This cowl applies the technique of mosaic knitting to bulky yarn and large needles for a quick and satisfying project. No previous experience with mosaic knitting is needed. It is worked flat in 8 different mosaic panels and the short ends are grafted together. A reverse stockinette border is added along the long edges. You can choose between a short neckwarmer style and a long version (shown here) or decide on your own size.
Size
8.5” (22 cm) height x 27″ (69 cm) circumference (short version); 8.5” (22 cm) height x 38″ (97 cm) circumference (long version).
Yarn
Valley Yarns Superwash Bulky (100% Extra Fine Merino; 109 yards [99.7 meters]/100 grams); Color A (07, Blue Mist), Color B (21, Gold) and Color C (04, Rust): one ball each.
Thank you to Webs for sponsoring this yarn!
Needles
Size US 10.5 (6.5 mm) 32” circular needles, and any smaller size 32” circular needles (for grafting and picking up stitches for edging)
Notions
Stitch markers; tapestry needle; waste yarn
Gauge
Approx 13 sts and 16 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after blocking.
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
RHS: right hand side (on RS of work)
LHS: left hand side (on RS of work)
R: row
RN: right needle
LN: left needle
Charts 1-3
Charts 4-5
Guidelines for mosaic knitting in stockinette
Each row on the chart indicates 2 rows (knit on RS and purl on WS) which are worked using the same color.
The CO row for the project and the setup row(s) for a panel are always worked in MC (unless specified). These rows are included in written instructions but are not shown on the chart which always starts with the first row in CC.
For odd-numbered rows (RS), work from right to left. The color of the first block on the RHS is knitted and the other color is slipped.
Slip a stitch as if to purl with yarn held to WS of work (wyib on RS and wyif on WS).
For even-numbered rows (WS), you do not need the chart. The sts with the same color as the working yarn are purled, and the other color sts are slipped wyif. One extra edge st is worked (k on RS and p on WS) on either side of the pattern multiples. These edge stitches are shown as separate columns on the chart.
Pick up a new color at the beg of a row from behind the old color. See our tutorial on carrying yarn up the side.
Pm on the first row of each pattern rep for easy row counting.
Stitch gauge varies with each pattern. Row counts include the setup row(s).To achieve a certain length, a panel may end before the pattern rows are complete.
After completing the patt reps for a given panel, you may be instructed to join yarn either on the RS or WS and work a few additional rows. These are needed for a well defined transition between consecutive panels.
Variations
Size: Can be customized as desired.
Color: Although shown in 3 colors, 2 or any number of colors can be used. Since the work can be stopped on any row of a chart, even small amounts of yarn can be used – a great stashbuster.
Reversing the colors on a chart can produce a completely different appearance. The swatches in the photo show the same patterns worked in reverse colors.
Yarn: The project can be worked in finer yarn with more pattern repeats for an intricate “printed” look.
Versatility: The stitch patterns can be used to make panels or squares for larger projects like afghans.
Body
8 original mosaic patterns designed for bulky yarn (low stitch multiples).Work the chart patterns in sequence.
With waste yarn, make a provisional CO of 23 sts (21 for pattern and 2 edge sts).
Panel 1
approx 8” length (48 rows).
Use A for MC and B for CC.
Setup row (WS): with MC A, p all sts.
Turn work. Pm to indicate RS of work. Work chart 1 (3 patt reps and 11 rows of fourth patt rep).
End the last row having just worked a RS row with yarn A. Cut yarn A.
Panel 2
approx 3.5” length (22 rows).
Use C for MC and B for CC.
Setup row (WS): Join MC C, p all sts.
Turn work. Work chart 2 (2 patt reps and 5 rows of third patt rep).
End the last row just having worked a RS row with yarn B. Cut yarn B.
Panel 3
approx 6” length (36 rows).
Use C for MC and A for CC.
Setup row (WS): Work with MC C, p all sts.
Turn work. Work chart 3 (4 patt reps and 3 rows of fifth patt rep).
End the last row just having worked a RS row with yarn C. Cut yarn C.
Panel 4
approx 5.5” length (27 rows).
Use A for MC and B for CC.
Setup row (WS): Join CC B, p all sts (also counts as R2 of chart)
Turn work. Work chart 4, starting first patt rep with R3. Complete first and second patt rep and 4 rows of third patt rep.
End the last row just having worked a WS row with yarn A. Cut yarn B.
Panel 5
approx 4” length (28 rows).
Use A for MC and C for CC.
Setup rows: Join MC A at RHS on RS, k across row. Turn work, p across row. Work chart 5 (2 patt reps). With A, k the next row, turn work, p back across the row. End the last row just having worked a WS row with yarn A. Cut yarn A (if making the short version, leave a long tail for grafting).
Stop now for short version.
Continue with panels 6 to 8 for long version. Skip to Finishing section for short version.
Panel 6
approx 3.5” length (22 rows).
Use B for MC and C for CC.
Setup row (WS): Join MC B. P all sts.
Turn work. Work chart 6 (2 patt reps and 5 rows of third patt rep).
End the last row just having worked a RS row with yarn C. Cut yarn C.
Panel 7
approx 4” length (20 rows)
Use B for MC and A for CC.
Setup row 1 (RS): Join MC B on RHS, k across row.
Second & third setup rows: Join CC A at RHS on RS, k across row. Turn, p across row.
Fourth setup row (WS): With B, p across row.
Turn work. Work chart 7 (2 patt reps). Cut yarn B. Do not cut yarn A.
Panel 8
approx 3.5” length (17 rows)
Use A for MC and C for CC.
First & second setup rows: On RS with MC A, k across row. Turn work, p across row.
Work chart 8 (1 patt rep and 7 rows of second patt rep).
Finishing
(for either size)
To block, pin to size, spray with water to soak, and allow to dry.
Weave in ends along the edges. Remove the provisional CO, slipping the live sts onto a circular needle. With A, graft the short ends together using Kitchener stitch.
Edging
Working on the WS, pass the smaller circular needle through the vertical strand of yarn which runs perpendicular from the horizontal edge into the body, approx one for every two rows. Join yarn B and purl round. To close the first rnd, slip the first st on LN pwise to the RN and lift the first st on RN over it onto the LN (first sts on LN & RN are interchanged). Pm for first st of rnd; marker will sit between the two sts you just interchanged. K the next rnd. BO in knit using a stretchy BO. The decrease BO was used for this design.(Decrease BO: *k2tog tbl, and place resulting st back onto LN. Rep from * until only one st is left on RN.) Cut yarn and pull through last st. Block the edging lightly if desired. See our tutorial on the Decrease BO.
Adjusting cowl length and width
To change the length, simply stop or continue work with any chart (in part or whole) as desired.
If you’re considering adjusting the width, please note that charts 1 to 5 use multiples of 3 sts and charts 6 to 8 use multiples of 7 sts. You may want to choose stitch patterns with only 3 or only 7 stitch multiples to give yourself more flexibility in the width. (If you use charts with multiples of both 3 and 7, you’ll have to increase your cowl by a width of 21 stitches, and that would likely be too wide. Of course, if you’re considering using multiples of 21 in a blanket or shawl, they will work just fine.)
About the Designer: Padma R
About the Designer: Padma RPadma R lives, works and plays in Mumbai. She learned the rudiments of crochet as a child, but promptly forgot. Tunisian crochet followed many years later. Knitting happened mostly because of bulky yarn in her stash, and led to many unintentionally twisted and dropped stitches! Nowadays, she enjoys puzzling over how to use up her accidentally acquired yarn (gifted and otherwise). Her Ravelry user name is PadmaR.
Lovely vibrant design!!!