by my Facebook page and all my designs are available on my Ravelry page. Some of my designs have been chosen by the Italian magazine “Magliabimbi” and by the Danish magazine “Strikken”. I’ve been fortunate to have collaborations with some yarn companies, e.g. BG Garn, Katia Yarns and Borgo de’ Pazzi and I’ve also published two books: “KARTEN” and “Scontrosa Grazia – Gracefully Aloof”.
I am printing the charts to make this shawl. the “V” symbol on charts A, B, and D indicate that you are to knit into the front and back of the indicated stitch. On chart C, the same “V” symbol says to “slip wyib”. Is this correct? or is this a misprint? The written instructions for Section 4 say to “kfb twice”.
I’m glad you asked!
I took a look and that wyib is NOT correct. I have no idea how that crept in. It should also be a kfb.
I’m so sorry about this! I’ll fix it but if you can account for this when you make it that would be great.
I thoroughly enjoyed knitting this shawl. but I am up to the end and the last two rows have me confused..when I do the ssk followed by a k2tog isn’t that going to tighter up the border and make it ripple..
The next row has you do 3 sts in the one YO, so you’re really creating a decorative border. You should be good (it’s what Valentina did as well) but if you’re not sure how it will work with your yarn, I’d try it out in a swatch and then wash and block it.
Let us know how it works for you?
Elegant and refined shawl,Valentina Cosciani is a fantastic knit designer. Italian talent 100%!
Agreed! She designed a beautiful shawl 🙂
Beautiful pattern and shawl! Is there any chance you could convert the pattern to a PDF and make it downloadable from either your blog or your Ravelry shop? I for one, would love a PDF version! Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful design! <3
I’m so glad you like the pattern!
We have PDFs of all our patterns 🙂 it’s available with the PDF button in the upper right of the pattern.
Let me know if you have any issues with it. Thanks!