A pretty, feminine, hat for ushering in the cooler weather, Sweetly is a very slightly long beanie to give a bit more of a fashionable look to a close-fitting hat. It can also be worked as a slightly slouchy/pointy hat ideal for a pompom.
The beautiful stitch pattern is worked with an interesting but uncomplicated maneuver; one to add to the repertoire. No cable needles or special equipment are needed, so this is great travel knitting. And in this gorgeous Eden cottage yarn, it all goes so sweetly!
The stitch can also be worked in two colors to make a charming starred fabric (see pattern notes and pics from the Sweetly Mitts for an example).
Choose a size approx. 10 cm (4 in) less than your actual head size for a snug fit (the stitch pattern pulls in on itself a good deal when not worn, hence whilst this might seem like a lot of negative ease it is only actually about half this amount of negative ease when worn).
4 years- adult small 17 ¼”/44cm
Adult M 19”/48cm
Adult L 20 ½”/52cm
Shown in adult small on a head circ of 21”/53cm
DK / 8 ply
100% superwash Wool
245yds/224 meters to 100 grams
One skein of the suggested yarn is sufficient for all sizes.
4 years- adult small: 145yds/135m
Adult M: 180yds/165m
Adult L: 210yds/190m
Yarns with plenty of drape are recommended if you wish to work a slouchy version. In a firmer yarn the longer version of the hat will give more of a pointed crown, ideal for pompoms.
Size US 6 (4 mm) circular for main pattern
Size US 5 (3.75 mm) circular for ribbing
OR correct needle size to achieve gauge. Pattern assumes magic loop, but you may substitute your preferred method for small circumference knitting when decreasing the crown.
Stitch marker for start of round
25 sts and 31 rounds to 10cm/4in over main stitch pattern. Note this is a very stretchy pattern and gauge measurement is taken on the fabric laid flat and relaxed. Alternatively, gauge can be taken over stockinette at 22 sts and 31 rounds to 10 cm/4in.
Please see our standard abbreviations.
K1 long: Knit into the space under the strand of yarn the two decreases two rounds before (the adjacent decreases will have created an eyelet hole at this point; you are working into this). When knitting the second k1 long in a pattern repeat (there are a pair for every 10 sts on rounds where they occur in the main chart) you will need to turn your right hand needle back into the same hole as you worked the first.
Main Chart Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1; 8 sts.
Rnd 2: K4, p1, k2, p1.
Rnd 3: K4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1; 10 sts.
Rnd 4: K4, p1, k4, p1
Rnd 5: K2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1; 8 sts.
Rnd 6: K2, p1, k4, p1.
Rnd 7: K1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1; 10 sts.
Rnd 8: Repeat round 4.
Decreases Chart Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1; 8 sts.
Rnds 2 – 4: K4, p1, k2, p1.
Rnd 5: K2tog, ssk, p1, k2, p1; 6 sts.
Rnd 6: K2, p1, k2, p1
Rnd 7: K1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k2, p1; 8 sts.
Rnd 8: Repeat round 2.
Rnd 9: K4, p1, k2tog, p1; 7 sts.
Rnds 10 – 11: K4, p1, k1, p1.
Rnd 12: K2tog, ssk, p1, k1, p1; 5 sts.
Rnd 13: K2, p1, k1, p1.
Rnd 14: K1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k1, p1; 7 sts.
Rnd 15: Repeat round 10.
Rnd 16: K4, p1, p2tog; 6 sts.
Rnd 17: K4, p2.
Rnd 18: K2tog, ssk, p2; 4 sts.
Rnd 19: K2, p2tog; 3 sts.
Rnd 20: K1 long, k2, k1 long, p1; 5 sts.
Rnd 21: K3, k2tog; 4 sts.
Rnd 22: K2tog, ssk; 2 sts.
Rnd 23: Knit.
Rnd 24: K2tog; 1 st.
Pattern is worked bottom up in the round and assumes magic loop on circular needles. You may substitute your preferred method of circular knitting and small circumference knitting for the crown decreases. Gauge swatching in the round is recommended.
A two-color version of the pattern can be created by working rows 3 & 7 in a contrast color. Credit for this goes to Raveler MJM.
- CO 110 (120, 130) sts using a needle one size smaller than that with which you achieved gauge. I used the Twisted German Cast On. Watch the video below:
- Place a marker to indicate your start of round and, joining in the round, work ribbing as follows:
*K1, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1* rep 11 (12, 13) times around the hat, every round.
Work until your knitting measures 1”/2.5cm (1”/2.5cm, 1 ¼ “/ 3cm) from the cast on edge.
- Change to your main working needle. Follow the Main Chart or the Written Instructions (both above) and work them 11 (12, 13) times around the circumference of your hat. You will repeat these 8 rounds 4 (5 ,5) times in total OR until your hat measures approximately 5”/12.5cm (5 ¾” /14.5cm, 6”/15cm) from the cast on edge. If necessary, you can work an additional half repeat ending on round 4 but must move your start of round along 5 stitches when starting the crown chart. For a slouchy hat work one additional pattern repeat.
- You will now work the crown decreases following the Decreases Chart or the Written Instructions (both above). Work the 24 rounds once, repeating them 11, (12, 13) times around your hat (stitch counts refer to the count remaining within each pattern repeat).
Note that the last two k1 long stitches (rounds 14 & 20) are worked just one round below instead of two.
- You should now have 11 (12, 13) stitches remaining. Cut your yarn with a long tail and thread through the remaining stitches and to the wrong side of the hat before pulling tight and weaving in your end.
Weave in your remaining ends. Wash according to your yarn band instructions and dry flat or on a hat blocker.
About the Designer: Elizabeth Felgate
Elizabeth Felgate is an independent designer living in a stone cottage in rural Wiltshire with eight walnut trees in the garden.
She likes designing from first principles. Many of her patterns feature custom-designed lace patterns or unusual construction methods. She loves aran weight jumpers and airy lace; but is not averse to chunky lace and lightweight sweaters either.
When not knitting she is a marketing consultant and mother of two.