The tang of a salty breeze coming off the ocean is one of the things I miss most about living on the west coast of British Columbia, and looking over a dock and watching sea grasses move gently in the current is like peering into another world. Zostera features texture and lace that remind of that movement – using a knit/purl stitch, slipped stitches, and lace, this shawl is inspired by those forms locked away under the ocean’s surface.
Size
79” [200 cm] wide x 16.5” [42 cm] in height
Yarn
Knit Picks Palette (100% wool; 634 yards [579 meters]/137 grams): Sea Grass (MC), 2 balls; Oyster Heather (CC), 2 balls
Needles
Size US 2 (2.75 mm): 24” circular
Notions
Tapestry needle; stitch markers (optional); cable needle (optional)
Gauge
25 sts and 37 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking
25 sts and 44 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Reed Texture st after wet blocking
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
1/1 RC (Right Cross) – Slip 1 st to a cable needle and hold at back, knit next stitch on left needle, knit stitch on cable needle.
1/1 LC (Left Cross) – Slip 1 st to a cable needle and hold at front, knit next stitch on left needle, knit stitch on cable needle.
Charts
Chart A
Chart B
updated July 29, 2017
Pattern Notes
Gauge is not imperative for this pattern, but do note that your overall size will increase or decrease depending upon it.
Unless otherwise noted (in slip stitch pattern sections), cut your non-working yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in at the end.
Stitch counts at the end of each section are after the semi-colon.
Instructions
CO 3 sts
Set up
Row 1: sl1k, yo, p to end (4 sts)
Row 2: sl1k, k2tog, k to last st, yo, k1; 4 sts
Row 3: sl1k, yo, *k1, p1* rep from * until 1 st remains, k1; 5 sts
Row 4: sl1p, p2tog, k1, yo, p1; 5 sts
Body
Reed Texture Section
Row 1: Sl1k, yo, p to end; 6 sts
Row 2: Sl1k, k2tog, k to last st, yo, k1; 6 sts
Row 3: Sl1k, yo, *k1, p1* rep from * until 1 st remains, k1; 7 sts
Row 4: Sl1p, p2tog, *k1, p1* rep from * until 2 sts remain, k1, yo, p1; 7 sts
Work rows 1-4 of Reed Texture pattern 37 times.; 79 sts
Garter Stitch Section
Join CC:
Row 1: S1k, yo, k to end; 80 sts
Row 2: Sl1k, k2tog, k to last st, yo, k1; 80 sts
Work rows 1-2 once more; 81 sts
Change to MC:
Work Reed Texture Pattern once.; 83 sts
Change to CC:
Work garter stitch section rows 1-2 twice.; 85 sts
Change to MC:
Work Reed Texture Pattern 3 times.; 91 sts
Change to CC:
Work garter stitch section rows 1-2 twice.; 93 sts
Change to MC:
Work Reed Texture Pattern 7 times.; 107 sts
Slip Stitch Section
Join CC, and leave MC attached, work as follows:
Row 1: Sl1k, yo, k to end; 108 sts
Row 2: Sl1p, p2tog, p to last st, yo, p1; 108 sts
Begin Chart A, working rows 1-12 once (note this is only half the length of the chart), repeating the red highlighted section 16 times per row; 114 sts
Lace Section
Cut MC and begin working Chart B, working rows 1-24 once, repeating the red highlighted portion 9 times per row; 126 sts
Slip Stitch Section
Rejoin MC and work rows 1-12 of Chart A once (note this is only half the length of the chart), repeating the red highlighted portion 19 times.; 132 sts
Modified Reed Texture Section
Cut CC and begin working modified Reed Texture Pattern as follows (noting the slight difference from the first section):
Row 1: Sl1k, yo, p to end.
Row 2: Sl1k, k2tog, k to last st, yo, k1.
Row 3: Sl1k, yo, *k1, p1* rep from * to end.
Row 4: Sl1k, k2tog, *p1, k1* rep from * to last st, yo, p1.
Work rows 1-4 8 more times; 150 sts
Slip Stitch Section
Join CC, and work as follows:
Row 1: Sl1k, yo, k to last 2 sts, k2tog
Row 2: Sl1p, p2tog, p to last st, yo, p1;150 sts
*note, this is the only two rows where you are not increasing your stitch count – this is important to keep all your stitches lining up correctly.
