Scrap Dealer Mitts

Hooray for spring, and for letting our fingers out into the open again! Scrap Dealer Mitts are a fun and funky design that’s just perfect for using up leftover yarny goodness. 

Scrap Dealer Mitts work for **any gauge**, so dive into your stash and pick out as many colors as you like. With endless possibilities for stripes and colors, you’ll want to knit this pattern again and again. 

In addition to basic knitting skills (including working in the round and picking up stitches), you’ll need to be able to read simple tables. Just pick your yarn weight (anything from light fingering right up to bulky) and your size (from Women’s Small up to Men’s XX Large). Then read the numbers from the table and get knitting.

Sophie is also running a KAL too in her Ravelry group!

Yarn

The pattern is designed for any weight of yarn ranging from light fingering to bulky.

We’ve given the below chart as an approximation for yarn amounts – but the exact amount will depend on how often you join different yarns. Also, like most patterns, we have NOT knit up every size and yarn weight but this is a good estimate of yarn needs.

Needles

Straight and DPNs to suit your yarn weight (see Yarn Amounts Table above)

Notions

Decorative buttons, as desired

I used buttons from McFBk.

McFBk is the work of Brooklyn maker, mother & activist, Lauren McFarland.  Lauren recently returned to working in ceramics when her 3 boys were (finally!) in school full time.  In addition to ceramics, she enjoys many traditional feminine crafts like sewing, drawing, psyanky, cake decorating and knitting.  Having collaborated previously with Sophie McKane on group knitting projects, this presented a new opportunity to incorporate ceramics and knitting.

Check our Lauren’s one-of-a-kind gifts and homewares.

2 stitch markers

Sizes

Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL // Men’s S, M, L, XL, XXL)

To fit hand circumference 6” (6.5”, 7”, 7.5”, 8” // 7.5”, 9”, 10”, 11”, 12”) with 0” ease across back of hand/palm.

Gauge

• For best results, knit a gauge swatch using your chosen yarn and needles, and use this measurement to read the Stitch Count Table below and knit the pattern.
• Alternatively, make a gauge estimate based on your yarn and needle size. Knit the top of hand, measure gauge and adjust as needed.

Abbreviations

Please see our standard abbreviations.

Yarn

• For lighter weight mitts (suitable for spring, autumn or indoor wear) choose yarn in the light fingering to DK range. For warmer mitts choose DK weight or heavier.
• For a uniform look, choose yarns with the same fiber content and ply, for instance, all 8-ply superwash merino.
• You may wish to combine yarns of different weights by holding two strands of lighter weight yarn together. The Doubling Up Table gives guidance on equivalent weights.

Buttonbands/edgings

• The buttonbands and edgings offer further opportunities for customization. Work these in a stitch that will prevent curling at the edges, such as moss stitch, rib or garter stitch.
• When picking up sts to knit edgings, ensure that you have picked up a number that is appropriate for your chosen edge stitch (e.g. for k1p1 rib, pu an even number of sts; for moss st, pu an odd number of sts).

Buttonless mitts

For mitts without buttons, use a provisional cast on and omit buttonbands thusly:

Work Top of Hand to stated length in St st throughout. End Palm at ** and unzip provisional cast on, returning stitches to a spare needle. Graft to live stitches using kitchener stitch.

Mitt Instructions

Right Mitt

Back of Hand

Cast on the number of sts indicated in the Stitch Count table for your yarn weight. Work chosen buttonband for desired width, then work in St st until work measures 3” (3.25”, 3.5”, 3.75”, 4” // 3.75”, 4.5”, 5”, 5.5”, 6”) from start, ending with a k (RS) row.

Thumb Gusset

Select the appropriate number from the Thumb Gusset Marker Table. We will refer to this number as n.

Setup row: P n sts, pm, p to last n sts, pm, p to end.*

Row 1 (RS): K to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, w&t.

Row 2 (WS): P to m, turn.

Row 3: K to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 until there is only one unwrapped st rem.

Next row: K to m, picking up wraps and knitting them with the st, sm, k to end.

Palm

Row 1: P across all sts, rm as you come to them.

Beg with a k row, work in St st until work measures 6” (6.5”, 7”, 7.5”, 8” // 7.5”, 9”, 10”, 11”, 12”) from start, ending with a p (WS) row.**

Work chosen buttonband for desired width. BO all sts.

Left Mitt

Back of Hand/Thumb Gusset

Work as for Right Mitt to *.

Row 1 (RS): K to m, sm, k to m, turn.

Row 2 (WS): P to 1 st before m, w&t.

Row 3: K to m, turn.

Row 4: P to 1 st before wrapped st, w&t.

Rep Rows 3 & 4 until there is only one unwrapped st rem.

Next row: K1, sm, k to end, rejoining gusset with top section of Back of Hand.

Next row: P to end, picking up wraps and purling them with the st.

Palm

Row 1: K across all sts, rm as you come to them.

Beg with a p row, finish as for Right Mitt.

Edgings (both mitts identical)

Overlap buttonbands and pin in place.

Top of Hand

Pu sts around top of hand, picking up two sts for every three rows. Overlap the buttonbands and pu by inserting needle through overlapped buttonbands, pulling yarn through both layers to make the st. Pm, join in the round and work chosen edge stitch for 1”, or desired length. BO loosely.

Cuff

Pick up sts around the bottom of the hand, work cuff for 2-3″, or desired length.

Thumb

Pu sts around thumb opening, picking up two sts for every three rows across straight part of opening, plus 3 extra sts at top of gusset. Pm, join in the round and work chosen edge stitch for 1”, or desired length. BO loosely.

Finishing

Weave in ends, closing gaps at top of thumb gusset as needed. Attach buttons by sewing through both layers of buttonbands. Block if desired.