Summer Blooms is a single skein, top down, fingering weight, crescent shawl featuring the Estonian single water lily lace pattern.
It’s quite feminine worked up in a pink shade with the beaded bind off. But you could also make it a little less “frou-frou” with a more gentle color and no lace bind off!
It’s a versatile shawl so give it a try!
errata added July 5, 2018 to the written lace instructions but no change to the charted instructions
Size
Size75” (width) x 18” (depth) (190 cm x 244 cm)
Yarn
Eden Cottage Yarns Titus 4ply (75% superwash merino and 25% silk; 436 yards [400 meters]/100 grams): Dianthus, 1 ball
Needles
Sizes US 4 (3.5 mm) and US 6 (4 mm): 32” circular
Notions
Removable stitch markers; tapestry needle or crochet hook to weave in ends, approx 100 beads
Gauge
20 sts and 32 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking.
Abbreviations
Please see our standard abbreviations.
Special Stitches
k4tog – knit 4 sts together
m7 (this is also called a “make 7 from 3” in Estonian knitting) – (k3tog, leave original sts on left-hand needle, yo,) 3 times, k3tog.
mmRn – move marker to the right by n stitches
s3kp – slip 3 sts knitwise, k, then pass slipped st over
Pattern Notes
The shawl begins with the garter tab cast on that’s followed by a stockinette body with a 2-stitch garter edge on each side. When the requisite st count is reached, you knit the lace border. The shawl is finished off with the beaded picot bind off.
The shawl is knit in one size but is customizable to smaller/larger sizes by decreasing or increasing the lace border or stockinette body.
Lace Pattern – Charted
Please note that the chart only shows the center lace panel. The stockinette sides, the garter stitch edges and the yo increases are not included.
Only RS rows are charted. All WS rows are purled except for the garter stitch edges.
chart updated on July 7, 2018 – NO errata, we just updated the symbol for the M7 to be more familiar to people who knit Estonian lace.
Other Techniques
TUTORIAL: Tab Cast On – https://knotions.com/techniques/tutorial-tab-cast/
Knit 1, Yarn Over, Knit 1 into Same Stitch (KYOK): https://remadebyhand.com/resources/kyok/
How to do a 3-7 st increase: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0g-H9A8I4g
Knitted cast on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzVy8fRfOw0
Article on beads: https://www.marblehead.net/amy/shiny/issuespring06/FEATseducedbybeads.html
Tutorial: how much yarn for the bind-off row? https://jenniferdassau.com/2014/04/26/tutorial-how-much-yarn-for-the-bind-off-row/
Move Marker Right: https://remadebyhand.com/resources/mmr/
Beaded Picot Bind Off:
Using the crochet hook: *CO 3 sts using the knitted cast on, k1, place bead, BO 6 sts; rep from * until you have bound off all sts.
Using pre-strung beads: String about 100 beads to a yarn end.
*CO 3 sts using the knitted cast on, place a bead near the right hand needle and k1 with the bead, BO 6 sts; rep from * until you have bound off all sts.
Shawl Instructions
Garter tab
Using smaller needles, CO 3 sts and k 8 rows (4 garter ridges). Rotate work and pick up and knit 4 sts along the side of the rectangle (one for each garter ridge). Rotate work again and pick up and knit 3 sts along the CO edge. You will have 10 sts on the needle.
Stockinette body
Switch to larger needles.
Setup row (WS): K2, pm, p to last 2 sts, pm, k2. (10 sts)
Increase section 1
In this section, you increase 4 sts every RS row. All increases happen on the RS rows only. On the WS row, there are no increases and you will simply purl in between the garter edges.
Row 1 (RS): K2, sm, kyok, k to m, kyok, sm, k2. (4 sts increased)
Row 2 (WS): K2, p to last 2 sts slipping markers, k2.
Do not slip the edge stitch or knit it too tightly as that will make the edges too tight to stretch properly during blocking.
Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have 126 sts on your needles.
Increase section 2
In this section, you increase 4 sts every RS row using a kyok increase and 2 sts every WS row using pfb increase.
Next Row (RS): K2, kyok, k to last 3 sts, kyok, k2. (4 sts increased)
Next Row (WS): K2, pfb, p to last 3 sts, pfb, k2. (2 sts increased)
Rep the above 2 rows until you have 222 sts on your needles.
Next Row (RS): K2, kyok, kfb, k to last 3 sts, kyok, k2. (5 sts increased)
Next Row (WS): K2, pfb, p to last 3 sts, pfb, k2. (2 sts increased)
You now have 229 sts on your needles. Remove all markers.
Lace section
The lace pattern is worked on the RS rows only. On the WS row, you simply continue the garter edges (2 sts on each side), purl the purl stitches and yarnovers. On Row 1 of the lace section (just the first time), place markers to mark the beginning (mB) and end (mE) of the lace pattern. You will place additional markers to mark each lace repeat.
If you are comfortable reading your lace knitting, you can avoid placing additional markers for the lace repeats. Also, it would help to weigh your work before you begin the lace section and after you knit the first 14 or 28 rows, to see how much yarn you use for a half or full lace repeat. That way, if you have less or more yarn, you will know if you must stop and proceed with the bind off, or if you can knit another half or full repeat.
