Yarn
Madeline Tosh Sport, 100% merino superwash, 1 skein Silverfox
Gauge
24 sts and 36 rows over St st.
Needles
3mm needles
Notions
2 stitch markers
Scrap yarn or 2 stitch holders
Tapestry needle to sew seams
Special abbreviations and sts
Rlip (right lifted increase, purl) – use your right needle to pull the purl stitch one row below the stitch on your left needle up onto your left needle, then purl the new stitch through the back of the loop and slip it off the needle. {see our tutorial on lifted increases}
m1r – lift strand in between the sts with the left needle from the back to front, then knit this stitch normally.
m1l – lift strand in between the sts with the left needle from the front to back, and then knit this stitch through the back of the loop.
B (bobble) β k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 all in the same stitch then pass the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th stitch over the 1st one by one.
Sl1 β slip one stitch purlwise with yarn in front
Sizes: S (M) (L/XL)
Charts
Rosebud 1A and 1B – Size Small
Rosebud 1A and 1B – Size Medium
Rosebud 2
2 x 2 Rib
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k1, *p2, k2* rep to end.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p1, *k2, p2* rep to end.
Rosebud 1A – Size Small
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to end.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 5: Sl1, k2, *yo, ssk, k6* repeat to last 7 sts then yo, ssk, k5
Row 7: Sl1, *k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3* repeat to last 1 sts then knit to end.
Row 9: Sl1, k2(3), *B, k7*. repeat to last 6 sts then B, k6.
Row 11: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 13: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: Sl1, purl to end
Rosebud 1A – Size Medium
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to end.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 5: Sl1, k3, *yo, ssk, k6* repeat to last 2 sts then knit to end.
Row 7: Sl1, k1, *k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3* repeat to last 4 sts then knit to end.
Row 9: Sl1, k3, *B, k7*. repeat to last 2 sts then knit to end.
Row 11: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 13: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: Sl1, purl to end
Rosebud 1B – Size Small
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to end.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 5: Sl1, k5, *yo, ssk, k6* repeat to last 4 sts then yo, ssk, k2.
Row 7: Sl1, k3, *k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3* repeat to last 6 sts then k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k1.
Row 9: Sl1, k5, *B, k7*. repeat to last 4 sts then B, k3.
Row 11: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 13: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: Sl1, purl to end.
Rosebud 1B – Size Medium
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to end.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 5: Sl1, k5, *yo, ssk, k6* repeat to end.
Row 7: Sl1, k3, *k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k3* repeat to last 2 sts then knit to end.
Row 9: Sl1, k5, *B, k7*. repeat to end.
Row 11: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 13: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: Sl1, purl to end.
Rosebud 2
errata added 8/20/16
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, knit to end.
Row 2 (WS) and all WS rows: sl1, purl to end.
Row 3: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 5: Sl1, *k2, yo, ssk, k6* k1.
Row 7: Sl1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5* k1.
Row 9: Sl1, *k2, B, k7* k1.
Row 11: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 13: Sl1, knit to end.
Row 14: Sl1, purl to end.
Right Mitt
Cast on 42(46, 54) sts.
Row 1: Sl1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Follow the 2×2 rib pattern for a total of 8 rows. On the 8th row for size M and L/XL, decrease 2 sts evenly by working a k2tog on the row twice. 42 (44, 52 ) sts
Now for all sizes work 14 rows of Rosebud chart/written instructions 1A (1A, 2) but on the 14th row for size M increase 2 sts by working a RLIP on the 3rd and 22nd sts ; 42(46, 52) sts.
Thumb gusset
Now youβre going to begin working on the thumb gusset sts as follows:
For sizes S and M
Row 1 β Sl1, k0 (k1), *k6, yo, ssk* x2, k5 (6) (top of hand), place marker, knit 20 (22) (palm) to end.
Row 2 and every wrong side row β Sl1, purl to end.
Row 3 – Sl1, k0 (k1), k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, ssk, k4 (5), m, knit to end.
