Lace shawls don’t have to be worked in lace weight yarn. The chainette construction of this yarn and the loft of alpaca make for a pretty accessory with the femininity of a lacy shawlette but the warmth you need on a chilly day.

Size

Finished shawlette measures 16.5” or 42cm deep with a 44” or 112cm wingspan

Yarn

Valley Yarns Peru (84% baby alpaca/8% merino wool/8% nylon; 109 yards [99 meters]/50g): Color number 07 Silver Lake, 2 balls

We thank Webs for their generous yarn support!

Needles

Size 7.5mm. Note that there is no US equivalent. If using US sizes, a US 11 (8 mm) is the closest.

Notions

4 matching stitch markers – Markers A, darning needle for weaving in ends, you may also wish to use optional 4 further matching stitch markers different from markers A – Markers B

Gauge

14 sts and 20 rows = 4” [10cm] in St st after wet blocking

12 sts and 18 rows = 4” [10cm] in pattern for Chart C after wet blocking

Abbreviations

Please see our standard abbreviations.

pMA – place marker A

slMA – slip marker A

Pattern notes

The shawlette uses two full balls of the suggested yarn when worked to pattern gauge. If you cannot get gauge, or if the balls of yarn you have may be a little underweight, you may wish to have a third ball available just in case.

The pattern is meant for experienced or adventurous intermediate knitters. Each chart only shows one half of each row. You should work all chart rows from right to left across the first half of the shawl and then back from left to right on the second half of the row to create a mirror image.

Charts

Chart A

Chart B

Chart C

Shawl instructions

Garter tab

CO 3 sts. K 6 rows.

Next row: K3, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into first purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into second purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 1 st into third purl ridge along side of tab, yo, pick up and knit 3 sts from cast-on edge (13 sts)

You will now place markers A.

Next row: K3, pMA, pfb, p2, pMA, p1, pMA, p2, pfb, pMA, k3 (15 sts)

Slip all markers as you come to them.

Section A

Row 1: K3, work chart A row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart A row 1 from left to right, k3 (19 sts)

Row 2: K3, work chart A row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart A row 2 from left to right, k3 (21 sts)

Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central st and then from left to right from there to the last marker until all 28 rows of Chart A have been worked. (99 sts)

Section B

Row 1: K3, work chart B row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart B row 1 from left to right, k3 (103 sts)

Row 2: K3, work chart B row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart B row 2 from left to right, k3 (105 sts)

Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central stitch and then from left to right from there to the last marker until all 16 rows of Chart B have been worked. (147 sts)

Section C

Row 1: K3, work chart C row 1 from right to left, k1, work chart C row 1 from left to right, k3 (151 sts)

Row 2: K3, work chart C row 2 from right to left, p1, work chart C row 2 from left to right, k3 (153 sts)

Continue in patt as set, working each row of the chart from right to left up to the central stitch and then from left to right from there to the last marker A until all 20 rows of Chart C have been worked, removing all markers on last row worked. (207 sts)

BO using your preferred stretchy method. I recommend the Russian BO, which is worked as follows.

K2, *sl both sts back to left needle, k2tog, k1; rep from * across row until all sts have been bound off and only 1 st remains, break yarn, draw through final st and pull tight.

Finishing

Soak the work thoroughly in tepid water with a little wool wash. Squeeze (don’t wring) excess water out of the work in a towel if necessary. Lay work flat and block evenly to open up the lace patterns.

Allow to dry completely. Weave in ends. Wear and enjoy!