Naia Shawl

Designed to make the most of a single skein of self-striping sock yarn, this shawl gets its name from the wave-like shape reminiscent of ocean; Naia is a feminine name meaning ‘wave’ or ‘seafoam’.

Finished Size

19.5” / 49.5 cm deep, 64” / 162.5 cm long wingspan

Yarn

Any fingering weight yarn; the original was completed with approximately 400 yards of Must Stash Yarns Perfect Sock-Self Striping (75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon; 440 yards / 100 grams); color Fields of Wildflowers

Gauge

20 sts / 26 rows = 4″ / 10 cm in garter stitch on US 7 / 4.5 mm needle, blocked

Note: Correct gauge is not critical for this project, but your final measurements and yardage requirements may vary if your gauge is different.

Needles

US 7 / 4.50 mm and US 8 / 5.00 mm needles – at least 24″ circulars to accommodate the amount of stitches.

Notions

Stitch markers, tapestry needle

Abbreviations

Please see our standard abbreviations.

Cinch Stitch

(worked on right side over 7 stitches – you never turn the work)

Step 1: Ssk, slip 3 stitches together (as if to k3tog), k2tog. 5 stitches on the right needle.

Step 2: Pass the first stitch on right needle over the following four (the ‘ssk’ stitch over the slipped and the ‘k2tog’ stitches). 4 stitches on the right needle.

Step 3: Return the 4 stitches back to left needle.

Step 4: [K1, yo] three times, k1. 7 stitches on the right needle.

Chart

Shawl Instructions

Garter Stitch Body

With US 7 / 4.50 mm needle CO 5 stitches.

Knit 1 WS row.

Increase rows

Row 1 (RS): K2tog, yo, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k to last 2 sts, ktbl, k1.

Row 3: K2tog, yo, k to end.

Row 4: Sl1, k to last 2 sts, ktbl, k1.

1 stitch increased.

Work Rows 1 – 4 a total of fifty-seven times (228 rows).

62 stitches on the needles.

Decrease rows

Row 1 (RS): K2tog, yo, k to last 5 sts, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k to last 2 sts, ktbl, k1.

Row 3: K2tog, yo, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Row 4: Sl1, k to last 2 sts, ktbl, k1.

2 stitches decreased.

Work Rows 1 – 4 a total of twenty-eight times (112 rows).

6 stitches on the needles.

Knit 1 RS row.

Do not cut yarn.

Note that the border is worked in 2 parts. First you knit the Lace Border and then you knit the Edge Border. By working this in 2 parts, the edge of the lace lays nicely and looks finished.

Lace Border

With the RS facing up, working from right to left, pick up and knit a stitch through every slipped stitch (168 sts), then pick up 6 stitches from the cast on. 180 stitches on the needles (if necessary, adjust your number to get to 180 by picking up fewer or extra stitch/es).

Knit 1 WS row.

Switch to US 8 / 5.00 mm needles and knit 1 right side row.

Do not cut yarn.

CO 13 stitches using twisted loop or knitted cast on.

Knit 1 WS row over these 13 stitches and then begin working the chart on RS.

Work charted lace border until all stitches are worked off the needles as follows:

Right side rows: Work as charted always slipping the first stitch.

Wrong side rows: Slip the first stitch, then join the last lace stitch to body as charted with p2tog tbl.

Bind off these 13 stitches purlwise.

Do not cut yarn.

Edge

With the RS facing up, working from right to left, pick up and knit stitch through every slipped stitch (odd number of stitches needed; if necessary, adjust number by picking up extra stitch).

Knit 1 WS row.

Next row (RS): K1, *yo, k2tog, rep from * to end.

Knit 1 WS row.

Bind off on next RS row as follows:

*K2tog, k1, return stitches to left needle, rep from * to end.

Finishing

Weave in any loose ends.  Block to measurements and shape as shown in the blocking schematic. For easier blocking, thread blocking wires through the yarn overs along the top edge and then pin out the lace points created by yarn overs along the curved bottom edge.  When completely dry, remove pins and trim all yarn tails.

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