Row 5 – Sl1, k0 (k1), k6, B, k7, B, k6 (7), m, m1r, pm, knit to end.
Row 7 – Sl1, k 21(23), m, m1r, k1, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 9 – Sl1, k 21(23), m, m1r, k3, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 11 – Sl1, k2 (3), *yo, ssk, k6* x2, yo, ssk, k1 (2), m, m1r, k5, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 13 – Sl1, k0 (1), k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k0 (1), m, m1r, k7, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 15 – Sl1, k2 (3), *B, k7* x2, k2 (3) m, m1r, k9, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 17 – Sl1, k 21(23), m, m1r, k11, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 19 – Sl1, k 21(23), m, m1r, k13, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 21 – Sl1, k0 (k1), *k6, yo, ssk* x2, k5 (6), m, m1r, k15, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 22 β Sl1, purl to end. (Stop the gusset here for size S and go on to the thumb instructions)
Row 23 β Sl1, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, m, m1r, k17, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 24 β Sl1, purl to end.
There should be 17 (19) thumb gusset sts between the markers.
For size L/XL
Row 1 β Sl1, work 25 sts in the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions (top of hand), pm, knit (palm) to end. (52 sts)
Row 2 and every wrong side row β Sl1, purl to end.
Row 3 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, knit to end.
Row 5 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, place marker, knit to end.
Row 7 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k1, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 9 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k3, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 11 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k5, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 13 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k7, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 15 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k9, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 17 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k11, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 19 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k13, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 21 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k15, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 23 – Sl1, work 25 sts of the Rosebud chart 2/written instructions, m, m1r, k17, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 24 β Sl1, purl to end.
There should be 19 thumb gusset stitches between the markers. Now you will begin working on the thumb stitches.
Thumb
Now you will begin working on the thumb stitches.
Set up row: Work row 3 (3, 5) of the thumb gusset instructions up until the marker then, without breaking the working yarn, place those 22 (24, 26) sts onto a piece of scrap yarn or a stitch holder and reserve for later. Remove the marker and using a new ball of yarn, Sl1, k16 (18, 18), remove the second marker and place the remaining unworked stitches onto a piece of scrap yarn or a stitch holder and reserve for later.
You will now continue working on the 17 (19, 19) thumb sts in stockinette, making sure to always slip the first stitch, for a total of 4 rows.
Next row (WS) β Sl1, p7 (8, 8), m1, purl to end. [18 (20, 20) sts]
Now work in a 1×1 rib for a total of 4 rows as follows:
Both right and wrong sides β Sl1, *k1, p1* to last stitch then k1.
Cast off loosely in pattern, leaving a tail long enough to sew the thumb seam using a mattress stitch in order to keep the bulk down.
Place held stitches back onto needles, place a marker to separate the two halves and using the unbroken yarn continue knitting the unworked stitches to the end of the row.
Next row (WS)β Sl1, purl to end. [42(46, 52) sts]
Continue working by following Rosebud chart 1A (1A, 2) /written instructions on the first 22 (24, 26) sts and in stockinette on the remaining the sts until you have completed row 12 (12, 14) of the Rosebud charts/written instructions.
Now continue in the rib pattern for 4 (5, 6) rows. Cast off loosely in pattern leaving a long tail to sew the side seam.
To prevent the seams from being too bulky, sew the side and thumb seams using a mattress stitch in order to keep the seams from being too bulky. Weave in ends.
Left Mitt
Work the same as the right mitt and using the Rosebud 1B chart/written instructions, until you have reached the thumb gusset then continue as follows:
Thumb gusset
For sizes S and M:
Row 1 β Sl1, k19 (21) sts (palm side), place marker, k6, yo, ssk, k6, yo, ssk, k6(8) (top of hand).
Row 2 and every wrong side row β Sl1, purl to end.
Row 3 – Sl1, k19 (21) sts, m, k4(3), k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5(7).
Row 5 – Sl1, k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, pm, k6, B, k7, B, k7(9).
