The Prism Effect is a warm and fun shawl featuring colorful triangles on a dark background with a play of colors that reminds me of light refraction through a prism.
The shawl has a triangular shape obtained with a “twicely sideways” construction
It is worked in consecutive vertical strips made of short row triangles joined as-you-go with no seams. Sounds difficult? Really, it isn’t.
If you have worked short rows before, the only tricky part can be found in picking up sts to work the following strip (but this is done picking up one st in each selvedge, so it’s really simple!).
Choose a neutral or a black(-ish) tone for the background and the most colorful sock yarn you have in your stash and start playing with this fun puzzle!
Size
Finished Size 47.25 x 41” (120 x 104 cm)
Yarn
Ice Yarns Virgin Wool Deluxe (100% Wool; 306 yards [280 meters]/100 grams): Color fnt2-42304 Anthracite Black (MC), 2 balls;
Schachenmayr Regia 6 fadig Color (75% Wool, 25% Nylon/Polyamide; 410 yards [375 meters]/150 grams): Color 06099 bright blue color (CC), 1 ball
Needles
Size US 4 (3.5 mm): straight or 24” circular
Notions
2 markers; stitch holders; waste yarn for provisional cast on; tapestry needle
Gauge
18 sts and 36 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Garter st with MC after wet blocking.
Abbreviations
js: joining stitch; k the last st of the strip together with one from the stitches picked up from the previous strip of the shawl.
Techniques
I-Cord Bind Off:
At beg of row, CO 4 sts with knitted cast on and MC.
*k 3, k2tog (knit the remaining st on needle with one picked up st from the body), slip 4 sts from right needle back to left needle; rep from *
Intarsia in Garter Stitch
When knitting intarsia it’s important to work the intarsia “join”, twisting the yarns every time you change the color to avoid holes.
1) k to color change.
2) place “old” yarn over the “new” yarn.
If you are on a WS row, you should move the old yarn to the front (the WS) to cross it over the “new” yarn.
3) start working with the new yarn, thus “trapping” the old one.
Knitted Cast On
- Knit a stitch as you normally would, but do NOT slip the stitch from left needle
- Place the newly formed stitch from right needle on left needle, without twisting it.
Repeat steps 1-2 until you have the desired number or stitches.
Pick Up Stitches Purlwise
- With WS facing you, pass the needle through both legs of the selvedge stitch from the back (RS) to the front (WS). If the selvedge is worked as instructed below, it will form a nice “chain”, very similar to a bound off edge.
- Wrap the working yarn around needle as if to purl.
- Pull the yarn through the selvedge to the other side of the work (to the RS).
Repeat Steps 1-3 until all needed sts have been picked up.
Provisional (Waste Yarn/String) Cast On
Take a length of waste yarn longer than the length of the finished CO, to comfortably hold all necessary stitches.
1) Make a slip knot with the working yarn and place it on the needle. Hold the needle, the working yarn and the waste yarn tails with your right hand, keeping the waste yarn in front of the working yarn.
Put your left hand around the long strands of both working yarn and waste yarn, with working yarn over the thumb and waste yarn over your index finger.
2) Bring your needle under the working yarn, thus picking up a loop of yarn.
3) Turn over your left hand so to reverse the positions of working yarn and waste yarn. In this way, the working yarn is wrapped under the waste yarn.
4) Bring your needle under the working yarn, thus picking up your third stitch.
Repeat Steps 2-4 until you reach the total number of stitches to cast-on.
Note: another provisional CO method can be used if preferred.
Selvedge (or Selvage) Stitches
(On both the WS and RS) slip the first st purlwise with yarn in front, work in pattern, knit the last st tbl.
Wrap & Turn in Garter stitch:
When working rows which follow short rows in garter stitch, do not work the “wraps” together with the stitches they wrap, but leave them in place.
Pattern Notes
The shawl is started from the bottom side of one edge and worked using short rows to make a large triangle shape.
When the first triangle is finished do NOT break yarn, but instead use the same yarn to pick up and purl all the selvedge stitches along the triangle top.
Cast on 31 new sts with provisional cast on, and knit the first strip, joined to the triangle as an attached border.
This strip is formed by small triangles worked in colorful contrasting yarn (CC) knit with the point toward the large triangle and reversed triangles worked in MC.
When the first strip is finished, repeat the trick to pick up and purl sts again and again, until the entire shawl is worked.
To make the knitting and the shawl more fun and more interesting, two bigger triangles are inserted into the small triangle fabric.
To do this it’s necessary to work a partial strip, return back to the beginning, pick up and purl stitches along the selvedge, cast on 31 sts and work a second strip to the point where the first strip was temporarily ended. Then the big triangle is worked on the stitches from both the rows.
The shawl is finished with an i-cord border.
Note 1: Always slip the markers when you encounter them unless instructed otherwise.
