Matching mitts for the Sweetly Hat, so that you can be sweet from the top of your head to (nearly) the end of your fingertips.
The beautiful stitch pattern is worked with an interesting but uncomplicated maneuver; one to add to the repertoire. No cables needles or special equipment are needed, so this is great travel knitting. And in this gorgeous Eden cottage yarn, it all goes so sweetly!
The stitch can also be worked in two colors to make a charming starred fabric (see pattern notes and pics below for an example).
Size
The pattern is written out for the smallest size; stitches and measurements for the larger sizes are in parenthesis.
XS, to fit hand circumference 7”/16.5cm
S, to fit 7 ½”/18cm
M, to fit 8”/19 cm
L to fit 8 ½”/20.5 cm
Choose your size based on your hand circumference.
Yarn
Oakworth DK in Briar Rose
DK / 8 ply
100% superwash Wool
245yds/224 meters to 100 grams
One skein of the suggested yarn is sufficient for all sizes.
XS: 115yds/105m
S:125yds/115m
M:145yds/135m
L:165yds/155m
Needles
Size US 6 (4 mm) circular for main pattern
Size US 2 ½ (3 mm) circular for cuff ribbing
OR correct needle size to achieve gauge. Pattern assumes magic loop, but you may substitute your preferred method for small circumference knitting.
Notions
Stitch marker for start of round and an additional one to mark back of hand.
Tapestry needle
Gauge
25 sts and 31 rounds to 4”/10cm over main stitch pattern. Note this is a very stretchy pattern and gauge measurement is taken on the fabric laid flat and relaxed. Alternatively, gauge can be taken over stockinette at 22 sts and 31 rounds to 4”/10 cm.
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
K1 long: Knit into the space under the strand of yarn between the two decreases two rounds before (the adjacent decreases will have created an eyelet hole at this point; you are working into this). When knitting the second k1 long in a pattern repeat (there are a pair for every 10 sts on rounds where they occur in the main chart) you will need to turn your right hand needle back into the same hole as you worked the first.
Charts
Main Chart
Written Instructions for Main
Rnd 1: K4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1; 8 sts.
Rnd 2: K4, p1, k2, p1.
Rnd 3: K4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1; 10 sts.
Rnd 4: K4, p1, k4, p1
Rnd 5: K2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1; 8 sts.
Rnd 6: K2, p1, k4, p1.
Rnd 7: K1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1; 10 sts.
Rnd 8: Repeat round 4.
XS Thumb Chart
XS Thumb Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, pfb, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, pfb; 34 sts.
Rnd 2: M1l, k4, m1r, p2, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p2; 36 sts.
Rnd 3: K6, pfb, (p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4) x 3, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, pfb; 46 sts.
Rnd 4: K6, p3, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p3.
Rnd 5: K1, k2tog, ssk, k1, pfb, p2, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 3, k4, p2, pfb; 40 sts.
Rnd 6: K4, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 3, k4, p4.
Rnd 7: K1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k1, p4, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 3, k4, p4; 48 sts.
Rnd 8: K6, p4, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p4.
Rnd 9: M1l, k6, m1r, p4, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, p4; 42 sts.
Rnd 10: K8, p4, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p4.
Rnd 11: K8, p4, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p4; 50 sts.
Rnd 12: K8, p4, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p4.
Rnd 13: K2, k2tog, ssk, k2, p4, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 3, k4, p4; 42 sts.
Rnd 14: K6, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 3, k4, p4.
Rnd 15: (K2, k1 long) x 2, k2, p4, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 3, k4, p4; 50 sts.
Rnd 16: Repeat round 12.
Rnd 17: M1l, k8, m1r, p4, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, p4; 44 sts.
Rnd 18: Put stitch on holders x 10, p4, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p4; 34 sts.
Note that your stitch count will be restored to 42 sts in the next K1 long round.
S Thumb Chart
S Thumb Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, pfb, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, pfb; 34 sts.
Rnd 2: M1l, k4, m1r, p2, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p2; 36 sts.
Rnd 3: K6, pfb, (p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4) x 3, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, pfb; 46 sts.
Rnd 4: K6, p3, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p3.