After completing these two rows, work Chart A as before, working rows 1-24 this time, repeating the red highlighted portion 23 times; 162 sts
Lace Section
When you have completed Slip Stitch pattern, cut MC, and work Chart B. Work rows 1-24 twice, repeating the red highlighted section 13 times on the first repeat, and 14 times on the second repeat; 186 sts
Chart A Slip Stitch Section
Join CC, and work Chart A pattern rows 1-24 once, repeating the red highlighted portion 29 times; 198 sts
Modified Reed Texture Section
Cut CC, and work modified reed section, rows 1-4 three more times; 204 sts
Bind Off
Make sure to bind off loosely – this will allow stretch during blocking. If you find yourself binding off too tightly, go up a needle size.
Work as follows:
- CO 2 sts using cable cast on. Sl st back to left hand needle.
- K1, s1, k1. Psso.
- Slip 2 sts on right hand needle back to left hand needle.
Repeat steps 1-3 to last 2 sts. K2togtbl. Draw yarn through last remaining stitch.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, and wet block. Don’t be shy to be aggressive with your blocking – the size of your piece will grow and the lace pattern will open up. If you have blocking wires, these are recommended for this type of shawl.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER: KELLY G
ABOUT THE DESIGNER: KELLY GIn 2001 Kelly taught herself to knit by creating a truly hideous scarf full of dropped stitches and unintentional yarn overs. Eternally stubborn and not to be dissuaded, she worked at it tirelessly until she had the fundamentals down, and never looked back. In 2014 she decided the next great thing for her to master was designing her own patterns, and despite many bumps in the road, her stubbornness again persevered, and her first pattern was released in 2015. To this day, Kelly still has that hideous first scarf she knit.
Kelly can be found online at kellygknits.com and on ravelry as tomatl.
I am a bit confused about the yarn requirement. Knit Picks Palette is a 50 g/, 230 yard cake..
So is the 137 g/ 634 yds the total yarn required?
I can see why 🙁
I checked with Kelly and she said – for the green you only use approx 1.5 balls, and the white about 1.25
I’m really confused about the bind off. It’s probably something super simple but right now my brain isn’t cooperating 🙃
It’s a way to make a stretchy bind off.
I’ll try to break it up and see if that works for you.
> CO 2 sts using cable cast on.
So, just cast on 2 sts with the cable cast on. Those 2 sts will be on the right needle.
> Sl st back to left hand needle.
Move those 2 sts from the right needle to the left needle. Now you have every stitch on the left needle.
> K1, s1, k1. Psso.
So, we’ll:
knit 1
slip 1 (2 are now on the right needle)
knit 1 (3 are now on the right needle)
psso – pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch (all on the right needle. this is just like a regular bind off). (2 sts are now on the right needle)
> Slip 2 sts on right hand needle back to left hand needle.
slip those 2 sts back from the right needle to the left needle.
Now, start again with the cable cast on of 2 sts. Each time you work these instructions you will be binding off ONE stitch, so you’ll have 1 stitch less on the left needle.
Does that help?
I’m following the instructions exactly and my number of stitches is growing. If we are casting on 2 stitches every time through the 3 step repeat, but only passing 1 stitch over, that a net GAIN of one Stitch every time you do those 3 steps. What am I missing?
Sorry about your problem here. Let’s figure it out!
I think you’re missing the slip back to the LN in Step 1. What you’re doing is LOSING 1 stitch each time through. You’re working a picot bind off.
I was at the Old Bus Station wool fibre fest today and didn’t buy the wool for the Zostera Shawl. I thought about it and decided I would buy the wool in the Verdigris and plain natural colour. I can’t find the card, Can you please give me the details where I can buy this wool.
Thanks Mavis
I think you might be in Australia? The yarn is from Knit Picks and you can get it directly from them at https://knitpicks.com.
BUT, I suspect that shipping to Australia might be quite costly. If so, I think you could substitute another fingering (sock) weight yarn that has several plies to it. I’d go for something with at least 4 plies. The Palette yarn comes in a huge number of colors and it’s sold as being great for colorwork knitting.
You can look at the page here https://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Palette_Yarn__D5420132.html.
Does that help you? It’s a nice wool, but I think you should be able to find something locally too.
What the heck does 1/1 RC mean? It’s not in the standard abbreviations
Oh my – you’re correct! I’m so sorry!
I’ve added them now. They stand for Right Cross or Right Cable (I’ve seen it both ways).
I’m surprised it hasn’t been mentioned before, but it might be because they’re common abbreviations and the people tackling the pattern knew it. But now it’s there for everyone 🙂