Note 2: Be very careful in correctly working the selvedge stitch once every 2 rows, because it is needed to correctly join the following strip.
Shawl Instructions
Using a provisional CO and MC, CO 62 sts.
Setup Row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl..
Setup Row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Big Triangle
Row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 2 sts before end, w&t.
Row 2 (WS): With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 3: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last wrap , w&t.
Row 4: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 3-4 twice more.
Row 9: With MC, sl1, k23, w&t.
Row 10: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 11: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k19, w&t.
Row 12: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 13: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 14: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 13-14 twice more.
Row 19: With MC, sl1, k50, w&t.
Row 20: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 21: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k46, w&t.
Row 22: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 23: With MC, sl1, k44, w&t.
Row 24: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 25: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k38, w&t.
Row 26: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 27: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 28: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 27-28 twice more.
Row 33: With MC, sl1, k31, w&t.
Row 34: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 35: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k27, w&t.
Row 36: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 37: With MC, sl1, k20, w&t.
Row 38: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 39: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k16, w&t.
Row 40: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 41: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 42: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 41-42 twice more.
Row 47: With MC, sl1, k39, w&t.
Row 48: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 49: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k35, w&t.
Row 50: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 51: With MC, sl1, k53, w&t.
Row 52: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 53: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k49, w&t.
Row 54: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 55: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 56: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 55-56 twice more.
Row 61: With MC, sl1, k35, w&t.
Row 62: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 63: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k31, w&t.
Row 64: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 65: With MC, sl1, k31, w&t.
Row 66: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 67: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k27, w&t.
Row 68: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 69: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 70: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 69-70 twice more.
Row 75: With MC, sl1, k to 4 sts before end, w&t.
Row 76: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 77: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k53, w&t.
Row 78: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 79: With MC, sl1, k29, w&t.
Row 80: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 81: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k25, w&t.
Row 82: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 83: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 84: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 83-84 twice more.
Row 89: With MC, sl1, k48, w&t.
Row 90: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 91: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k45, w&t.
Row 92: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 93: With MC, sl1, k to 3 sts before end, w&t.
Row 94: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 95: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k54, w&t.
Row 96: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 97: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 98: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 97-98 twice more.
Break CC yarn.
Border
With MC, knit 4 complete rows (going from one end to the other), slipping the first st and knitting the last st tbl. Remove the marker, do NOT break MC yarn. Place the 62 live sts on a piece of waste yarn or on a st holder.
1st Strip
Turn the work over with WS facing you.
With MC, pick up and purl 54 sts along the selvedge edge, starting from the last selvedge worked for the border and going back to the first selvedge st made with the Setup Rows, working 1 st in each selvedge (1 st every other row).
With provisional CO and MC, CO 31 new sts.
If you do not want to purl, you can break yarn, CO 31 sts and pick up and knit sts from the selvedge sts on the RS, starting from the Setup Rows and going toward the border. After all the 54 sts have been picked up, break yarn and continue following instructions, working on the 31 new sts. In this way, you can work the whole shawl with no purling, but there will be more ends to weave in.
Work the 31 new sts as an attached border, knitting the last st of the 31 “working” sts together with the next “waiting” st on left needle.
Setup row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k27, js.
Setup row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Small Triangle
Row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k25, w&t.
Row 2 (WS): With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 3: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 4: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 3-4 twice more.
Row 9: With MC, sl1, k17, w&t.
Row 10: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 11: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k13, w&t.
Row 12: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 13: With MC, sl1, k13, w&t.
Row 14: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 15: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k9, w&t.
Row 16: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 17: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 3 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 18: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 17-18 once more.
Row 21: With MC, sl1, k21, w&t.
Row 22: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 23: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k17, w&t.
Row 24: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 25: With MC, sl1, k18, w&t.
Row 26: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 27: With MC, sl1, k to M , change to CC, k14, w&t.
Row 28: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 29: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 30: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 29-30 twice more.
Row 35: With MC, sl1, k24, w&t.
Row 36: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 37: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k20, w&t.
Row 38: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 39: With MC, sl1, k28, w&t.
Row 40: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 41: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k24, w&t.
Row 42: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Row 43: With MC, sl1, k to M, change to CC, k to 4 sts before last w, w&t.
Row 44: With CC, k to M, change to MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 43-44 twice more.
Anatomy of a triangle (a note to help keep track of where you are while knitting the triangles)
With some exceptions, which we will see later, the triangles (both Big and Small) are made by a succession of small areas formed by 4 CC ridges, followed by one “line” formed by a single CC ridge. Both areas and lines are separated by 1 MC ridge.
When you have just worked a “line”, you know you have to work an “area” after the MC ridge. When starting an “area” it’s enough to read the first “stop” (how many sts before w&t), then you have to work 3 more ridges “decreasing” 4 sts every RS row.