Rnd 5: K1, k2tog, ssk, k1, pfb, p2, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 3, k4, p2, pfb; 40 sts.
Rnd 6: K4, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 3, k4, p4.
Rnd 7: K1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k1, pfb, p3, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 3, k4, p3, pfb; 50 sts.
Rnd 8: M1l, k6, m1r, p5, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p5; 52 sts.
Rnd 9: K8, p5, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, p5; 44 sts.
Rnd 10: K8, p5, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p5.
Rnd 11: K8, p5, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p5; 52 sts.
Rnd 12: M1l, k8, m1r, p5, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p5; 54 sts.
Rnd 13: K3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p5, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 3, k4, p5; 46 sts.
Rnd 14: K8, p5, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 3, k4, p5.
Rnd 15: K3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k3, p5, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 3, k4, p5; 54 sts.
Rnd 16: K10, p5, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p5.
Rnd 17: K10, p5, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2tog, ssk, p5; 46 sts.
Rnd 18: K10, p5, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k2, p5.
Rnd 19: M1l, k10, m1r, p5, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p5; 56 sts.
Rnd 20: Put stitch on holders x 12, p5, (k4, p1) x 6, k4, p5; 44 sts.
M Thumb Chart
M Thumb Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, pfb, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, pfb; 42 sts.
Rnd 2: M1l, k4, m1r, p2, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p2; 44 sts.
Rnd 3: K6, pfb, (p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4) x 4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, pfb; 56 sts.
Rnd 4: K6, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3.
Rnd 5: K1, k2tog, ssk, k1, p3, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 46 sts.
Rnd 6: K4, p3, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p3.
Rnd 7: K1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k1, p3, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 56 sts.
Rnd 8: M1l, k6, m1r, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3; 58 sts.
Rnd 9: K8, p3, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, p3; 48 sts.
Rnd 10: K8, p3, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p3.
Rnd 11: K8, p3, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p3; 58 sts.
Rnd 12: M1l, k8, m1r, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3; 60 sts.
Rnd 13: K3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p3, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 50 sts.
Rnd 14: K8, p3, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p3.
Rnd 15: K3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k3, p3, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 60 sts.
Rnd 16: K10, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3.
Rnd 17: M1l, k10, m1r, p3, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, p3; 52 sts.
Rnd 18: K12, p3, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p3.
Rnd 19: K12, p3, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p3; 62 sts.
Rnd 20: K12, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3.
Rnd 21: M1l, k4, k2tog, ssk, k4, m1r, p3, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 54 sts.
Rnd 22: Put stitch on holders x 12, p3, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p3; 42 sts.
Note: your stitch count for the hand will be restored to 50 on the next k1 long round. Your thumb stitches will be restored to 14.
L Thumb Chart
L Thumb Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K4, pfb, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, pfb; 42 sts.
Rnd 2: M1l, k4, m1r, p2, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p2; 44 sts.
Rnd 3: K6, pfb, (p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4) x 4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, pfb; 56 sts.
Rnd 4: K6, p3, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p3.
Rnd 5: K1, k2tog, ssk, k1, pfb, p2, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p2, pfb; 48 sts.
Rnd 6: K4, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p4.
Rnd 7: K1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k1, p4, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 4, k4, p4; 58 sts.
Rnd 8: M1l, k6, m1r, p4, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p4; 60 sts.
Rnd 9: K8, p4, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, p4; 50 sts.
Rnd 10: K8, p4, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p4.
Rnd 11: K8, p4, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p4; 60 sts.
Rnd 12: M1l, k8, m1r, p4, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p4; 62 sts.
Rnd 13: K3, k2tog, ssk, k3, p4, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p4; 52 sts.
Rnd 14: K8, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p4.
Rnd 15: K3, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k3, p4, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 4, k4, p4; 62 sts.
Rnd 16: K10, p4, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p4.
Rnd 17: M1l, k10, m1r, p4, (k2tog, ssk, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2tog, ssk, p4; 54 sts.
Rnd 18: K12, p4, (k2, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k2, p4.
Rnd 19: K12, p4, (k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1, k4, p1) x 4, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p4; 64 sts.
Rnd 20: K12, p4, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p4.