Row 7 – Sl1, k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k1, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 9 – Sl1, k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k3, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 11 – Sl1 k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k5, m1l, m, k2, *yo, ssk, k6* x2, yo, ssk, k2(4).
Row 13 – Sl1 k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k7, m1l, m, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3* x2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1(3).
Row 15 – Sl1, k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k9, m1l, m, k2, *B, k7* repeat to last 4(6) sts, knit to end.
Row 17 – Sl1 k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k11, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 19 – Sl1 k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k13, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 21 – Sl1 k19 (21) sts, m, m1r, k15, m1l, m, k6, ssk, k6, yo, ssk, k6(8).
Row 22 β Sl1, purl to end. (Stop the gusset here for size S and go on to the thumb instructions)
Row 23 – Sl1 k21 sts, m, m1r, k17, m1l, m, k4(3), k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5(7).
Row β Sl1, purl to end
There should be 17 (19) thumb gusset sts between the markers.
Now you will begin working on the thumb sts.
For size X/XL:
Row 1 β Sl1, k25 sts (palm), pm, k2, yo, ssk, k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k1* repeat to end (top of hand).
Row 2 and every wrong side row β Sl1, purl to end.
Row 3 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, *k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk* repeat to end.
Row 5 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, place marker, k2, B, k2, *k7, B, k2* repeat to end.
Row 7 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k1, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 9 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k3, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 11 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k5, m1l, m, k5, *k2, yo, ssk, k6* repeat to end.
Row 13 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k7, m1l, m, k5, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5* repeat to end.
Row 15 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k9, m1l, m, k5, *k2, B, k7* repeat to end.
Row 17 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k11, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 19 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k13, m1l, m, knit to end.
Row 21 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k15, m1l, m, k2, yo, ssk, k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k1* repeat to end.
Row 23 – Sl1, k25 sts, m, m1r, k17, m1l, m, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, *k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk* repeat to end.
Row 24 β Sl1, purl to end.
There should be 19 thumb gusset sts between the markers. Now you will begin working on the thumb sts.
Thumb
Set up row: Sl1, k19 (21, 25) sts, without breaking the yarn, place these 20 (22, 26) sts onto a piece of scrap yarn or a stitch holder and reserve for later. Remove the marker and using a new ball of yarn work on the thumb sts, Sl1, k17 (19, 19), remove marker and place the remaining unworked sts onto a piece of scrap yarn or a stitch holder and reserve for later.
Continue working thumb as for the right mitt.
Size S:
Place held sts back onto needles, place a marker to separate the two halves and using the unbroken yarn continue knitting the unworked sts as follows: k4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5.
Size M:
Place held sts back onto needles, place a marker to separate the two halves and using the unbroken yarn continue knitting the unworked sts as follows: k6, B, k7, B, k9.
Sizes X/XL:
Place held sts back onto needles, place a marker to separate the two halves and using the unbroken yarn continue knitting the unworked sts as follows: k2, B, k2, *k7, B, k2* repeat to end.
All sizes:
Next row β Sl1, purl to end. [42 (46, 52) sts]
Continue working in stockinette stitch on the first 22 (24, 26) sts and the Rosebud chart/written instructions 1B (1B, 2) on the second half until you have completed row 12 (12, 14) of the rose bud charts. [42 (46, 52) sts]
Now continue in the rib pattern for 4 (5, 6) rows. Cast off loosely in pattern leaving a long tail to sew the side seam.
To prevent the seams from being too bulky, sew the side and thumb seams using a mattress stitch. Use 1 full stitch on each side. Weave in ends.
About the Designer: Karen Fournier
Karen Fournier is an American living in the northeast of France with her French husband and 2 children.
Formerly enlisted in the USAF she now teaches English as a second language to University students and spends most of her free time knitting and creating designs for Across the Pond (formerly known as Nookie’s Designs). She is an active member of Ravelry where she is known as “nookie” and you can visit her design page here on Ravelry.
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