The exceptions to this “rule”:
1) The first 2 CC parts in the Big Triangle are both “areas” and not 1 “area” followed by 1 “line”. But after that, the rest of the Triangle is worked as described above.
2) The second “area” in the Small Triangle has only 3 ridges instead of 4 and the “decrease” between the wraps has only 3 sts instead of 4.
Complete Background Repeat
Worked entirely in MC.
Row 1 and all RS rows: With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Row 2 (WS): With MC, k2, w&t.
Row 4: With MC, k to 1 st after w, w&t.
Row 6: With MC, k to 2 sts after w, w&t.
Repeat Rows 3-6 4 more times, then work Rows 3-4 once more (18 rows).
Row 25: With MC, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Row 26: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
To finish the 1st Strip, work another Complete Background Repeat, one more Small Triangle, 2 Complete Background Repeats, another Small Triangle.
Break CC yarn. With MC, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
With MC, sl1 wyb, k to 3 st before end of the “working” sts, RM, k2, k1 tbl.
Leave sts on holder, do NOT break MC yarn.
2nd Strip (1st Part)
Note: The 2nd Strip starts similarly to the first one, picking up sts along the selvedge of the previous work, and working the first two triangles and background repeats.
After the 4th background repeat the work is stopped and sts are placed on holder.
These sts will be used as the point of a big Triangle, and only after its completion, the 2nd Strip is worked to end.
Turn the work over with WS facing you.
With MC, pick up and purl 78 sts along the selvedge, starting from the end and moving toward the beg of the previous Strip, working 1 st in each selvedge (1 st every other row).
Using a provisional CO and MC, CO 31 sts.
Note: It is possible to pick up and knit sts instead of purling them, if preferred. See the Note on the 1st Strip.
Setup row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work 1 Small Triangle, then work a Reduced Background Repeat (below)
Reduced Background Repeat
Row 1 and all RS rows: With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Row 2 (WS): With MC, k2, w&t.
Row 4: With MC, k to 1 st after w, w&t.
Row 6: With MC, k to 2 sts after w, w&t.
Repeat Rows 3-6 4 more times (16 rows).
Row 23: With MC, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Row 24: With MC, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl .
Note: The Reduced Background Repeat is simply a Complete Background Repeat shorter by 1 ridge
Work a Complete Background Repeat, 1 Small Triangle and 2 Complete Background Repeats.
Break CC yarn. Stop here with the first part of the Second Strip.
Do NOT break MC yarn.
3rd Strip (1st Part)
Leave the last 26 “waiting” sts remaining from the sts picked up from the 1st Strip selvedge and the 31 “working” sts on a st holder or scrap yarn.
Turn the work over with WS facing you.
With MC, pick up and purl 51 sts along the selvedge, starting from the end and moving toward the beg of the previous Strip, working 1 st in each selvedge (1 st every other row).
Using a provisional CO and MC, CO 31 sts.
Note: It is possible to pick up and knit sts instead of purling them, if preferred. See the Note on the 1st Strip.
Setup row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work 1 Small Triangle, 1 Reduced Background Repeat, 1 Complete Background Repeat, 1 Small Triangle, 1 Reduced Background Repeat, 1 Complete Background Repeat.
2nd Big Triangle
Do not break yarn.
Place the 31 “working” sts from the 2nd Strip and 26 “waiting” sts from the top of the 1st Strip back on needle; 62 “working” sts and 26 “waiting” sts.
Setup Row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup Row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work a second Big Triangle on the first 62 sts.
2nd Strip (2nd Part)
With MC, k 31 sts and leave them (and the marker) on a st holder and continue working the 2nd Strip (2nd Part).
With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Work 1 Reduced Background Repeat starting from Row 2 (WS), 1 Complete Background Repeat,1 Small Triangle.
Break CC yarn.
With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
With MC, sl1 wyb, k to 3 st before end of the “working” sts, RM, k2, k1 tbl.
Leave sts on holder, do NOT break MC yarn.
3rd Strip (2nd Part)
Turn the work over with WS facing you.
With MC, pick up and purl 26 sts along the selvedge, starting from the end of the 2nd Strip and moving toward the end of the Big Triangle, working 1 st in each selvedge (1 st every other row).
Leave sts on the left needle.
Note: It is possible to pick up and knit sts instead of purling them, if preferred. See the Note on the 1st Strip.
Turn the work over with RS facing.
Place the 31 “working” sts of the 3rd Strip (from the top part of the Big Triangle) on right needle.
Turn the work over again with WS facing. This changes the position of left and right needle.
Pass the last picked up st to left needle (where the 31 “working” sts are).
With MC, k2tog, k1, w&t.
Work 1 Reduced Background Repeat starting from Row 3, then 1 Complete Background Repeat, 1 Small Triangle.
Break CC yarn.
With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
With MC, sl1 wyb, k to 3 st before end of the “working” sts, RM, k2, k1 tbl.