Rnd 21: M1l, k4, k2tog, ssk, k4, m1r, p4, (k4, p1, k2tog, ssk, p1) x 4, k4, p4; 56 sts.
Rnd 22: K12, p4, (k4, p1, k2, p1) x 4, k4, p4.
Rnd 23: K5, k1 long, k2, k1 long, k5, p4, (k4, p1, k1 long, k2, k1 long, p1) x 4, k4, p4; 66 sts.
Rnd 24: Put stitch on holders x 14, p4, (k4, p1) x 8, k4, p4; 52 sts.
Pattern Notes
Pattern is worked bottom up in the round and assumes magic loop on circular needles. You may substitute your preferred method of circular knitting. Gauge swatching in the round is recommended.
A two-color version of the pattern can be created by working rows 3 & 7 in a contrast color. Credit for this idea goes to Raveler MJM.
- When joining yarn for the thumbs, leave a long tail that can be used to close up any hole and duplicate stitch any unevenness at this point. As hand and lengths are highly variable it always best to custom fit these if possible. Picking up extra stitches for the thumb (or simply not decreasing away those you are advised to pick up) will allow you to adjust the width of the thumb at will.
Pattern
- CO 40 (40, 50,50) sts using a needle one size smaller than that with which you achieved gauge. I used the German Twisted German cast on. See the video below:
- Place a marker to indicate your start of round and, joining in the round, work ribbing as follows:
*K1, p2, k1, p1, k4, p1* rep 4(4,5,5)
Work until your knitting measures 1in/2.5cm from the cast on edge.
- Still using your smaller needle, repeat the Main Chart or written instruction above for a total of 4 (4, 5, 5) times around the circumference of your mitts. You will repeat these 8 rounds twice OR until your mitten measures approximately 2 ¾”/7cm from the cast on edge. If necessary, or desired, you can work an additional half repeat ending on round 4 but must move your start of round along 5 stitches when starting the instructions for the thumb increases.
- Change to your main working needle. You will now work the increases for the thumb. Follow the instructions above for your size (either the chart or written instructions). Before putting the thumb stitches on hold check the depth of the thumbhole which should be 5.5 (6.5, 7, 7.5)cm / 2 ¼ (2 ½ , 2 ¾ , 3) inches deep (or your own thumb hole measurement). If necessary work a few additional plain rows before placing the thumb stitches on hold.
- Once your thumb increases are complete, continue to work in pattern (purling the stitches that have been created at either end of the row and working the rest of the mitt in the main pattern st) until your mitt measures 7 (7 ¼, 7 ½, 8 ¼) inches or 17.75 (18.5, 19.25, 21.25) cm from the cast on edge or is long as desired minus the final border. Make sure you finish on a row with your full stitch count.
- Change down to your smaller needle and work in p1 x k1tbl rib for ¼” or 0.6cm
Bind off as follows
- Knit two stitches together through the back loop. Transfer the remaining stitch back to your left hand needle.
- Repeat a until you have one stitch remaining. Break your yarn and pull through to secure.
- Using your main working needle, pick up your held thumb stitches and two additional stitches at the point where the thumb meets the hand. Work all stitches in pattern (the extra stitches should be knit) for a few rows until you are on a row with your full stitch count.
- Decrease away the additional picked up stitches. Work in stockinette until your thumb measures 1 (1 ¼ 1 ½ ,1 ½ )” or 2.75 (3.25, 3.5, 3.75) cm, or until you reach the center of your thumb knuckle.
- Work in p1x k1tbl rib for ¼” or 0.6cm.
- Bind off the thumb as for the hand.
- Repeat all instructions to make your second mitten.
Finishing
Weave in your remaining ends and sew up any small hole at the base of the thumb. Wash according to your yarn band instructions and dry flat.
About the Designer: Elizabeth Felgate
Elizabeth Felgate is an independent designer living in a stone cottage in rural Wiltshire with eight walnut trees in the garden.
She likes designing from first principles. Many of her patterns feature custom-designed lace patterns or unusual construction methods. She loves aran weight jumpers and airy lace; but is not averse to chunky lace and lightweight sweaters either.
When not knitting she is a marketing consultant and mother of two.
Sandy
Just finished these! I love how quick they knit up and they’re SO gorgeous! Thanks for the pattern!