The instructions within the square brackets must be worked 13 times.
Begin the lace pattern as written below or use the chart with these instructions:
Chart RS Rows: K2, yo, work chart, yo, k2.
Chart WS Rows:K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Written Directions for Lace Section
errata added July 5, 2018
Row 1 (RS): K2, yo, pmB, k6, k2tog, yo, pm, [k1, yo, ssk, k11, k2tog, yo, pm], k1, yo, ssk, k6, pmE, yo, k2.
Row 2 and all even rows unless specified: K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 3: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, sm, [k2, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, k1, sm], k2, yo, ssk, k5, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 5: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k4, k2tog, yo, k2tog, sm, [k1, ssk, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1, sm], k1, ssk, yo, ssk, k4, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 7: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, mmR1, [m7, k1, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, mmR1], m7, k1, yo, ssk, k3, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 8: K2, p to mB, smB, [p to 3 sts before m, mmR3], p to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 9: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, sm, [k2, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, sm], k2, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, k2, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 11: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k1, k2tog, yo, k4tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, sm, [k2, yo, k1, yo, s3kp, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, sm], k2, yo, k1, yo, s3kp, yo, ssk, k1, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 13: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, mmR1, [cdd, yo, k5, yo, cdd, yo, k5, yo, mmR1], cdd, yo, k5, yo, ssk, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 15: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k1, yo, ssk, k5, sm, [k6, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k5, sm], k6, k2tog, yo, k1, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 17: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k2, yo, ssk, k4, sm, [k5, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, sm], k5, k2tog, yo, k2, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 19: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k3, yo, ssk, k3, sm, [k4, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, ssk, k3, sm], k4, k2tog, yo, k3, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 21: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k4, yo, ssk, k2, sm, [k3, k2tog, yo, k1, m7, k1, yo, ssk, k2, sm], k3, k2tog, yo, k4, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 23: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k5, yo, ssk, k1, sm, [k2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, yo, ssk, k1, sm], k2, k2tog, yo, k5, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 25: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k6, yo, ssk, sm, [k1, k2tog, yo, k4tog, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo, s3kp, yo, ssk, sm], k1, k2tog, yo, k6, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 27: K2, yo, k to mB, smB, k7, yo, mmR1, [cdd, yo, k5, yo, cdd, yo, k5, yo, mmR1], cdd, yo, k7, smE, k to last 2 sts, yo, k2.
Row 28: K2, [p to 1st before m, mmR1], p to last 2 sts, k2.
257 sts on needles
If you anticipate running out of yarn, you can end the lace section now at Row 28 and proceed with the edge and bind off.
Rows 29-42: Rep Rows 1-14. 271 sts on needles
Edge and Bind Off
Remove all markers. Knit 2 rows.
BO all sts using the beaded picot BO technique. Cut yarn and pull cut end through the last st to fasten off.
Adding beads is optional. You can choose to do a simple picot bind off.
For the beaded picot bind off, you will need about 7g or about 6-7 times the length of yarn used per row. If you are running out of yarn, you can either use a contrast yarn for the BO or, you can use any other stretchy bind off method, instead of the picot bind off.
Finishing
Wet block the finished shawl stretching the stockinette section as mildly or aggressively as you like. Gently stretch and pin out the picots evenly.
About the Designer: Jaya
About the Designer: JayaJayalakshmi (aka Jaya) is a full time mom to twin girls. In the little precious “me time” that she gets, she packs in some knitting.
Her personal design philosophy is to create quick, simple, preferably seamless yet elegant knits that are as fun to knit as they are comfortable to wear.
Her Ravelry ID is jayashankar.
Look with my shawl???
Sure! Post a pic of it. Just make sure you spread out things so I can really see.
hello, can you explain row 21 to me, my stitches do not match the charter, I have 16 stitches between each marker. k3, k2tog, yo, k1, m7, k1, yo, ssk, k2, sm. I have 2 extra stitches ??
Summer bloom shawl
I’m not sure where you’re getting that you have 2 extra stitches between each marker.
When you start this row, you should have 15 between each marker. After you knit this row, you should have 18 between each marker.
Can you write Row 21, maybe there was a correction with the version I have?
The thing you wrote was exactly correct and I actually checked that against the chart.
Hi. I’m about 80 stitches into this project and it looks like I will be knitting a big triangle until I get to the lace pattern. This is different than what the pictures show. Is this correct?
i’m actually not sure what you mean. it’s a top-down shawl, so the first part is just stockinette and it WILL look like a big triangle.
then, you add in the lace toward the end.
here’s a link to the projects in Ravelry https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/summer-blooms-shawl-3/people
one thing that’s VERY important (i’m only mentioning it because i don’t know your experiences), but with a top-down crescent, it’s very important that it’s wet-blocked and that you limit the block in the middle by blocking and pulling as needed. you’ll see both types in the pictures.
Beautiful pattern. I especially like the suggestions/comments in the purple boxes. Adding tutorials is a stroke of genius. Looking forward to this project – now #1 in my Ravelry queue.
you’re so very welcome!
Thank you, Maureen! Can’t wait to see your project 🙂