Leave sts on holder, do NOT break MC yarn.
4th Strip (1st Part)
Turn the piece over with WS facing you.
Pick up and purl 26 sts along the edge of the left part of the 3rd Strip, 51 sts along the Big Triangle, 53 sts along the edge of the right part of the 3rd Strip (130 “waiting” sts).
Leave the first 104 waiting sts on holder (26 “waiting” sts remain).
Using a provisional CO and MC, CO 31 sts.
Note: It is possible to pick up and knit sts instead of purling them, if preferred. See the Note on the 1st Strip.
Setup row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work 1 Small Triangle, 1 Reduced Background Repeat, 1 Complete Background Repeat.
Remove marker on the last row. Break CC yarn.
5th Strip (1st Part)
Leave the 31 “working” sts from the 4th Strip on a second holder, turn work over with WS facing you and pick up and purl 26 sts along the 4th Strip edge.
Using a provisional CO and MC, CO 31 sts.
Setup row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work 1 Small Triangle, 1 Reduced Background Repeat, 1 Complete Background Repeat.
Break CC yarn.
Do not remove marker, it is needed for the following Big Triangle.
3rd Big Triangle
Do not break yarn. Place the 31 “working” sts from the 4th Strip back on needle from the holder. 62 “working” sts.
Setup Row 1 (RS): With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Setup Row 2 (WS): With MC, sl1 wyf, k to 1 st before end, k1 tbl.
Work a third Big Triangle.
4th Strip (2nd Part)
With MC, k 31 sts and put them on a holder. Continue working the 2nd part of the 4th Strip using the last 31 sts of the Big Triangle as “working” sts.
With left needle, place the 104 “waiting” sts back on needle from the holder.
With MC, sl1, k2, PM, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
Work 1 Reduced Background Repeat starting from Row 2 (WS), 1 Complete Background Repeat, 1 Small Triangle, * 2 Complete Background Repeats, 1 Small Triangle, repeat from * 2 more times.
Break CC yarn. With MC, sl1, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
With MC, sl1 wyb, k to 3 st before end of the “working” sts, RM, k2, k1 tbl.
Leave sts on holder, do NOT break MC yarn.
5th Strip (2nd Part)
Turn the work over with WS facing you.
Pick up and purl 104 sts along the edge of the left part of the 2nd Part of the 4th Strip. (1 st in each selvedge, 26 over each triangle).
Turn the work over with RS facing.
Place the 31 “working” sts of the 5th Strip (from the top part of the Big Triangle) back on needle.
Turn the work over again with WS facing, pass the first st from right needle to left needle.
With MC, k2tog, k1, w&t.
Work 1 Reduced Background Repeat starting from Row 3, 1 Complete Background Repeat, 1 Small Triangle, * 2 Complete Background Repeats, 1 Small Triangle, repeat from * 2 more times.
Break CC yarn. With MC, k to 1 st before end of the “working” sts, js.
With MC, sl1 wyb, k to 3 st before end of the “working” sts, RM, k2, k1 tbl.
Do NOT break MC yarn.
I-cord Border
Upper Side Border
Work a 4 st i-cord BO on the 31 “working” sts.
*Place the 31 “working” sts of the previous Strip on left needle, removing holder. Work an i-cord BO on these sts.
Repeat from * until you have worked the i-cord BO on all the Strips of the upper side of the shawl.
Place the “working” sts of the first Big Triangle on left needle, removing holder and work an i-cord BO to the end of sts.
Corner
CO 4 sts from the first i-cord st, using knitted CO (8 sts).
Corner Row: K3, K2tog, turn work, leaving last sts unworked, slide sts to the other end of needle.
Repeat Corner Row 3 more times (4 sts)
Bottom Side Border
Unravel the provisional CO for the first Big Triangle and place the sts on left needle.
Work an i-cord BO to the end of sts.
*Unravel the provisional CO for the following Strip and place the sts on left needle. Work an i-cord BO to the end of sts.
Repeat from * until you have worked the i-cord BO on all the Strips of the lower side of the shawl.
BO the i-cord sts.
Finishing
Weave in ends.
Wash and gently block the piece.
About the Designer – Paola Albergamo
About the Designer – Paola AlbergamoPaola Albergamo is a computer programmer who loves to create software algorithms and knitting patterns. And thinks they are both interesting in the same way.
Take a look at her Ravelry designer page.
Thank you so much for sharing this fabulous pattern with us. I would love to knit it, and have downloaded it manually!
Glad you love it!
I’m not usually a shawl fan but this pattern is glorious – modern and jazzy – looking forward to making it. Thank you for sharing the pattern.
you’re so welcome!
Gorgeous Shawl, but almost impossible to download with all the ads, etc. Would rather have paid for the pattern.
Thank you for sharing your talents with us.